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Crown moulding
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 2013-05-19 8:35 PM |
Champion  16151     Checkin' out the podium girls |  Subject: Crown mouldingI'm totally confused about how to cut the angles on crown moulding. You have to accomodate 2 different 45 degree angles. How in the hell do you measure for the lengths? And then you have the miter to accomodate on the ore end of the piece! I want to install it on my kitchen cabinets. How in the hell do you do this? Any teaching tools? I have only an simple miter saw and no conundrum one. Do I need this? Can I do it with an hand miter box? |
| 2013-05-19 9:06 PM in reply to: pitt83 |
Regular 5477 LHOTP | Subject: RE: Crown moulding Originally posted by pitt83 I'm totally confused about how to cut the angles on crown moulding. You have to accomodate 2 different 45 degree angles. How in the hell do you measure for the lengths? And then you have the miter to accomodate on the ore end of the piece! I want to install it on my kitchen cabinets. How in the hell do you do this? Any teaching tools? I have only an simple miter saw and no conundrum one. Do I need this? Can I do it with an hand miter box? That's funny :) Could you borrow or rent a compound? |
| 2013-05-20 6:27 AM in reply to: switch |
Master 2380 Beijing | Subject: RE: Crown moulding A compound miter saw is not necessary. A well-setup saw IS necessary. You need to make sure that your saw is "plumb" so that a 90degree cut is perfectly square. You also need to make sure that the 45 degree markings on your saw are accurate. Once you've verified that your saw is cutting "true" You need to make 2 measurements. 1. Measure the length that the lower edge of the molding needs to be in contact with the wall/cabinet. 2. Measure the angle of the joint. If it's a cabinet, it's probably VERY close to 90 degrees. If it's a wall, all bets are off... could be any where from 85-95 degrees. Place the molding on the fence just like it would be fastened to the wall/cabinet, and make your cut. To be super-precise, you can "sneak up" on the joint by cutting it a little long at first, and then going back and test-fitting the piece to see how much more needs to come off. Then take a little more off. You can use the same process on the angle to get a perfect fit for outside corners. Figure out which piece of molding will be the "easiest" to cut, and use it to anchor your project. Then, work your way around the room, using the "sneak up" method of making cuts. It will take you a while, but it will be the easiest way for a rookie to get great results. |
| 2013-05-20 7:39 AM in reply to: moondawg14 |
Champion 16151 Checkin' out the podium girls | Subject: RE: Crown moulding So, basically,treat it like a straight cut and take the length measurements on the short, cabinet face side? Should I make a hold block on the table saw so that the fence accomodates holding that piece firmly? |
| 2013-05-20 8:32 AM in reply to: moondawg14 |
Member 54 | Subject: RE: Crown moulding Originally posted by moondawg14 A compound miter saw is not necessary. A well-setup saw IS necessary. You need to make sure that your saw is "plumb" so that a 90degree cut is perfectly square. You also need to make sure that the 45 degree markings on your saw are accurate. Once you've verified that your saw is cutting "true" You need to make 2 measurements. 1. Measure the length that the lower edge of the molding needs to be in contact with the wall/cabinet. 2. Measure the angle of the joint. If it's a cabinet, it's probably VERY close to 90 degrees. If it's a wall, all bets are off... could be any where from 85-95 degrees. Place the molding on the fence just like it would be fastened to the wall/cabinet, and make your cut. To be super-precise, you can "sneak up" on the joint by cutting it a little long at first, and then going back and test-fitting the piece to see how much more needs to come off. Then take a little more off. You can use the same process on the angle to get a perfect fit for outside corners. Figure out which piece of molding will be the "easiest" to cut, and use it to anchor your project. Then, work your way around the room, using the "sneak up" method of making cuts. It will take you a while, but it will be the easiest way for a rookie to get great results. It is best to place on saw fence upside down and cut backwards. And these instructions are good for outside corners. Inside corners must be coped for best fit and gap prevention. Rent an electric miter box, no compound needed, and watch all the youtube videos that you can find. |
| 2013-05-20 8:56 AM in reply to: jsp8 |
Master 2380 Beijing | Subject: RE: Crown moulding Originally posted by jsp8 Originally posted by moondawg14 A compound miter saw is not necessary. A well-setup saw IS necessary. You need to make sure that your saw is "plumb" so that a 90degree cut is perfectly square. You also need to make sure that the 45 degree markings on your saw are accurate. Once you've verified that your saw is cutting "true" You need to make 2 measurements. 1. Measure the length that the lower edge of the molding needs to be in contact with the wall/cabinet. 2. Measure the angle of the joint. If it's a cabinet, it's probably VERY close to 90 degrees. If it's a wall, all bets are off... could be any where from 85-95 degrees. Place the molding on the fence just like it would be fastened to the wall/cabinet, and make your cut. To be super-precise, you can "sneak up" on the joint by cutting it a little long at first, and then going back and test-fitting the piece to see how much more needs to come off. Then take a little more off. You can use the same process on the angle to get a perfect fit for outside corners. Figure out which piece of molding will be the "easiest" to cut, and use it to anchor your project. Then, work your way around the room, using the "sneak up" method of making cuts. It will take you a while, but it will be the easiest way for a rookie to get great results. It is best to place on saw fence upside down and cut backwards. And these instructions are good for outside corners. Inside corners must be coped for best fit and gap prevention. Rent an electric miter box, no compound needed, and watch all the youtube videos that you can find. Thanks! I was just coming back to add UPSIDE DOWN to my instructions but couldn't edit my post. +1 on the youtube vids as well. |
| 2013-05-20 8:57 AM in reply to: pitt83 |
Master 2380 Beijing | Subject: RE: Crown moulding Originally posted by pitt83 So, basically,treat it like a straight cut and take the length measurements on the short, cabinet face side? Should I make a hold block on the table saw so that the fence accomodates holding that piece firmly? Here's a video where the guy shows the updside-down placement, as well a a fence that he made. You don't need a hold block, just hold it firmly with your hand. http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/set-up-a-miter-saw-to-c... Yes, make the measurements on the cabinet-face side. |
| 2013-05-20 9:05 AM in reply to: jsp8 |
Pro 6838 Tejas | Subject: RE: Crown moulding I just spent the afternoon installing crown moulding in the kid's bath. http://www.portamate.com/plans/PlansNOW_CrownMolding.pdf. The saw set-up on the bottom of page three is worth printing and keeping beside the saw for reference. Remember the base of the saw is the ceiling and the fence of the saw is the wall. Borrow or rent a miter saw!. I coped all of the joints except for one out side corner which I simply cut at 45s and fit it by trial and error. Coping took a little longer than using an angle finder and cutting each joint at that angle, but i think I got more precise fits by coping. I have a Dremel Multi tool that has a coping blade, but I guess a manual coping saw would be fine. Be sure to measure the height of the moulding and make some blocks to help mark that up from the top of page two. Pretty intimidating at first, but I managed just fine and am pretty happy with the results. They do sell a jig for this job, but i managed to do without it. Google crown moulding jig for some examples. Have fun! |
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