Chaderbox and aquagirl's group ! CLOSED (Page 5)

WORKED! 

Welcome, Mike.  Glad to see you're making a comeback.  I'll help you with the bike (not really, since I don't like it that much) if you want to help my swim.

Well, I guess it's about time for us to earn our titles.  Does anyone have any questions about training, or any other aspects of fitness that we can help you with?

Yes, actually.

When walking, and also running it seems, the puny muscles between the knee and ankle, front lateral, cramp and hurt. Besides stretching, any idea's? Specific exercises that will help? Or just continue, and they will strengthen and stop hurting? Also, I noticed that it helps a bit if I push off more with the ground foot. Does this simply mean that I have been running incorrectly till now?

Also, I read that when starting to run after a long break it is better to run on grass for a few weeks, to get the joints and ligaments used to the pounding. Today the grass was covered with a very thin layer of snow (which is really annoying when in gets into the shoe, by the way), and it felt strange, a bit slippery. Do you think yaktrax would help?

Edited by r1237h 2011-01-21 5:45 PM

Ron, Yak Trax are designed for running in snow and ice..... I would think on grass with a bit of snow they will not really do much good. 

With regards to a return to running, the first and most important thing is to follow the plan the dude gave you, no more no less. Its normal for things to be achey and sore and weird at first. All those little muscles need to adapt.

When you say that when you pushed of with your "ground"foot what do you mean? You will find that "forefoot" running is quite in style right now, as is barefoot running or running with Vibrams.....but it is actually NOT a good idea to change the way you naturally run. If you want to tweak it a bit to a more  forefoot style, it must be done very gradually, or you run the risk of setting yourself up for injury.Could your awesome PT do a gait analysis on you? Basically, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. 

As for running surfaces, I am not a big fan if running on grass. I find it too uneven. You must keep adjusting your gait to deal with it. I try and stick to asphalt rather than concrete though...it is much "softer". Another alternative would be an indoor track, nice level soft surface. 

As for the "pounding".........well, I think you said a bad word and now must wash your mouth out with soap.    I am not fond of the term "pounding" when it comes to describing running. Your body is perfectly capable of absorbing the stresses of running as long as you give it ample time to adapt. The key here is TIME. Take the time to let your body slowly adapt to running. 

Finally, the area you describe thats sore could maybe benefit from the use of compression socks. You can wear them during your runs and after as well for recovery. They add some additional support. People that are prone to shin splints find that compression often helps.

So.....in a couple of months when I am allowed to start running again, can you please repeat everything that I just said??


 

Every part of me hurts tonight.  Not in the I did something I shouldn't have sort of way, more the I used muscles that I forgot I had in ways I didn't know they could be used sort of way.  Oddly, I think it's fantastic.  This is a big change for me, someone who has always felt that if it hurts, I shouldn't do it.
I'm impatiently waiting for Monday, when registration for an indoor triathlon at my gym opens.  Also for my W-2s, because I'm planning on getting a road bike if the return is enough.  Any suggestions?  (Chad, I do still have the list you emailed me last summer)
I didn't make it out for a long run this week, maybe tomorrow, but not really sure about that.  So I'll shoot for that again next week.

Ohhh, this is one of my big questions too.  I am starting my training plan in about 3 weeks (race not until July.)  I currently have a mountain bike and I am hoping to sell it and buy a road bike.  I have some questions about training already, but since it is still far-ish away, I've been saving them up until closer to the right time.  I am new to bike world, and I don't see myself spending thousands of dollars on a bike.  So, what is really important?  Basically, if you had to go bare bones for a bike, what would you decide you absolutely need and what is just a bell or whistle?  Thanks!!

Taking the " Master Strokes"  (I just love that name) swimming class has really helped.  It is tailored for the end goal being a tri.  

The next session I'm thinking about is a spinning class.   does spinning really translate to the road ?   I guess what i'm asking is ? Will I learn cycling techniqe in a spinning class, like I did with the swimming class. 


1*  in Ohio today.  

Trying to get motivated to run this afternoon.  So far I know where my shoes are....

My assumption when you say this is that you're talking about while the foot is on the ground, you're pusing more with your calf for your forward movement.  This will tend to happen when you're stride is more on point with where it should be, I feel.  Assuming, again, that you're not landing with your foot far out in front of your center of gravity. 

If you ask around in Tri Talk, or you just read in there a lot, you'll notice that eventually there will be a discussion about heel strike, mid-foot strike, and fore-foot strike.  Really, it doesn't matter as long as you're under your center of gravity. 

So in this situation, you're feeling that this "pushing" helps because, well, it does.  The pushing isn't the help though, I don't think.  It's more the bit right before the push, where your calf gets a little stretch, then it's in a better position to give you a great push.  I tend to notice the same thing with my running, and that's sort of the conclusion that I came to.  Keep in mind that I'm not a trainer, nor any sort of exercise guru.

There's no shame in doing your first few races on a mountain bike.  I did my first race on a mountain bike that was 4 years old, from Target. 

BUT if you have your heart set on a road bike, the main thing to remember is that it doesn't matter how pretty your bike is, if it doesn't fit.  If you're able to check out a few different bike shops, and a few different bikes at each, that would be best.  They should let you take them for a short ride to see how you like them.

As far as bells and whistles, I have a bare bones entry level bike, with Sora/Tiagra components.  It got me through a Half-Iron no problem.  That being said, you'll want clipless pedals and bike shoes.  Everything else should come on the bike that you'll need.  Oh, and a helmet.

The answer is ... maybe.

If your spin instructor is a cyclist, you'll get more of a cycling feel.  If it's more aerobics based, then it's just getting used to pedaling at a high cadence.

That's a GOOD painful kinda feeling! 

Regarding road bike purchasing:

I agree with Chad, in that the most important thing is fit. A good bike shop will be able to help you determine this. And keep in mind that this may vary between brands of bike as well. If you are told you need a 53 cm in a Trek, that same size may not fit you in say, a Giant.  Also, certain brands of bikes are actually better suited to certain body types, ie long legs vs short legs. Sorry if this sounds confusing...

Here is the way that I would go about it: first you have to decide on a budget. Once you know how much you can spend, then you can start to do your local research. Most bike shops will carry a few different brands..........so be prepared to visit as many as you can to really compare.

Lots of things will figure in to how expensive a bike is going to end up being. The material of the frame is a biggie: a full carbon frame is fabulous and  smooth and light as a feather, but you will pay big $$ for it. Aluminum is more common on entry level bikes, and these bikes will often have some parts that are carbon, such as the forks. This helps to give the bike a smoother feel and lightens it up a bit as well.

The next big cost factor will be the grouping of the gears: entry level bikes will use Tiagra or 105 sets, and as you spend more money you are looking at Ultegra or Dura Ace. The difference between them, is the smoothness and ease with which they shift. But the thing is that they will ALL shift just fine if they are properly maintained. The higher end sets tend to last a bit longer as well.

Some bike shops have their own "house brand" of bike. Same frame materials, same components, but instead of saying Trek or Cervelo or whatever on it, it is their own "brand". Something to keep in mind. Often this will be a less expensive way to get a quality bike. You are not paying for the name brand that way. Kinda like buying the No Name brands at the grocery store!

What about used bikes? This can be a great way to go, IF you can determine that the bike fits you. Say  for example, that during your foray into the local bike shops you found that a Trek Blah Blah fit you perfectly and was just the thing. Now if you were able to find that Trek Blah Blah on Craiglist or Ebay you might be able to score a sweet deal. But what you cannot really do is just blindly get a bike off those sights without really knowing if it will fit. 

Now having blathered on and on about all this stuff........ it really is perfectly fine to do your first few triathlons on a hybrid. Plenty of people do. No problem. 

Again, I agree with Chad here...unless the spinning instructor IS a real cyclist and tailors the workout that way you are really just getting cardio. I used to do a spinning class called RPM. Great workout, no doubt about it, but its not at all like cycling. The other thing to remember about spinning is that its not done on YOUR bike........it does not really help you to get used to the time spent with your butt on your actual bike. 

Well, well, well......its currently MINUS FORTY DGREES !
So cold that it is the same in F and C.
Needless to say, my kids are NOT going skiing today.


What is everybody doing today ? I have not been feeling terribly well the past few days........no energy at all. Ugh. Today I hope to ride my trainer AND maybe swim as well. We shall see how the day progresses.

 

Wow. I sure talk a lot .......perhaps I will shut up now. 

It's a whole 13° here, up from the -5° I woke up to.  I'm thinking about getting out for that 6 mile run I've been putting off, still not sure though.  I think a trip to Dicks or to the local ski shop is needed first, something to cover the face and mittens instead of my gloves so that I still have fingers when I get back.
I need to get to the library so I can print out my training plan for an Olympic distance tri.  Not that I have one in mind, I just don't see any good reason not to go for the longer distance.  The joys of not having a working printer.
Or maybe I'll just stay curled up with a blanket and finish reading "Shape Up With the Slow Fat Triathlete" and leave today as my recovery day...

You know, if you check here you can just follow along with a training plan of your choice...You wouldn't necessarily have to print it out.

Ran on the treadmill today for an hour.  Now off to work, boo.  I do have a couple of questions that are probably pretty stupid, but ya get to do that when you're new, right?  First, do they close roads for triathlons for the bike portion?  Just wondering about intersections mainly.  Second, what about passing on the bike?  They say no drafting, but you're going to get close in order to pass right?  Do you call out "on your left" so they know you're passing like you do on bike paths and such?  Not that I really think I'm going to be blowing by anybody since I'm just wanting to finish and enjoy the race, but these are just little questions I've been wondering about.

Speaking of training plans, I just created one here (on BT,) but now I am having second thoughts.  I used the custom training schedule tool (so cool, enter in a start date, and race date and viola-plan.)  I love love love myself a good plan to follow, but I just sort of picked one, and set up my "short run, long run, ect." days in a way that I thought would be manageable with my family's schedule.  However, I only left myself one rest day, is that fine?  I won't start until mid-feb, can't officially run yet (lame-o stress fracture.)  Or is it better for me to go with one of the plans already created?  Does this question even make sense?  I just don't feel confident in customizing a plan when I don't really know what I am doing I guess.

Okay, sorry one more question.  I am not currently riding a bike at all.  I also currently don't really have a bike (mountain bike gone, need to shop around) but if I want to begin some sort of riding should I use a random stationary bike at the gym?  I've never used one of those.  I do go to spin class, but as already discussed it may or may not be good prep work.  If I do use a stationary bike, what setting should I put it on? 

No such thing as a stupid question!!!
The roads are not necessarily closed. I have done races in both scenarios. When the roads remain open to cars, there are usually cops at the intersections that stop the cars so that you do not have to stop your bike.
And as for passing, there are specific USAT rules about how quickly you must pass, I will try and look it up. But basically, if you want to pass someone you do indeed call out " on your left" and must pass quickly and then get out in front . And if you are the one being passed, you cannot just zoom up and suck on their draft,,,,,,,you must drop back a little. 
Make sense? 

I think in the case where you do not HAVE a bike, then you are much better off riding a spin bike. It is much more like real cycling as opposes to a regular gym stationary bike.
Generally it goes like this :
road riding > trainer rides >  spin bike > stationary bike > no riding at all !