Aero Wheels versus Light Wheels

the aero wheels are going to win hands down.

Aero trumps weight in almost all situations (when it comes to speed).

Unless you are doing an uphill, point to point time trial with an average of >5% grade, then aero is going to win everytime.

Shane

And would 1/2 pound really make that big of a difference?

Aero trumps weight.

Unless you are doing a race with lots of accelerations (which a triathlon bike leg shouldn't have), then rotational weight can be ignored.

Shane

You're welcome!

I think it's also concensus that a rear disc cover is an inexpensive way to go aero??? Correct???

I've also heard aero is tough in cross winds...

Is there a wind MPH cut-off that its time to take the cover off or even use less aero wheels???

correct



can be sometimes.  usually not an issue



In my mind, if it's not too windy to ride then it's not to windy to ride with aero wheels.  But, at any rate, the front wheel tends to have a much bigger impact on handling than the rear wheel so the disc would be the last thing I removed.

So why do tri people even buy the smaller aero wheels?

Assuming cost is close, would there be any reason NOT to buy the Flashpoint 80s over the 40s or 60s?

http://www.flash-pointracing.com/fp40
http://www.flash-pointracing.com/fp60
http://www.flash-pointracing.com/fp80

Yeah, how much do you weight? I'm 215 and my lard butt can deal with 80s rather well but a friend of mine is all of 110 soaking wet and she has 40mm deep wheels because that's all she can deal with in just about any crosswind. A lot of people just plain don't want to deal with a squirrely front wheel so they get deeper rear tire and shallower front.

To add to this, a disc can actually improve handling as it moves the centre of pressure further back.

Shane

So rear dics cover in back (on race day) unless I'm riding  to see the wizard of oz...  I'm assuming its cool to just put that cover over my stock wheel which I use for training... ( bonterager aero select)

Am I fine staying with the bonterager aero select on front ...???   or should I try to do better up front???  Is there a combatibility issue with a disc cover and stock wheels??

(not a big spender or podium chaser) Just looking for a soild set-up and inexpensive upgrades...(like the aero helmet)

I have the same concerns regarding using a wheel cover on somewhat aero wheels, which are very light.  I have American Classic sprint 350s, which although they are not super aero or deep they are around 35mm deep and very light.  Sounds like going to a wheel cover is the way to go even though this will add significant rotational weight, wheel cover adds around 400 grams if I remember correctly.  Seems like there must be a tipping point somewhere depending on the wheel profile and the added weight versus aero benefit.  Maybe I'm missing something?

Greg

What would any of you reccomend for a decent aero wheel set in the $1000.00 or below range?

I would definitely look at adding a cover; the any weight penalty (which is negligible for a tri or TT) will be offset by the aero gains.

Shane

Assuming you have a decent training wheel set, I would get a cover for the rear and either a deep front wheel (like a Flashpoint 80 or SRAM 80) or trispoke (Hed3).

Shane

Thousand dollar aero .... hmmm I'll hit that.Here are three great options (in my opinion) for aero wheels in one-grand range....

Easton EC70 38mm - $1,083 no tax and free shipping
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26442
(I have not ridden these but have Easton wheels on my mountain bike and love them. These are not as aero as a deeper rim but very sturdy.)

Neuvation All Carbon 50 mm - $950 and generous damage replacement option
http://www.neuvationcycling.com/product56.html 
(I have not ridden these but I do have Neuvation M Aero's on my road bike and have been very pleased with them... I have well over a thousand road miles on them and even more trainer miles. Many people rave about Neuvation's customer service and if you email them, the owner will probably email you back).

And my recommendation if you are spending a little more money: Reynolds Strike, Assaults, or Attacks in 66, 46, or 32 mm depth for about $1400 retail but widely available for about $1250.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/product-components/2010-reynolds-assault-full-carbon-clincher-wheelset-4630.1994.0.html   

I have not ridden these, but I own a very similar wheel, the Reynolds DV3K clincher on my tri-bike, and they are awesome ... I have about 600 miles on my DV3K's and ride them everytime I take my bike out.  DV3K's are similar to these wheels above except DV3K's come with DT Swiss 240 hubs instead of Reynolds OEM hubs. Here's an excerpt from Competive Cyclist: "What is the world coming to when there are budget-oriented full carbon clinchers that are deep, fast and durable enough to be ridden as a training wheel? Like the Reynolds Attack, the Reynolds Assault is a value-minded full-carbon-rimmed clincher wheelset. The layup of the carbon is a bit simpler and heavier than the similar Reynolds DV46C. The hubs are not as deluxe, and the skewers weigh a few extra grams."

But, as above mentioned ... a lower cost option is to make a fast and durable set with a good training rim (Neuvation R28 Aero4 for $185 for plus a cover on the rear for $100) and deep carbon clincher on the front (like a Neuvation C50 for $450) .... that's a pretty sweet set-up that runs under 2000 grams for $750, and will probably be nearly bomb-proof. 

Edited by jsselle 2010-02-13 9:16 AM






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I got a set of HED Jet 60's for right around $1k.

Yes, aero trumps weight.

But if you get a high quality set of carbon aero wheels, then they will more than likely STILL weigh less than your standard box clinchers.  And if you go tubular it will be significantly less.

But you've got to pay to play.