New bike! Please Help!!

I'm a little lost at why you need a new bike for the Seagull Century and why you want/need a $4000 Pinarello.  Pretty nice bike but still.

What type of weight are we talking now, because typically lighter bikes with lighter wheels have limits.   Just a thought

Maybe answering some of the questions above would help us more with you. 

OOOPS.. Sorry about that!!  I wasn't intending to mean that I need it specifically for the Century.  I know what you mean about the weight though I startetd at 257 and now to 225.  like I said ive been riding for about 2 months now.  So its not that I NEED a new one, but a lot of the things ive read has been to buy ONCE.  So I really just want to but ONCE.  It would really upset me that I spend the 2k now and then a few years from now spend another 3 on a bike that I would have eventually gotten in the first place.  You know what I mean?  I am not totally sold on these bikes.  However light mean light and the lighter the bike the longer you can ride, and that will get longer as I go I know.  However I'm not just plannign on staying around here to ride either.  There are a few rides in the Front Royal VA area, and rides in PA as well as Georgia that I would love to get back to.  So if you have any ideas on bikes or builds that are comparable to those bikes then by all means let me know.  I dont mind the noise of the SRAM, and the quietness of the Ultegra is not something I need.  the weight gain that I would get by DURA is not something I HAVE to have.  Again I was just told by quite a few people that if they had it all to do over again that they would have shopped around and done homework and asked people so they would have bought one very nice bike that they can grow into so-to-speak.  So let me know what you think man.

Vas...

Exactly.  I think you need to re-look at the components you are looking at.  Sram is a very nice groupset as well as the ultegra and Dura Ace.  I think you can find a nice bike for about 2000-2800 that will suit all your needs.  When you bump up to something that runs more money you are paying for the weight of the frame and components.  But from the sound of it you haven't been riding enough to really need those items.

The fact is that all of the major manfufacturers you list make some very high quality bikes these days, and I'd go so far as to say that most of them make very decent entry level affordable bikes as well.  As for components, they all make some very nice ones and some very affordable quality entry level ones as well.

One thing you must remember is that the bike will not make much of a difference... it's the engine that matters.  You will not hop on a $4000 bike and be instantly faster than you were on a $1000 bike.

That said, if you are riding every day and looking to up your mileage, than having a very nice bike is worth it in my opinion... you will enjoy the experience more, be more comfortable, and probably want to ride your bike more (good for the engine) because it is one sexy bike.

Here is what I would do if I was you:

1) pay for a fitting first.  Find out what bikes (based on their geometries and your fit metrics) would be good for you.  Far better to buy a bike that is right for you than to get the one you want the most but will have to add all kinds of funky stems, spacers, seatposts, etc to make it fit you.

2) do some research here, on www.slowtwitch.com, and on roadie forums.  You'll see what bikes tend to be most popular, and there's usually a good reason.

3) Save yourself some money (for some more good bike shorts, which will have far more of an impact on comfort than the difference between a $2000 and a $4000 bike) and go with ultegra components.  You will not be able to tell the difference in performance between them and dura-ace... and losing one pound will make more of a difference than the weight savings of the upgraded groupset.

4) Have your wheels built by someone who knows what they are doing.  www.wheelbuilder.com is a great on-line source.  Ultegra hub + open pro or kinlin rim + the spokes of your choice will be a solid wheelset.  I also think you'd be happier on a cheaper bike (say $3000) + used zipp404s than you would on a brand new $4000 bike with stock crappy wheels.

5) Ultimately, you should buy the bike you like.  That means that if color matters to you, you shouldn't be afraid to walk away from a bike that just doesn't come in the color you want.  Same thing for groupsets, carbon vs. aluminum, etc.  The fact of the matters is that liking your bike will make a difference in terms of how much you ride it.  I'd just caution you to have informed reasons for your preferences.  Otherwise you risk being in love with it when you walk out the door, but having a very brief honeymoon.  If you're willing to be very practical, you could get a very plane jane bike, and realize shortly into your relationship that she's everything the prom queen seemed to be but at a fraction of the cost.

Case in point for me... I've had a $3000 carbon fiber time trial bike (Cervelo P2C) and after crashing it and totalling it before I ever raced on it, replaced it with a used aluminum P2SL for under $600.  I honestly can't tell you there is a single difference between the two bikes, except when I'm riding on some VERY rough pavement the 1/5th the price bike does not absorb the bumps quite as well... but it would be uncomfortable on either bike.  I'm MUCH faster on the aluminum bike than I was on the carbon bike, but that is 100% a factor of the engine being vastly improved.  I can honestly tell you I don't miss the carbon bike, and part of me even enjoys sporting an old-school bike and letting my times talk for themselves.

This is for me, and the answer may be different for you, but if I was shopping for a road bike I'd probably end up on a cannondale CAAD9... in my humble opinion the best bang for your buck road bike out there.  If I was going to spend the cash you're talking about, I'd end up on either a cervelo S2 or a Look 595.

Unless you're riding a 30lb steel frame mountain bike, the weight gains from the Pinarello would be negligible. At your current pace, you could keep riding the specialized and lose just as much, if not more wieght from your engine.

When your century ride gets closer, if you feel you want the better bike, go for it. By that time you should have been able to save up a bit more for it and it will put less of a dent in your wallet. It will also give you a bit more time to make sure that you want to continue with your cycling. Im the last person who needs to lecture someone on spur of the moment purchases, but $4000 is a hefty price to pay when you are just getting into something, even more so if it leaves you high and dry financially.

I realize there is a huge urge to buy a new bike as I just went through a similar dilemma.  A few things I would take into consideration in addition to the comments above.

1) Test ride everything and I mean EVERYTHING.  I don't mean just cruise around the parking lot a few times.  Take the bike over different terrain / gradients, accelerate, brake, corner, etc.  For me, this eliminated a few bikes which I was in love with before riding them.  Don't spend too much time researching online.  Everyone has a different opinion / theory and what matters most is fit and whether your comfortable on the bike.  

2) If you have a budget wait till the end of the year or when the 2011 bikes hit stores.  You should be able to find a pretty good deal on some 2010 bikes

Lastly, I agree with your comment about buying a bike ONCE.  If you are serious about riding and spending hours upon hours on the bike then stretch a little bit.  You don't want to be thinking about buying another bike in 12-24 months time.  Also, go with Ultegra or Force (if you like Double Tap) since you'll get 99% of the performance.

I bought my first bike this time last year and (oddly enough) this is the reason I didn't do a lot of research first. 

It didn't take very long to realize that I didn't have enough experience that I'd be able to tell the difference between shimano, sram, etc components.  Not only that but I figured that wouldn't be able to tell the difference between good mid grade and top of the line components.  As for weight concerns, I decided it was bast to take the weight off the saddle instead trying to take it out of components.

So far I've been very happy.  I guess ignorance is bliss.

Awesome viewpoints and excellent opinions with each of you.  Talking to a few more people and reaing these words, I must agree with everyone.  I mean even the guy that said stretch it LOL.  Taking the weight off the saddle is a great way to put it.  This was originally intended to be a thin I go out and do a couple times a week and "Try," to lose some weight in the process.  However, once I got on it, it was like something I cannot really even explain.  I just love it.  I am anxious to get out there each and every morning.  I live here in Princess Anne and I have a very nice 25 and close to 30 Mile route I found and I honestly just love this.  I am not looking to go hardcore and try to be more than I am.  That is where I will fail and slump back into not doing crap.  So for now the bike search will wait for a while and when the Century draws nearer I will see where I am financially and see whats available.  I really just hate to wait getting something.  However, with this I know that I should.  Thanks again to all of you and Good luck in all your endevours!!


Vas...

Whatever these folks all of the above said!  Follow their advice man!  Newbie here too and these fine folks got me right on track.  I own a $400 Trek Alfa 1000 2000 (see my picture on my red white and blue bike) and bought it used and I love it even if she's a bit heavy.  I just got a great bonus from work but will not buy a bike for now.  I love my Trek and on my first tri sprint overtook some newbies on brand spankin new tri bikes at least three of them...how did that feel?  Priceless my friend and to think I was only averaging 18 MPH  LOL!  Listen to these people they are great folks!

Later amigo!

Chris (US Navy 1985-2005)

Edited by NAVYVET2005 2010-07-15 8:58 PM

Good advice in the thread. Gonna funnel Josh's a bit.

• Clydes (200lbs+) break bikes. I try not to be drawn to the lightest anymore. Light bikes IMO are for 160lb and lighter riders with understanding wives that don't mind replacing parts. IMO comfort trumps weight. 17-18lb bike are still light!
• Wheels-I would stay away from less than a 24 spoke rear. I like straight pull over a j-bend spokes. 28 spoked rear IMO is better. I've tried 20 spoke Mavic's, Velocity's and Performance and ruined them in 1000 miles or less. 24 spoke Easton/Velomax are okay...wish Cane Creek still made there 28 spoke wheel-they were cheap, fast and strong....
• Spend $ on your bike shorts-lot's of folks here like DeSoto 400 mile....I'm gonna try them next. I use Descent Aero X and they've been good.
• Shimano Ultegra and Sram Force are well regarded mid level component spec that are light enough and dependable....

Enjoy your new bike!

Great summary and additional comments for a big guy just like most of us.. or well not Josh anymore 

I'm a big guy at heart still... though my new wheels are 20 and 18 spoke


I will say to the OP - this doesn't sound like a fad for you.  You just love being on your bike in a way that's hard to describe.  Lots of us here know exactly what you're talking about (if only I could figure out how to channel that to the pool!!!!).

Anyway... TO ME that's a big deal when it comes to bike shopping.  You're already happy on your entry-level bike.  But you can have confidence that you won't be wasting your money on some garage art if you pull the trigger on something more.  Despite all the cautions I gave above, your "I just can't explain it" love for the bike kind of makes me want to tell you to go for it.

And by "it" I mean the cervelo s2 of course

Gotta love the S2...looks likea frame that will last