PSA: Wrenching Skills Challenge Jan 15- March 1st (Page 2)

Originally posted by switch

WOW!  There are a lot of you with some really cool projects and a lot of know-how.  It looks like we'll have a good knowledge base to draw from as we take on our respective projects--AWESOME!

A question for the experienced wrenchers: What basic tools should we have on hand to tackle bike projects? Jason gave a pretty extensive list, but I don't know enough about what is needed and what isn't, and what tools will be bike brand/component specific. Thanks

Originally posted by briderdt

To this basic list I would add a torque wrench (especially if you're working with carbon. Too much torque on a bolt can ruin your day. Of course, you'll need the set of hex bits to go with it, but you'll want those anyway - sometimes the T-handle hex wrenches don't give you enough leverage, especially on pedals and cranks. The other thing is a good stand. It's amazing how much easier a stand makes working on (or just cleaning) a bike. Harbor Freight is a good source for inexpensive T-handle hex wrenches, bits and torque wrench - you'll pay three to five times as much if you get the same stuff from Park or Pedro's. Bike-specific tools you'll have to go with Park et al.

The only thing I've taken my bike to the LBS for recently is changing suspension bearings and wheel work – both require (or are much easier with) specialized tools I don't have. Another option if you have one nearby is a bike co-op or something similar. Here in Orange County, Calif., we have OC Bike Garage. They'll do the wrenching for you, but they also have rental work areas with all the specialized tools such as headset and BB presses.

Finally, I'll add that for me working on bikes is a close second to actually riding them. It's relaxing and therapeutic. Especially with a good beer within reach. Ignore that last comment if your training regimen precludes it. You'll save money in the long run and, most importantly, reduce downtime on your bikes that you can't ride them.

Originally posted by rjames91

Lots of good stuff here.  Thanks Dave and rjames.

I expect wrenching to be somewhat similar to golf and darts for me-- I'm much better with one or two beers on board; five or six, and I should probably step away from the tools:)

Originally posted by tech_geezer

I may have something that may be interesting to this group.  I am working on a Wheel Truing Algorithm.  It may be ready by January for beta testing.  The idea is that the user measures the difference from round in a truing stand using dial indicators for radial and lateral displacement, measures the spoke tension using a meter of some sort (I like the iPhone Spoke Tension Meter app.),  and inputs the data into a computer.  The truing algorithm calculates the number of turns of each spoke to bring the wheel to true and equally tensioned.  The algorithm is based on a structural model the wheel that simultaneously solve bending equations for the the rim laterally and radial  and a model of stretching the spokes.  It is some very cool math and physics. 

I think this model will help beginning professional wheel builders and do-it-yourselfer get a feel for how much to turn a spoke to get the wheel truer each time rather that out in a different direction.  It lowers the skill level required to produce a really well-built wheel. 

The model works and I have tried it on one wheel.  The first sample was a wheel that was bent in an accident so it was not a great candidate.  The algorithm told me that the tension in the spokes would be too high to get the wheel true.  This was exactly what happened.  I need to set up to do some more wheels.

Here are some pictures of my setup.

The top picture is a cardboard protractor that I slip over the spoke with a pointer attached to the spoke wrench.  I also clip a paper clip to the spoke so I can see how much the spoke twists.  

The middle picture is the Spoke Tension Meter app.  It works by detecting the frequency of the plucked spoke and converting the frequency to tension.  It works pretty well.  By that I mean that the measurement is reproducible.  I don't have any way to calibrate against a standard.  Reproducible is probably most important for building wheels.  It reads about 10% higher consistently than a Park Tension Meter.   

The bottom picture is my truing stand with digital dial indictors replacing the Park mechanical dial indictors.  I can read down to .01 mm.  Having the digital readings rather than a big dial and one or two small dials to combine is much easier.

I have a very lengthy paper on the mathematical method for the truing algorithm for anyone who is interested.  70 pages mostly equations.

The computer program currently runs under a freeware program called Scilab that is very similar to Matlab.  It is only 3 pages.

 

TW

 

 

Originally posted by audiojan

I'm working on 3 bikes right now… My wife has an Orbea Orca Dama that is being built up with Campy Record (10 speed stuff), this was a warranty replacement for a frame that broke. She also having her dream bike built up, a Parlee Z5SLi that I'm building up with all kinds of goodies and Campy Super Record EPS. The third bike will be a Parlee TT. I had lots of injuries last year and decided to sell my tri bike (just couldn't ride it enough) and then I got a great opportunity to get a Parlee TT (medium tall) with full Di2, that's slowly being assembled.

I've built up every single bike we have/had (total of 18 bikes…) so I do have the skills and tools to do it. The only thing I have not been working on in the past is Campy EPS, but now I have all the tools for that as well.

Originally posted by Jason N Yeah, it doesn't seem that difficult at all. I think the biggest hurdle for me is that I don't have cables or housings on hand. I have to go to my LBS to get them, so it's just easier if I drop it off (they usually do it for me for free). But if I can buy a bunch of cables and housing to store at home, then it should be something I can do myself. The tricky thing for me seems to be trimming the housings to the right length. I know you can just measure based off the existing housings, but what if you're swapping out your cockpit and your cables run differently? I'd at least like to know what the typical protocol is for knowing if your housing is too long/short or just right. I know once I had my cables changed and they made the cable/housing too short for the front derailleur. When I packed my bike in my car and turned the handlebars 90 degrees, the cable would pull and shift the FD.

Originally posted by switch

WOW!  There are a lot of you with some really cool projects and a lot of know-how.  It looks like we'll have a good knowledge base to draw from as we take on our respective projects--AWESOME!

A question for the experienced wrenchers: What basic tools should we have on hand to tackle bike projects? Jason gave a pretty extensive list, but I don't know enough about what is needed and what isn't, and what tools will be bike brand/component specific. Thanks

Originally posted by pitt83Skeptically watching his thread. In theory, you're right. But in practice, wheel building and truing is a feel and and softer art then pure mathematics.