How to remove and install cranks. A little pictorial "How To" for everyone! (Page 2)

This plate gizmo; part 4 in the diagram from shimano.com. I had to get that out of the slide side by lifting it from the two 1/2's of the arm before I could pull the crank. I dunno if it's unique to Ultegra or mmmmy generation of Ultegra. Just curious that the DA didn't seem to have it.





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Ultegra.JPG (19KB - 39 downloads)

Just went down and checked, the DA didn't have that.

Looks like I need to upgrade and drop that 100mg of useless weight!

Excellent tutorial. Thanks. Well done. Should be an article.

Yes, write an article. Write a full series for all the other parts on your bike!

I will surely think of those pictures with your finger pointing next time I remove my pedals or BB. That will save me the 30 seconds it always takes me to figure out which way to go (30s for each side that is) at still get it wrong ...

very nice. thanks for putting that together. extremely valuable!

I know this post has been praised before, but this is simply an awesome pictorial on crank replacement.  Although I'm no triathlete, I'm back into cycling after about a 15 year hiatus and have been reading thru many forums for information on various topics but came up a little short when looking for some quality information on some crank issues I'm having.  A Google search pointed me here and I think I've found my new go-to forum for just about anything cycling related.

Many thanks Daremo for taking the time to put this together and thanks to many others who have posted some great informtion throughout this forum.

Happy Memorial Day!!!

Thank you!!

Nice tutorial!

I gotta ask, isn't there something lighter then a thompson seat post?

And I agree, phil wood grease is the best stuff out there.

Yes, but not something I'd trust ........ The Elite cut is still only around 170-ish. which is pretty damn good and bulletproof.  There are other things I could get lighter, but not without risking breakage.  I went through that with my GT Edge custom frame that I had done back in the day.  Got it so light (for the time - steel frame complete bike as a 60cm came in at 19.5 at it's lightest in the mid-90's) that I started breaking stuff in races.  So I had to beef things up a bit.

I'm pushing the envelope a little with the Scott now as I'm riding X1 Ti pedals which are rated to around 185 lbs and I'm 170 - 175 on average.  With the oomph I have climbing and in sprints I don't need stuff that might break.

The real question is.. Do you even ride the bike?

All the time my friend .... all the time.  In fact I rode it yesterday and then did the exact same route today on the TT bike to compare.  The TT bike is that b-stard child that almost never gets ridden!

And since this thread began I have put on SRAM Red shifters and dérailleurs, the Ti pedals and Zipp Ti skewers which puts her down to 14.09 lbs.  Once I get some real wheels (tubulars) I'll be down close to 13 even!!  Completely ridable and bombproof.  She ain't no trailer queen!

I owe a belated thanks for this thread too.

It was very helpful when I changed cranks recently - easier to follow even than professional online resources like parktool etc.  So... thanks!

Smart man. I feel the same way about Thompson posts. There is not other seat post worth buying.

Edited by graceful_dave 2009-05-25 4:29 AM

Excellent tutorial!

Phil Wood is great grease, but there's one better: Red Line CV2 with Moly. Try it some time, you may never go back.

I'm just bumping this up to say thank you.. I'm doing some wrenching on the bike tonight and it's really great when I can do a quick search on here and refresh my memory on things... I even have "Zinn's" book,  and this is some great quality stuff


thanks
Rick

That was better than some of the books I've seen!