New bike question.

This is tough question to answer but most people here would suggest you head to your Local Bike Shop (LBS) and read them exactly what you wrote. They will let you test ride a couple of options.

You are likely to find some great deals on some year end close-outs. Resist the temptation to buy used (ebay, etc), as a self admitted Noob you will likely need the support of the local shop for tune-ups, sizing, etc. You can get a nice, comfortable, 'entry-level' bike for 1K, but as for brands that depends on what feels comfortable for you.

I can only agree with that advise... yes, you might be able to save a couple of $ (at most) by shopping online, but at the local bike store, you are paying not only for the bike but also for their advise. Try to talk to some local cyclists/duathletes/triathletes and ask them whom they recommend in your area. Go there and tell them what you are looking for and that you will trust their advise because you have been recommended by "so-and-so". Local bike stores (LBS) live and die by word of mouth, so you will get very good service as they want you to recommend them down the road as well. You also want to ask the locals if this person can do bike fittings, as even if you decide not to do one (which to me is the best $100-250 you can possibly spend, but it will significantly reduce your overall bike budget), you at least know that the person you're talking to, can recommend a bike that will work for you, not only sell you a bike on the floor that if lucky, you can fit on... there's a big difference between fitting you to a bike (which is ideally what you want and can get when you go for a bike fit before buying anything) rather than trying to fit a bike to you...

Don't expect to get much of a discount (except for end of year deals, but not additional to what the sticker says), but you can bargin for discounts on the extras, such as shoes, pedals, water bottle, pair of cycling shorts, shirts, socks, helmet, etc. You get the idea.... and always ask what about service and tune up... quite often they'll thrown in your first tune up or free service for a year or something like that.... it only costs them the time and maybe some grease. Parts probably won't be included in free service or tune up.

thanks for the suggestions so far!

To me the most important parts are the components.

A few misconceptions:

1. "More gears are better". In reality a double up front is lighter and easier to keep in tune than a triple.

2. "Carbon is the best frame material". A good aluminum frame can be better than a cheap carbon frame.

3. "Hybrids are good all around bikes". Hybrids make poor mountain bikes and poor road bikes, so you can get the worst of both in 1 bike.

I would look for at least Shimano 105 derailers (or ultegra, and dura-ace) and avoid Tiagra, Sora. I would get a double up front, 20 speed overall. If you are only planning to use it  for triathlons, I would get tri-specific geometry. If you plan to use it for long group rides I would look at a compact geometry and consider clip on aero bars

I actually disagree with this philosophy.  If you live in a hilly area or are doing hilly races, the triple can be a lifesaver.  The weight difference is not that significant, especially as a new rider.  I feel that anything that is going to increase the enjoyment of the ride will help keep that person in the sport longer.  If you're looking at the possibility of walking up hills, or standing up and mashing up every hill, getting a triple crank is worth it.  I've never had an issue with tuning my front der. on any of my bikes.  Once they get set up properly, I don't touch them.  The rear der., yes, that needs retuning after swapping out wheels or cassettes, but not the front.

A compact crank (50-34) can be a good compromise if the OP is worried about hills but wants to run a double up front.

I think the most important thing is that the OP needs to go into their LBS and start asking questions.  If any of the comments about derailleurs (front or rear) don't make sense, then ask someone to explain gearing and why to pick one set up over the other.  Just because a bike comes standard with an 11-23 doesn't mean that the shop won't swap out to a 12-27 if you ask!

Winter seems to be the better time to shop for bikes as the local stores start clearing out inventory to make room for next season's products.  Locally, it also seems like the shops have fewer people in them, so I'm more likely to get more one-on-one time with an employee to get my questions answered. 

Definitely check out your local bike shop to see what brands you like. For a thou, you can definitely find something nice used. IMO, focus on a good frame. The components can be upgraded later, if you feel the need. For instance, an older Guru Cron'alu can be had for like 1500 complete.

It all depends on what you plan to do... if you plan do buy a bike and stick to that for a while, get the best frame (and that means the best FITTING frame) you can. There's nothing magical about carbon fiber (yes, it can be light, yes, it can be stiff, yes it can be compliant), just like there's nothing magical about aluminum or titanium. You may even want to focus away from carbon, just as many times an aluminum frame can offer a superior price. But, buy nothing that doesn't fit you!

As far as components... it needs to be function. If you live in an area with lots of hills, you may want to have a triple or a compact. If you live in the flattest parts of Florida, a standard 53/39 will do just fine. When you ride, think about what you will be moving the most, and that is most likely the rear derailleur, so try to get at least Shimano 105 (better would be Ultegra, and most expensive, but very little additional benefit, Dura-Ace). For the front derailleur, you would like 105, but Sora would be function.. it's inexpensive and easy to change down the road. For wheels, you're not getting a pair of race wheels in this price point (they can easily go for $1000's just by themselves), but you should get a pair of very functional, sturdy wheels. If you live on rough road (and maybe a bit more built), then look for something like 28-32 rear spokes and 24-28 front. If you have nicer road and a more light build, 20-24 for the rear and 16-20 for the front. The nice thing about buying a complete package bike from one of the major brands is that they quite often buy in such large volumes that you get a decent component package on the bike. Trek uses Bontrager, which in general give good performace package for not too much money.

Most likely, you will need to buy your own pedals, and kind of expect that not too far down the road, you will want to swap out the saddle. The saddle is probably the most personal part of the entire bike and unfortunately, there's not much else that can be done, but to talk to other people and see what they are using and then try for yourself...

For $1000, you should be able to get a very good bike that with only small upgrades down the road can service you for years.

Taking a look at what you have stated, here is my advise.

Go to at least 2 or 3 Local Bike Shops, talk to them and see what they suggest. Do not impulse buy!  Each one will probably take a couple of quick measurements and suggest a size. If they are all honest they will hear the same size from the different shops. However a there are a lot of shops that will take the opportunity to get rid of some inventory, ie sell you a 56cm bike when you should be on a 52cm bike.  I've heard plenty of  these stories! A bike fitted to you is the most important thing.

A lot of bikes will come standard with a 53/39 gearing on the crank and the cassette will be 11/23 or 12/25.  These are just typically what I see a lot of.  With someone new to cycling I would suggest that they start with a cassette that is a 12/25 or 12/27.  As for the crank there is nothing wrong with going for the triple esspecially if you live in a hilly area. If it's a double and your in a hilly area you may want to consider a compact crank which gives you a 50/34.
For components the 105's are solid and will last a long time, don't worry about Ultegra's and Dura Ace you don't need them.  Don't get the Sora components, but the Tiagras are not as bad as people say.  I actually have Tiagra components on one of my bikes and they have held up to several thousand miles without a problem.

Let's get real  for $1000 your not buying a Carbon bike. Don't worry about it there is nothing wrong with an Aluminum bike. Most Al bikes these days are coming with a Carbon fork which helps smooth out the ride. As for type of bike; since this will be your only one I would suggest you buy a road bike instead of a tri bike.  Road bikes are more versital and handle a little better. Almost everyone that has a tribike has a road bike as well. They still use the road bike for group rides and tours.

I don't really Felt have an opinion about the subject Felt but I believe you should get the brand of bike Felt that meets your budget Felt, provides excellent Felt performance and appeals to your asthetic preferences Felt.