Do I want a tri bike?

Yes!

You'll get some techinical advice from the bike guru's about making sure it fits or else it's not a deal and probably a discussion on tri bikes + hills.  I'll leave that to the pro's.

I'll say that if it's comfortable and you can measure yourself before and the bike is the right size + it's a really good deal then buy it.  I have passed on two great deals and wish I could get a do over.

The AC bike will be flat and fast.  It could be a little windy on the expressway but when you get into the sand barrons I think you'll be happy you got a tri bike.

Make sure it's not stolen.

Originally posted by Leegoocrap

Originally posted by Left Brain

Originally posted by TheClaaaw I intentionally worded that as an impossible to amswer question..... So here's what I really mean.

Should I jump on this opportunity?

I am meeting up with a local guy to look at a tri bike tomorrow night. It was parked at a small event I did Saturday with a sale sign, but I got in too late to check it out. I got ahold of the seller. It's priced insanely good, if I have any sense of what I am looking at. I'm taking it out for a test tomorrow.

so here's my hesitation, even though it's a price I rarely ever see for a bike like this, it's still a not-insignificant investment for me. But if it's going to be worth it, I will swing it.

Here's why I am not sure yet..l am primarily thinking ahead to IM Mont-Tremblant. I have never cnsidered a tri bike before, so I don't really know the intricacies of the differences. I get that you get aero for flat rides. But is a tri bike "rideable" on the hills, if not in aero position? I wouldn't want to invest in something totally useless to me for my big race. I do have the bike leg of Challenge AC as a relay team member, so I know it would be awesome there.

So really, I am looking for you enablers to talk me into buying this bike. But I want to be realistic about where I could use it. I live in Central Pa where flats are nearly nonexisent, but small rollers, false flats and short steep climbs are the norm.

Make sure it's not stolen.

or pick and choose your morals wisely

Good point, but I am pretty safe on this one. The area I live in has few triathletes, and pretty much everyone knows each other. The seller runs a kayak rental business here. I know personally how well people remember a missing/stoken bike. My bike that went missing last summer was remembered by every shop I contacted a year later. Considering how few TT bikes you see around here, a hot bike would definitely catch attention on display at a race.

The price may be right on for used, really. It's $750. I just know to put together something ike this even at lowest level, I'd be looking at 1500 and up. I would bet this was 2k plus, brand new.

Edited by TheClaaaw 2013-10-07 10:13 AM

It's less than I paid for my road bike originally. I'm wondering if it makes any sense to make it my only bike. i don't do group rides. I am currently on a bike that was given to me through a famous thread here n BT, and even though the giver said no strings, it's all mine, I still feel like I need to find a way to replace it and pay it forward. I'm torn.

Andrew,

Putting aside all the "does it fit?" comments that are sure to follow, if a new bike would make racing or training more enjoyable and you can swing it without missing a mortgage payment, or not feeding your family for a couple of weeks, then go for it.

But...from a more rational perspective:

We suffer from the same issue in that our physiques don't permit us to get into low, flat-backed, aggressive aero positions.  If you are forced to use a more upright position, then it negates some of the benefit of the tri bike. 

Secondly, the more slack angle of a road frame is going to help more with your climbing.  I  prefer the multiple hand positions that a road bike with clip-on aero bars provides.  Besides the aerobars, I can ride on the hoods, top of the bar or the drops.  Personally I prefer to ride on the hoods on steep climbs and like the stability of the drops on fast descents. 

My current bike (a Cannondale CAAD7 with clip-on aerobars) is faster than the ability I have to ride it.  My limiters are my conditioning and my physique, both of which I have a degree of control over by riding more (& harder) and eating less (& heathier).  One of my core objectives/motivators is get to the point where my bike is a limiter; at that point I'll be looking for a new ride. 

Good luck with whatever decision you make.

Mark

I won't comment on whether or not it's the right choice for you but I'll just single this part out.  I would say 80-90% of the IMMT course is riding in the aerobars.  Most of the climbing is not sustained but rather a constant series of short hills where you will get in and out of the aerobars for the 10k section of hills.  The descents are not technical at all.

If your concern for the course is whether or not a Tri bike is appropriate for that course, the answer is yes.

Trek Equinox 7 Tri Series

60cm aluminum frame

2009 model year

Shimano 105 cranks, derailleurs, shifters

Bontrager aluminum handlebar assembly

unbranded brake calipers

Bontrager Select Aero wheelset

Bontager Race Lite dual compound tires

Vetta RT77 computer with cadence

WSI Adamo racing saddle and stock Bontrager tri saddle

Thanks for the link. I did find this review helpful as well, more understandable to me as a layman, not a major cycling aficionado. Both convince me that for the money I'd do well with this, especially since I'm a big rider.

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Old_reviews/Old_bike_reviews/Ent...

My first tri bike was an '09 Trek Equinox 7.  While height and inseam don't come close to telling the full story when it comes to fit, I'm 6'0" with a 34.5" inseam and rode a 56cm.  How tall are you and what's your inseam?  A 60cm is a huge bike frame.  Also, the old Equinox line fit more tall and narrow.  Tall and narrow frames are generally better suited for people who are more legs than torso.  Long and low frames are generally more suited for people that are more torso than legs.  The bike manufacturers have all moved closer to the middle over the last couple of years but back in 2009 most bikes fell on either the tall/narrow or long/low camp.  Read this ST article for reference: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/Choosing_a_Tri_Bike_via_Stack_and_Reach/Long_and_low_short_and_narrow_613.html

You describe yourself as long in the torso.  Right away that makes the stock Equinox probably a less than ideal option.  That could probably be rectified by swapping out stems and bars to get the right fit but now you're talking about spending a few hundred dollars more.

Then there's the size.  People who ride 60cm frames are generally 6'4" or taller.  A person who fit well on a 60cm Equinox would be that tall with very long legs.

I know that those of you who follow the standard fit wisdom will find this counterintuitive. But as I am not going for a position that mimics the elites, the longer frame works great for me. I still have a lot of flexibility in the aerobar placement, but as it was set up by the previous rider, it works for me so far. Meaning, it's the most comfortable I've been in that position in anything I've tried yet. -- The seat is all the way down, and the leg "reach" is just right.

I definitely wasn't thinking about a tri bike, but when the opportunity came along and it fit well, I'm glad I took it. I'll fine tune the fit over winter. I don't want to make it sound like I was going to buy it no matter what. If it didn't feel right, no go. And the seller was very concerned about the leg/pedal fit, prepared to talk me out of it until I got on the bike and we saw that it was actually a good fit.

Congrats on the new ride.  Now get out there and ride lots! 

Mark

I know you bought the bike already so what is done is done but...

The first bolded part is troublesome.  It has nothing to do with mimicking or not mimicking an elite fit.  Sometimes pro triathletes have less than ideal fits and some amateurs have the best fits I have ever seen.  What it's about is about placing you on the best bike (in terms of fit and affordability) that will give you the best position based on your physiology.  Riding a bike two sizes too big is not ideal for anyone.  Ever.

The bolded part about saddle height confirms the bike is indeed way too big for you.  If your seat is slammed all the way down it means that your cockpit is probably actually higher than your seat which means you're riding in an extremely upright position and have therefore negated the advantage of the tri bike -- which is to get the rider into an aerodynamic position.  I have a 14cm drop from saddle to pads, which is relatively aggressive (especially for someone in their mid-40's).  Not saying you need a super aggressive position but you're going to have zero drop at best and most likely a rise from saddle to pads.  Your position will be worse than if you were to just ride your road bike.

I think you made a big mistake and you were impulsive.  I'm not saying that to be mean.  The last bolded part is two people that know nothing about bike fitting thinking they saw a good fit.  Any chance you could take a picture of you on the trainer and I'd be glad to point out why the bike is too big.  I'd like to educate you so you don't make the same mistake again.  I was (and I am) trying to be helpful.

First of all, I really hope that the bike works out OK for Andrew.  At the end of the day, it's his money and he's the one who is going to be riding it. 

That being said, I have to agree with GMAN's critique.  If you start out with the seat all the way down you've really boxed yourself into a corner.  Maybe it will work (and for Andrew's sake I hope it does), but you've got no place to go if it doesn't. 

Mark

Bingo.  The most technically aero position in the world isn't going to help if you can't bear to stay in it for more than a few minutes.

If your new bike is more comfortable and that is going to lead you to riding more & longer then that is progress.  Maybe not the "optimal" solution, but if it works for you, then that's OK.  You're going to be spending a lot of time in the saddle over the next year getting ready for your IM, so comfort is going to be critical.

I think that all the advice you've been getting here is well-intended, so hope you don't think anyone is being critical personally., They're just offering their opinions based on their own knowledge and experiences.  With my engineering background I know I tend to look at things in a somewhat more analytical and deliberate manner. 

And please don't denegrate yourself about being a BOPer.  I would have quit a long time ago is that was the only thing that mattered.  At the end of the day you're only competing against yourself and working to improve your own performance.  Lay down your best performance and let the chips fall where they may.   Triathlon is a sport where self-motivation is going to determine your results more than anything else.

So get on those new wheels and start riding.  Wear that thing out and then come back asking for advice on your next bike.

Mark 

PS-  It's manditory on BT to post pictures anytime you get a new bike...