Wheel Confusion
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Moderators: k9car363, alicefoeller | Reply |
2013-07-14 3:16 PM |
Member 24 OKC | Subject: Wheel Confusion I have read some of the past wheel question threads but still have a question. I want to buy a wheel set.... why? Not because I need it yet but because the hobby does strange things to your mind and you just think you need more My question is about hilly/windy races and which wheels. I am wanting to stay under $1,800 and have been looking at zipp 60's, Flo's, and HED. I have a Cannondale Slice 105. I am 5'7" and 153lbs (need to get down to 146). Half of my races seem to be flat and windy and the other are hilly and windy. I am very new to triathlon as I have just completed my first Sprint yesterday and Have a HIM at the end of September. Is there pros or cons to a certain set in hilly and windy conditions? If I understand correctly areo wheels are really better for flatter races... correct? |
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2013-07-14 5:58 PM in reply to: clrv |
287 | Subject: RE: Wheel Confusion Get a wheel cover for your rear wheels. This will only cost you around $100. A rear wheel cover/disc are actually better for improving bike stability. You are going to be better off finding a used pair of wheels for far less than spending $1800.00. If you are new to triathlons, then avoid purchasing he race wheels with carbon brake tracks as these newer models are likely going to be wider than your stock wheels. This means you are going to have fiddle with the width of the brakes and replace the brake pads every time you insert those carbon brake track race wheels. |
2013-07-18 9:00 PM in reply to: clrv |
Extreme Veteran 459 | Subject: RE: Wheel Confusion Originally posted by clrv I have read some of the past wheel question threads but still have a question. I want to buy a wheel set.... why? Not because I need it yet but because the hobby does strange things to your mind and you just think you need more My question is about hilly/windy races and which wheels. I am wanting to stay under $1,800 and have been looking at zipp 60's, Flo's, and HED. I have a Cannondale Slice 105. I am 5'7" and 153lbs (need to get down to 146). Half of my races seem to be flat and windy and the other are hilly and windy. I am very new to triathlon as I have just completed my first Sprint yesterday and Have a HIM at the end of September. Is there pros or cons to a certain set in hilly and windy conditions? If I understand correctly areo wheels are really better for flatter races... correct? Great questions. I wrote a two part blog article about selecting race wheels. It's as non biased as it can be and discusses race wheels in general, not just FLO wheels. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have any additional questions. Part 1 http://flocycling.blogspot.com/2012/12/flo-cycling-ultimate-guide-t... Part 2 http://flocycling.blogspot.com/2012/12/flo-cycling-ultimate-guide-t... Take care, |
2013-07-18 9:34 PM in reply to: clrv |
Subject: RE: Wheel Confusion Originally posted by clrvIs there pros or cons to a certain set in hilly and windy conditions? If I understand correctly areo wheels are really better for flatter races... correct? A deep front wheel and a disc/disc cover in the rear will be ideal for pretty much every triathlon race regardless of wind or hills. The point at which wind will be a major issue is pretty much when the course is so windy, the race bans the use of disc wheels. AFAIK, this only happens in Kona and Cozumel. Keep in mind that while a disc does catch more crosswinds, it can actually stabalize your handling by pushing your rear wheel more than your front...thus making your front seem more stable. That's important for handling. So while you may get blown more with a 60 front and disc, you'll still feel more in control than a 60/60 in the crosswinds. I've ridden Zipp 404's in Kona descending from Hawi and while it is a little scary, it's still manageable given we could use the whole lane and the shoulder. The point at which hills will be a major issue is when a bike course is net uphill (meaning the finish is at a higher elevation than the start), and the uphill portions average more than 4% grade (this is just a rough guess). I think for pro riders, who can sustain a faster speed uphill, the breakpoint is closer to 7% given they climb at a faster speed than us mere mortals. Basically, unless you're doing a triathlon that labels itself as the craziest bike course in the world, you're probably better off with aero wheels. Even Savageman, which has insane climbing...people are using aero fronts with a disc. |
2013-07-19 9:13 AM in reply to: clrv |
Pro 5361 | Subject: RE: Wheel Confusion deep aero wheels are the best for both flat and hilly courses. A disc on the rear is the best for nearly all situations where its allowed (as previously noted, some courses, like Kona or Cozumel don't allow). If you're ready to drop some coin- instead of $1800 in wheels. buy a good aero front wheel; FLO 60 is the most cost effective, but if you went Jet 6 or Zipp 404 FC, that would be nice and a little lighter- all are top end for aero. then, take the rest of the money and buy a power meter and a rear disc cover. At this point you then need to decide if you're going to ride your new aero wheels all the time? if so, then just go with a pair of the aforementioned 23mm wide new aero wheels. heck, get a rear Zipp 404FC built around a powertap and use it all the time. But if you're going to change from training wheels to race day wheels, then perhaps stick with your narrower rim setup and throw a HedH3 on the front. (Still one of the fastest wheels out there- but only if paired with a narrow tire and in low aspect conditions- i.e. headwind or low winds- not cross winds). Then, just put the H3 on the front for race day and throw a cover on your rear wheel (that you put a powertap in). Wheels are cool. but now you'll have a really trick setup and look fast- so only get it if you won't be passed by people on mountain bikes. |
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