brick94513-GoGoGo Mentor Group - Closed For Now! (Page 51)

Of all the skills, I rate wading as the most important. So often races are won or lost at the start, and if you can't wade, it's hard to come from behind. Wading involves two actions:

i. Running and
ii. Porpoising.

A strong wader has an advantage from the start. He or she can be in the water and swimming as others founder.  It is harder to catch someone while you are swimming than when you are both running.  And as you should already know, most surf races (and that includes craft events) are won by the time the field reaches the buoys. Not everyone can wade well (may be it's something to do with genes), but everyone can improve. If you are a good runner, then you've got a head start. However, WADING IS NOT RUNNING.

The major differences between wading and running are that in wading:

a. Leg action is high and to the side, and
b. There is great emphasis on stomach muscles.

Legs must be lifted high, yet to the side, to enable a competitor to jump over waves (up to a certain height). The side action is similar to that of a hurdler, and there is great strain on the thigh and inner-thigh muscles. To assist in development, cycling and/or squats are thigh extension exercises should be a part of training. The legs come around to the side, with toes pointed backwards on exit from the water (to stop the wave from impeding your progress through the break).

Once a competitor has negotiated the break to about waist depth, wading becomes too difficult, because the legs cannot be lifted through the water.  Once your maximum depth has been reached, you should switch to porpoising, or forward-plunging, under or over waves.  Whether you plunge under, or over, is up to you, and can only be determined through trial and error, and what you believe to be your skill level.

Porpoising is usually only done for a short distance, as once you reach waist depth the water depth increases rapidly. On average you will do between three to six "porpoises".  Most competitors seem to be able to porpoise at about the same standard (i.e., there's not much distance to be gained here).  However, certain techniques can give you a slight edge, and any edge is better than none.

The porpoise should also be used as a time of consolidation, both physically and mentally. When you porpoise you should be controlling your breathing and using this brief time to survey where you are in relation to the buoys and the rest of the field. A mistake can be either made or corrected at this stage of the race.

iii. Wave-diving

Included in the porpoising section is a competitor's ability to master diving to the sea bed before a wave hits.  Judging whether to dive over or under a wave will come with time and practice.  Eventually, only you can be the judge, as it will depend on your physical make-up and ability to perform the task.

In this section, more than any, there are more variables that any stage of the race. Here, particularly in big seas, you are at the mercy of the ocean.  More so than porpoising, wave-diving is as essential as wading. Timing and technique are critical. Competitors can lose many metres if they fail to dive early enough and are knocked back by the force of the wave.  Conversely, if a competitor goes for the bottom too early, he or she can run out of breath while waiting for the wave to pass overhead. It's all a matter of timing, and knowing when to dive. As with all surf skills, this is a matter of practice.

The way the dive is effected is important. 

you are diving under. (This will enable you to know how long you should stay under, and if you have to be prepared to take another quick breath once the first wave has passed).Dive right to the bottom if possible*. The angle of the dive should be at least 45 degrees. If you dive at a greater angle and you haven't timed the dive correctly, you will be forced back by the wave, because your body is in a more upright position. If you dive at anything less than 45 degrees you will take longer to reach the bottom.

Once on the bottom, grab the sand and bring your feet under your hands to prepare for the push-off. Grabbing the sand will stop you from being forced back by the wave. You will know if the wave has passed, either by looking (yes, under water) or by feel and/or sound.