Biking for Idiots
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I have a few newbie questions, probably bordering on "idiot" level. 1) If I use my mountain bike on dirt/gravel trails (flat w/ some rolling hills) and bike 10 miles an hour, can anyone estimate what my pace might be on a mostly flat paved road using same bike but slick tires? 2) Next yr, I will learn to use clipless pedals, but this summer, I have too many other things I'm trying to learn. Will putting those cages on my pedals help with speed? 3)And finally, will wearing bike shoes for 13 miles be worth it or should I just wear my running shoes to bike and run. This is a sprint. Thanks! |
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![]() LaurenCO - 2009-06-18 2:24 PM I have a few newbie questions, probably bordering on "idiot" level. 1) If I use my mountain bike on dirt/gravel trails (flat w/ some rolling hills) and bike 10 miles an hour, can anyone estimate what my pace might be on a mostly flat paved road using same bike but slick tires? 2) Next yr, I will learn to use clipless pedals, but this summer, I have too many other things I'm trying to learn. Will putting those cages on my pedals help with speed? 3)And finally, will wearing bike shoes for 13 miles be worth it or should I just wear my running shoes to bike and run. This is a sprint. Thanks! 1. Not sure - someone else who knows more about bikes might be able to answer, but my guess is that there is no "exact" answer for this, other than yes, slicks will help some, and paved roads are faster than dirt trails. 2. Yes, cages are better than platforms without cages, since you can utilize a fuller pedal stroke, than just mashing down with your quads. You'll get a little more power. 3. If you have toe cages, you should just wear sneakers. The special cycling shoes are only necessary if you are using a clipless system. Just wear your sneakers and you'll have a super-fast T2 |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I don't know the answer to #1, but try it. Take your bike on the road. Put the slicks on if you already own them. Train like you plan to race. Cages will help you apply power more evenly around the pedal stroke. You'll need to train in them to get the benefit, otherwise they just make mounting the bike harder and more likely to crash at the mount line. If using flats or toe clips (cages) just use your running shoes. You'll save time in transition. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Not sure about number 1 but for number 2 and 3 yes and wear tennis shoes. You also may want to look in to a pedal system calle PowerGrips. It is what I use on my bike (was mainly a commuter till recently) and they work extremely well, are easy to get into and out of, lightweight, and easily adjustable. (not affiliated in any way just REALLY like them ![]() |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I'd respectfully disagree on the running shoes with cages issue. Cycling shoes are built the way they are (rigid shank) to deliver power to the pedal (and also protect your feet from stresses of pedaling)--running shoes are inherently meant to flex and disperse the force of impact. I rode (and raced) with cages on my road bike my first year doing tris and wore inexpensive/lightweight Shimano MTB shoes and just didn't have cleats on them. |
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![]() tcovert - 2009-06-18 2:53 PM I'd respectfully disagree on the running shoes with cages issue. Cycling shoes are built the way they are (rigid shank) to deliver power to the pedal (and also protect your feet from stresses of pedaling)--running shoes are inherently meant to flex and disperse the force of impact. I rode (and raced) with cages on my road bike my first year doing tris and wore inexpensive/lightweight Shimano MTB shoes and just didn't have cleats on them. And in the interest of the thread currently going on and on, I'm going to say that I was going on the notion of simplicity. For your first race, or first few races, it's not NECESSARY. Esp. since it's 13 miles on a mountain bike with toe cages. How much time and power is wearing mtb/cycling shoes REALLY going to save or gain? Let's be honest. For the vast majority of newb triathletes who maybe don't have all the gear and don't want to spend a lot, sneakers are absolutely fine. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Some of it depends on the suspension of the bike and your set up. I have my mountain bike set up where I'm a little farther back and I use a smaller bike for better control for some of the gnarlier stuff. ![]() If I set my rear shock with a high pressure and lock out the front shock, I can get 20+ with slicks on my mountain bike. The trails around here can have some pretty hard clay on them so sometimes I can hit 20+ with knobby tires. You have to have the pressure up pretty high (about 60) to do that though. Makes for the rest of the ride kind of rough and little tough getting traction in the sand. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I already had my Shimano MTB shoes so I wore those for my first tri. I tried bricks both with and without and noticed a significant difference even at around the 8-10 mi mark. My T1 was 30 seconds and my T2 was 25 seconds, so I think it was worth the shoe switch. Then again, I did lose one place in my AG by two seconds, but it was to a BTer, so I ain't too upset. ![]() That said, I definitely wouldn't go out and drop coin on shoes. The cages though, absolutely. Even if you don't pull up with them, they keep your foot much more securely on the pedal. And, well, you should pull up with them. Besides, cages are only what, $5-10? Just make sure you practice mounts/dismounts before your race. I mounted with the cages flipped, them turned them once I was rolling. |