brick94513-GoGoGo Mentor Group - Closed For Now! (Page 31)

So.  Since everyone LOVED my last green smoothie so much, i decided to keep posting new ones :D.  ill spare you the picture, but this one looks like green nutella.

ingredients:

2 handfuls baby spring mix
1/2 bunch of kale
~12 baby carrots
1/3 cup chia seds
1 tsp spirulina ( this stuff smells like fishfood!)
4 huge strawberries
1 cup frozen mixed berries
1 banana
8 oz odwalla superfood
1 c almond milk
1/2 c orange juice
2 tbsp honey

Tim, you seem to know quite a bit about the bike, can you provide some info on cassettes, i.e. a 25-12, refers to the # of teeth or something?  And what about wheel types.  I was thinking about getting some 'cheap' everyday trainers, but don't really know what benefit it will provide over the wheels that came w/ my bike.  I have aluminum mavic aksium wheels, looking at easton EA 70s .  Or would I be better picking up something used from another rider that may have only used something for 1 season?  I posed this to Tim, but anyone can throw in an answer.

These numbers refer to teeth.  An 11-28 would be more suited for hilly, steep terrain.  Whereas, you could swap over to an 11-23 to give you more top end choices on flat terrain.  Those are the extremes with the other combinations lying in the middle.

As for a second set of wheels, most people will use two sets when they have expensive race wheels.  They want to keep wear and tear off these wheels and keep them pristine for race day.  When you have $2K-3k invested in race wheels, you don't really want to take the chance of damaging them on training rides.

Using this rationale, how much money are you saving by adding to your current wheelset?  Or, are you better off just training and racing on your current set?  On my tt bike, I have Mavic Krysium Elites that I use as my race and training wheels.  But, on my MTB, where I have a substantial amount of money invested in my race wheels, I do use a pricepoint wheelset for everyday training.

Hope that helps.  If not, ask away....

OWS canceled again tonight due to water quality.  Lifeguards stopped about 30 of us as we were entering the water at the cove!  We did Transition practices for 45 minutes instead.

I cant 'not' swim three days in a row.. so after Pledge of Allegiance tomorrow morning at my Princess’s school I'm headed in to the gym for a Pool workout.  Two more days till my first race!

6- and 7-speed hubs generally use 126 mm spacing, while 8-/9-speed hubs use 130 mm (road) or 135 mm (MTB/Hybrid).

Some folks will tell you that you also need to install a longer axle when doing this, but that's not correct. Typical rear QR axles are 11 mm longer than the over-locknut dimension of the hub, so there's 5.5 mm of axle sticking out past the locknuts. That's way more than is actually needed. If you are converting a 126 mm OLD 7-speed Freehub (137 mm axle length) to 8 or more speeds, the OLD goes to 130 mm. That will leave you 3.5 mm of protrusion on each side, once you move the right cone over to even things out. That's plenty.

In fact, no protrusion is truly necessary, but it's a convenience in wheel installation to have some protrusion. I once set up a bike with zero protrusion, where the axle was flush with the locknuts. (This was a fixed-gear with vertical dropouts, and I did it to give me a bit more chain tension adjustability.) I put a lot of hard miles on that bike; it never gave me a lick of trouble.

If you do re-space your hub, you'll also need to re-dish your wheel, because the extra space will all be added on the right side by installing the wider Freehub body. You'll need to tighten spokes on the right, possibly also loosen some on the left, to move the rim 2 mm to the right so that it will once again be centered in the frame.

In going to a wider hub spacing, you'll also need to deal with the frame spacing, but this is not as difficult as you might suppose.