TT bike handling vs. road bike handling
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2012-11-18 10:09 PM |
Expert 1375 McAllen | Subject: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling I sold my road bike to make the jump to a tri bike, and the handling feels way weird. I've had clips attached to my road bike but its still way different because of the geometry. sitting on the nose of the saddle is very very different. I went for a 10 mile ride the other day so my bike could start the process of breaking me in, and it completely blows my mind that IM racers do it for 112 miles. Different saddle? getting used to the geometry? What do you think are the best things for getting used to the new fit for longer rides? I did get a bike fit by the way, came with the bike shop deal |
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2012-11-18 10:18 PM in reply to: #4502899 |
Master 10208 Northern IL | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Keep riding in aero in areas that are safe to do so. |
2012-11-18 10:40 PM in reply to: #4502906 |
Expert 1375 McAllen | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling even up on the horns its still way twitchy :p was just surprised thats all. I'm sure I'll get broken in eventually x) |
2012-11-18 11:07 PM in reply to: #4502915 |
Extreme Veteran 1332 | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Definitely different :p I was used to riding a tri bike way before I ever bought a roadie though, so it didn't feel too bad for me. I DID notice that my upper arms get WAY more sore on the road bike than my tri bike, where many people will have uncomfortable neck and shoulders after a while on the tri bike. I can ride both very comfortably now, but do prefer the speed and feel of the front end with my arms "resting" on the tri-bars. I've also got a significantly shorter stem on my tri bike but have no issues with it. you'll get used to it! Personally I would have kept both bikes if at all possible though...... :p I realize it's not feasible for everyone though. |
2012-11-18 11:09 PM in reply to: #4502899 |
Extreme Veteran 1332 | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Also, you may want to start with a less aggressive front end, and slowly drop it as you get more comfortable in the position, at first you'll be pretty uncomfortable, but you'd be surprised how much your body can adapt to a more and more aggressive position while still being comfortable! |
2012-11-19 5:05 AM in reply to: #4502899 |
Member 64 Lebanon | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Had the same experience. I couldn't believe how different it handled than my road bike. I thought I made a mistake buying it and I would never be faster on it. It just takes a little time. Once you get comfortable on it, you'll love it. |
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2012-11-19 7:07 AM in reply to: #4502899 |
Pro 5892 , New Hampshire | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling TT bikes handles very similar to road bikes (not the same mind you, but usually very similar in terms of stability). A tri bike on the other hand, will handle quite differently. Your position is much more forward, which changes the balance of the bike (hence the differences in geometry). Saddle issues and unable to find the balance of the bike.... the two most common indicators that your fit is off. You probably know what I would recommend.... |
2012-11-19 9:31 AM in reply to: #4503076 |
Expert 1375 McAllen | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling I used TT and tri bike interchangeably, figured they were the same. Whats the difference? Also, definitely needing a new saddle. even tilted up and down and so forth its still a lot of pressure in the nether regions. Its not the fit, either :p |
2012-11-19 10:09 AM in reply to: #4503278 |
Pro 5892 , New Hampshire | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling odpaul7 - 2012-11-19 10:31 AM I used TT and tri bike interchangeably, figured they were the same. Whats the difference? Also, definitely needing a new saddle. even tilted up and down and so forth its still a lot of pressure in the nether regions. Its not the fit, either :p Many times, the expressions are use interchangeably, but they are technical differences. A TT bike complies with the UCI regulations, where the seat nose must be 5cm behind the bottom bracket (i.e. shallow seat tube angle) and there's also limitations on tube depth to width ratio, length of aero bar extensions, etc. etc. etc. etc. They are designed with aerodynamics in mind, neglecting comfort (you rarely have any longer TT's... a really long one is 40-50km). A tri bike is specifically designed to put you in the best possible aerodynamic while maintaining efficiency and comfort. Since you don't have to live within the limitations of the UCI, you can design a bike quite differently. Now with that said, there are a few bikes that are both UCI legal yet still triathlon bikes.... Speed Concept for example comes to mind, where it's primarily designed as a tri bike, but has a seat post that will allow you to move far enough back to comply with UCI. If you've had a fit already, then go back to the fitter and discuss this discomfort with him/her. Most saddle issues are fit issues (too much pressure because of seat height for example), but saddles are also the most personal item on the entire bike... it could be that it simply doesn't work for you. Again, most fitters will have you try different saddles as they do have different lengths and heights, which changes the fit. |
2012-11-19 10:17 AM in reply to: #4503346 |
Expert 1375 McAllen | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling I'm scheduled to go back in a few weeks so hopefully a few minor tilts up/down will fix it. Edited by odpaul7 2012-11-19 10:18 AM |
2012-11-19 10:29 AM in reply to: #4502899 |
Elite 3498 Laguna Beach | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Firstly, let's sort out the difference in nomenclature between a "TT" or time trial bike and a triathlon bike, especially since the gap between the two is really growing now at the manufacturer level: Time Trial Bike: UCI compliant with saddle setback. Used for time trials as in stage race individual timed events, team time trials where drafting is used and in individual (stand alone) time trials. Used by bicycle racers in time trial events. Not intended or configured to run off of. Responsive, not stable. Optimized to comply with UCI rules. Triathlon bike: Designed around aero, elbow rest handlebars. Designed "from the handlebars back" (Dan Empfield). NOT UCI compliant. Steeper effective seat tube angle, more relaxed, open angle between femur and torso than time trial bike. Some studies suggest better run performance off bike, some do not. Longer "front/center" dimension than TT bike and more relaxed ehad tube angle than TT bike. Optimized to run off of. Not for bicycle time trials, for triathlons and duathlons where athlete will not draft other bikes but will run following bike. Stable, not responsive. Now, handling: Most people report poor handling on a triathlon bike because of less than optimal fit and position. When a triathlon bike is fitted and positoned correctly (you have the optimal bike for you in the optimal frame size and the bike is then optimally positionied for you) the darn thing about rides itself. You could go to sleep on it. All you do is sit there and turn the pedals. It holds your upper body up quite nicely, doesn't kill your crotch, makes your back feel OK and is very stable, stable enough so you can look behind you, reach for a water bottle without affecting your steering. It feels stable. If a triathlon bike doesn't feel stable it may be because of a few reasons, or any combination of a few reasons: 1. It may not have optimal geometry for triathlons, but may have optimal geometry for time trials. Specifically, the head tube angle is too steep, closer to 73 degrees than 72. Empfield experimented with triathlon bikes with 69 degree head tube angles. The industry has settled on about 72 as a good head tube angle for well designed triathlon bikes. Bikes that do "double duty" as a Tt and triathlon bike usually head back toward 73 degree head angle but may have a fork design with more rake and trail to induce more stable handling. 2. Your fit and position may be off. A very common issue with triathlon bike sizing is buying a frame size too small. I've done it, and I was corrected by both Dan Empfield and Gerard Vroomen of Cervelo. They both moved me up a frame size so I could get a steeper effective seat tube angle and more open angle between femur and torso for a more relaxed posture at the top of the pedal stroke. This also resulted in more wheelbase and more front/center for better bike handling stability. I hope those ideas help.
Edited by Tom Demerly. 2012-11-19 10:36 AM |
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2012-11-19 10:39 AM in reply to: #4503383 |
Expert 1375 McAllen | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Definitely, thanks Tom! Its a QR Kilo and the head tube angle is 72.5. I tried spinning on a medium frame but I was too compressed on it so the shop owner bumped me up to a large. I'll bring up the "twitchy" feel when I go back for a follow-up fit. Turning left and right is where I feel a notable difference, but as far as stability goes I'm definitely more than comfortable staying upright. I'll keep everything in mind when I go for a few more rides. I'm basing everything I felt off of a 40 minute trial. Edited by odpaul7 2012-11-19 10:41 AM |
2012-11-19 11:04 AM in reply to: #4502939 |
Oakville | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling dfquigley - 2012-11-19 12:09 AM Also, you may want to start with a less aggressive front end, and slowly drop it as you get more comfortable in the position, at first you'll be pretty uncomfortable, but you'd be surprised how much your body can adapt to a more and more aggressive position while still being comfortable! Just curious if anyone recommends getting a new fit as you become more agressive. I bought my Felt B16 in June and over time have made a few adjustments for comfort and to get more aggressive. I don't think they are too dramatic, basically just removing spacers under the elbow pads and a few minor adjustments to the aero bars and seat height/angle for comfort. Is a fit meant to be that "precise" or can it generally tolerate these comfort tweeks without going back for a re-fit (the LBS where I bought the bike is about 2 hours drive away)? |
2012-11-19 11:18 AM in reply to: #4503463 |
Expert 1375 McAllen | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling By slowly dropping the spacers, though, you're subjecting yourself to a hip angle that'll also slowly become more closed off than before. So yes, if you're gonna be dropping spacers its recommended to get it checked with the bike shop. |
2012-11-19 11:26 AM in reply to: #4503406 |
Elite 3498 Laguna Beach | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling odpaul7, I kinda figured you knew all that stuff because you strike me as a pretty smart guy based on your previous posts. |
2012-11-19 11:42 AM in reply to: #4503505 |
Expert 1375 McAllen | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Noo not really Tom. Almost all bike questions can fortunately be answered with a better fit, and most issues can be linked to "stuff" like stability and crotch pain. The specifics were all you!! |
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2012-11-19 11:59 AM in reply to: #4502899 |
Extreme Veteran 1018 | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling At first, I found that when I dropped my stem 1 notch, I could really feel it in the hamstrings. Also, my neck was mad at me. I road for a few weeks and was able to get more comfortable. You know what to do. Just ride more and make minor adjustments. Ride for a couple of weeks before making another adjustment. |
2012-11-19 3:07 PM in reply to: #4502899 |
Veteran 362 CT | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling It just takes time. For me it was about 3 months riding it twice a week. I went through the same thing about a year ago. I could not believe how different the feel was. However, now that I am used to it I am much faster. Keep at it. |
2012-11-19 4:39 PM in reply to: #4502899 |
Pro 5361 | Subject: RE: TT bike handling vs. road bike handling Tri bikes tend to be stable and comfortable, rather than 'twitchy'. A likely cause is that you may be positioned too far forward with your fit. I haven't ridden a Kilo, but the bike has been around for a few years and I've never heard anything bad about it. if it were a 'twitchy' bike- people would complain. your new bike should NOT feel like this. If it takes more than 10 miles to get used to the handling, something is wrong. |