BT Forum

I'm on the other side of the state, but here is some free buying advice. Take it for what it's worth. Hopefully someone can point you to a good LBS, because that is one of the most important factors in buying a bike.

You need to buy a bike that fits. Without being fitted first, it's difficult to tell what bike will be the best one for you. It can be really hard to tell the difference between bikes without being properly fitted first, as you're obviously going to go with the one that 'feels best.' A reputable bike shop will get your measurements and tell you what bikes will work for you.

At $1500 you're looking at a higher end aluminum bike with a carbon fork, or a lower end carbon bike. People will swear by carbon (both my bikes are carbon) but honestly I'd rather get better components and aluminum than entry level carbon. Sram Rival or Shimano 105 would be great components. See if you can get a 2011 leftover, not much will likely have changed except the price. Pretty soon they will be into 2013 models and the same applies.

You're also going to need pedals, helmet, shoes, repair kit, gloves, etc. Make sure you factor that into your total budget. A quick fit will usually come with the bike, a professional fit can be anywhere from $100-$500, depending on the systems they use.

I'm not from your area of PA either, but I can give you a couple of pointers.  You don't have $1500 for a bike and don't tell the shops how much you have to spend because they want you to spend it all.  Shoes, pedal, helmet, gloves, spare tubes, pump, repair kit/seat bag will cost you about $300. So you have about 1200 for a bike.  You can get a good aluminum bike for that, and there is nothing wrong with Al bikes. My road bike is Aluminum and I ride circles around most people on the road.

Plan on taking at least 4 to 8 weeks of looking before you buy. Try to visit at least 3 or 4 shops before you buy.  You may go back and buy the first bike you saw at the first shop but at least you will be an informed consumer and hopefully learn a lot along the way. You should also learn what shop you want to do business with in the future. I would say you should ride at least 3 or 4 different bikes before buying as well. Being new you may not be able to feel the differance, but then again you might.  I mean when I say "feel", you may have no idea why but one bike might just feel more comfortable or feel faster or feel more stable.

Good luck.

I'm not from your area of PA either, but I can give you a couple of pointers.  You don't have $1500 for a bike and don't tell the shops how much you have to spend because they want you to spend it all.  Shoes, pedal, helmet, gloves, spare tubes, pump, repair kit/seat bag will cost you about $300. So you have about 1200 for a bike.  You can get a good aluminum bike for that, and there is nothing wrong with Al bikes. My road bike is Aluminum and I ride circles around most people on the road.

Plan on taking at least 4 to 8 weeks of looking before you buy. Try to visit at least 3 or 4 shops before you buy.  You may go back and buy the first bike you saw at the first shop but at least you will be an informed consumer and hopefully learn a lot along the way. You should also learn what shop you want to do business with in the future. I would say you should ride at least 3 or 4 different bikes before buying as well. Being new you may not be able to feel the differance, but then again you might.  I mean when I say "feel", you may have no idea why but one bike might just feel more comfortable or feel faster or feel more stable.

Good luck.

What's up jarhead!  Good to see a fellow Marine on this forum.

You've gotten some great advice already.  Based on your choices, I'd say try shop #2 and #4.  Visit both and see what they recommend.  As everyone has mentioned, fit is critical and improper fit will hamper training at some point.  There are folks who preach that you should get a fit first and then start shopping bikes.  I haven't ever done that, but I can understand their logic.  Buying a bike and then trying to dial in fit can be very difficult.  Sure, you can change components that get you closer to optimal fit, but that will cost too.

Your lack of experience could hamper your ability to determine differences, but if you give the bikes a long enough test ride (30 minutes or more), I think you'll find a winner.  Gotta ride a few different bikes to have something to compare each with though.

Based on your post, one could infer that you officiated USAC races in the past.  Just curious if I'm reading this wrong.  I hope so, because I assumed that anyone officiating a race would have more than 6 weeks riding experience... 

Semper Fi!

Yea, the saddle thing.  I've been through 5 or 6 saddles so far.  Right now, I'm on a Cobb v-flow plus, but I'm not sure I've found my perfect match.  It's good for about 25 miles and then the discomfort arrives.

Good thing is the classified forum is a great place to buy/sell/trade.  I've been able to grab most of my saddles this way.  Glad to hear about your "new" used bike and good luck with the saddle search.

Hey there - sorry I took so long to get to this thread - but it would have not made much difference.

I think you made a wise choice with Marty's. They are the first place in the area that I heard about fit, when I went looking. The guy at dutch wheelmen would roll his eyes at the question, as he's a very old school roadie and says he doesn't believe in the "scientific fit." Still a good shop I am sure, and they spent time with me doing some apparently unscientific fitting that ended with a simple stem purchase.

No, you are reading that right.  I am a VERY experienced motorcyclist and MSF RiderCoach who got "drafted" into marshaling at the Tour de'Toona.  Some of the officials there talked me into getting an official's license because they are usually short on motors.  So I was a motor official for USAC for 6 seasons, and I've motored at a couple of USAT races with the official riding behind me.