First bike build - what am I missing? - Questions

You are way more ambitious than I!

I don't know if you've seen this before, but the brothers over at FLO did an e-book on how to build a bike. Pretty cool!
http://flocycling.blogspot.com/search/label/eBooks

Most are short cage unless you are running a triple or some nutty gearing. Short is the default.

braze on. Most road derailleurs aren't classified top or bottom pull, but I guess technically they are bottom.

I just buy mine by the foot from the LBS... I think they use bontrager... but most is similar until you get into the higher end stuff (Nokons/Jagwire/etc)

Again... whatever. I use Park Tools but just because that was what was on the shelf when I bought it.

Blue

LBS or ebay. Just need to make sure if it's 1" or 1 1/8"

Also need a press for the headset if it hasn't been done already. Allen wrenches besides what you have listed. (Maybe some carbon grip for the seat tube if it's all carbon.)

Check out ParkTools website, and Youtube for anything you're stuck on.

A case of beer and a long night. You'll screw something up and have to go back at least once.

I think the P2C (2008) fork is 1 1/8", isn't that standard for road/tri bikes?
Or does the diameter only apply to the headset and the fork/stem are all standard?

What is "carbon grip"?

The absolute first thing you need (IMO of course) is a good workstand.

Alright got a workstand. Frame is already in it.
Looks like headset came with bike, anyone know what type of headset it is?
Looks like an IS system?

Chris (Leegoocrap) got it all, expect for one thing that I think it absolutely critical... a torque wrench. It's bad enough if things slip while riding, but even worse if your over-torque and crack brand new parts (or even the frame!). Also, use carbon mounting paste for seat post, handlebars, etc.

Make sure you really understand what you are doing before jumping in head first... there's a few things that you can really screw up badly if you're not installing it correctly.

OK, never heard about carbon paste.
What is it that I can screw up badly?

I got a torque wrench. About 18years ago I worked in a bike store as a mechanic for a few weeks.

I've replaced everything on my 2008 P2C so I know how much enjoyment you're in for.

Your previous question about the difference between a long and short cage derailleur? Short cage derailleurs limit the cog size on the cassette to about 30 teeth. Long cage derailleurs allow bigger cassette cogs.

The headset was difficult for me to find. The standardized nomenclature for the headset is; 110.IS41-42. (I bought a red ceramic bearing Cane Creek for the bling factor.)

The fork steerer tube is a 1 1/8 inch so you need that size spacers (they are sized based on the OD of the steerer tube). There are several places on-line that sell assorted carbon spacers in assorted colors. They come in different thicknesses so you can adjust your stem and stack height.

The P2C was one of the easier builds for me because it was relatively straight forward UNTIL it got to the internal cable routing. THAT was nerve wracking. It can be done but it takes patience.

I put mine together with mostly SRAM red stuff I bought on ebay (I prefer shimano's crankset non-drive side pinch bolts to the SRAM fastener.)

If you haven't been to roadbike review forums you may want to check them out. They have a build forum that contains a lot of good information.
Good luck.
JWR

I too built my own TT bike a couple of years ago. I took the headset down to my LBS to have them press it into place... $5 and done correctly with the special tools. The carbon grip/paste adds friction to your seat tube so it does'nt slip on you. I also found lots of help info online just by googling delraileur installation guide, etc. to make sure I postioned everything properly.

Not sure if the P2C has internal cable routing? If so, there are some fun techniques to guide your cables through. Make sure your cabling doesn't bind when you swing your handlebars left and right. Be careful of routing cabling and houseing with sharp bends, as that will impact how smoothly you can brake and shift. When you cut youe steerer tube, leave it a little tall at first... you can always make a second cut later, but you can't add material back on.

LH/RH thread on a bottom bracket... cross thread it and the frame could toast. Press fit (headset or bottom brackets), press it in crooked and the frame could be toast. Over torque anything and carbon (and aluminum for that matter) can develop cracks over time. Under torque and you can have slippage which could cause pretty spectacular crashes... cable length is really critical; too long cables and you will have a negative effect on steering and brake movement, too short, and well, you can't turn. Cutting the seatpost (if integrated) and steerer tube too short and you may have a frame that is not usable (which reminds me, make sure you have the proper tools, hacksaw, new fine tooth blade, and the proper cutting guides/fixtures).

Not so critical, but costly. Cut the chain too short and you will need a new chain. If you are using a chain with a pin (as opposed to a chain lock), over torque that and you will have a chain that doesn't bend properly cause really bad shifting, or even worse, it could destroy the rear derailleur by jamming; under torque the pin and you will have a chain that allows too much side movement causing shifting to suffer or worse breaks (which will happen when you put out the most torque while riding, so always at the worst time and will very likely cause a crash). Over or under torque the headset and you will have either a steering that doesn't work properly (too tight and possibly seizing up, feeling notchy), and if under torqued, could cause the head set to fail rapidly and will have a very negative effect on how the bike handles and feels.

Now, with all these things listed, as long as you pay attention and develop an understanding of how to do everything before you do it (Park Tools is a great site, but there's also lots of videos on youtube), it is a lot of fun and very rewarding. The great benefit (and savings) comes from understanding how everything works, which means that you can do your own service. Once you start factoring in the cost of tools, all the parts, etc. it's rarely a cost savings doing it all by yourself compared to buying a complete bike.