Bike pedal overlap with front wheel

i have a minor overlap on my giant trinity (small).

Generlaly I only notice it when i'm stopped and turn sharp while waiting. I've never seen it while riding though.

Toe overlap is normal on high performance geometry bicycles. It is generally safe since the front wheel will never be turned far enough at normal riding speeds to actually hit the pedal at its forward position.

However, the Consumer Product Safety Commision (CPSC) has taken notice of this and, as a result, there has been a concern for bike brands and manufacturers predominantly centered on liability insurance and its costs. As a result, a few bikes have front end geometries moderated to eliminate toe overlap throughout the entire steering range.

Realistically, it is not a major concern except when turning in very tight circles at low speed.

^^this is what I was pretty much trying to say. That must be one reason that freestyle and trials bikes have such long wheel bases...you do a lot of standing still and tight turning. 

No I don't think this is common on smaller size road bikes. I ride 51 or 52 and have had 6 bikes. It only happens on 1 bike which is my cyclocross bike which has a shorter top tube. It doesn't happen on normal turns you would make riding the bike on the road, only very tight 90+ turns going at slow speed on trails where you can't cut the corner.

With the shorter crank how much toe overlap will she have? Some? Will it occur on all turns or only sharper ones.

What size crank did they install or would they install? You could get 145-160 in off market or cut down Apex cranks to be shorter and that difference between 170 and 150 might work.

Has she been fit?

What about her cleat placement?

If there is overlap but she won't ever be in a position for it to occur on the road due to the tightness of the turn I'd worry less.

Cross bike I have, I instinctively know when it will happen and will back pedal 1/2 a rotation and pedal again until I get thru the turn enough to avoid the overlap. I was quite miffed when I got the bike and had it happen as I ordered a semi custom cross bike. It wasn't like I could return it.

We'll have to go in and see how much overlap there is with the shorter crank (we have to drive an hour to get there so haven't had time yet).  I think they said they were going to try a 165.

She was fit, and it had me kind of wondering about the LBS - that they didn't notice it.

She doesn't have cleats yet, just a toe cage, which exacerbates the problem.

Thanks for all the responses, I guess we just need to go pick it up and do some riding to see if it is going to be an issue... sounds like maybe it isn't as big of a problem as I initially thought.

I have a size 52 Trek (and wear size 8 shoes) and the ONLY time this ever comes up is if I have my right foot at 3 o'clock, I am at an intersection and have to touch the crosswalk button, and I turn my handlebars as part of rotating my bike 90 degrees while stopped.

When riding the bike, I lean to turn. 

When I turn to the right, I have my pedal at the 12 o'clock position unless some highly usual situation.  If the turn is gentle enough that I keep pedaling, then I am DEFINITELY not turning the wheel dramatically.

Long story short, it's not a problem when operating the bike properly. 

Agree it's very common with shorter frames.

Can even occur with larger frames if the TT is relatively short.

For example, my custom geometry frame has a "size" of 64cm and has MAJOR toe overlap.

Once you know it's there, it's only an issue when turning at VERY slow speed (like starting or stopping), which calls for a "ratchet" pedaling style.

Ride more, worry less.

... in which case your feet would be at 12 & 6 anyway.