General Discussion Triathlon Talk » Need help understanding spare tubular etc. Rss Feed  
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2012-09-20 8:58 AM

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Alexandria, MN
Subject: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.

I've been able to pick up bits and pieces of information about racing with tubulars, what to carry on race day etc., but I'm hoping someone can put it all together for me.

I race on Zipp tubulars.  My next big race is IM AZ.  So far, in all my other races on those wheels I've been lucky and taken my chances by not carrying anything in terms of flat protection, with the exception of a can of Pit Stop.  Right now I'm in the process of ordering a proper rear hydration/flat kit carrying setup, I'm leaning towards an Xlab wing with two bottle cages and their bag that fits underneath it all.

How exactly does it work, and what should I buy to fit in that bag?  Instead of spare tubes, do I need to buy a spare tubular tire and which one?  Is that something I'll realistically be able to change out in the middle of a race and still finish?  Can I just buy an inexpensive, "worst case scenario" tubular tire to get me through the race, then plan on having to buy a new, good tire afterwards?

Thanks for the basics!



2012-09-20 3:00 PM
in reply to: #4420070

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Subject: RE: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.

You are on the right track here, no doubt.

I train and race on Zipp Tubulars as well and had these exact questions just 6 months ago...we've all been there.

1st - you should practice removing and reinstalling a tubular well before race day, just in case! You certainly don't want race day to be the first time you've ever done it! Lot's of videos on YouTube to help...or just take your wheel into your local bike shop and see if they will be kind enough to walk you through it.

2nd - I used the Xlab with the 2 cages and the "Kona" bag on my P3 for my first IM in July. I put a new tubular tire in there, along with 2 cans of Pit Stop, 2 Co2 Cartridges and the adapter for the Co2. (Pit Stop will get you about 75-85 PSI...which will work but you may want to top it off for AZ)

(I carry just a can of Pit Stop on training rides, except I'll carry a spare tubular for 5+ hour rides.)

I applied a very light coat of glue to the spare about a week in advance...it was nice and dry, but still tacky, when I folded it up to put in the Kona bag. 

If/when you flat on a training ride or during the race, first check the tire for anything obvious. The Pit Stop should work for any very small, pin-hole type leaks. If you find a cut more than about 1/16 of an inch, go ahead and try the Pit Stop, but it's unlikely to work. (As for using the Pit Stop, you'll want to hold the can on the valve firmly, but not too hard...it will take 25 to 40 seconds for it to fill your tire. The first time I tried it i was expecting a 2-3 second fill...when I didn't sense much happening after a few seconds I pushed REALLY hard, thinking nothing was going in and it sprayed white foamy stuff all over me! not fun!) After it is done filling, immediately spin the tire for maybe 10 to20 seconds to let the stuff find the hole and fill it. Wait a minute and check the spot where it was leaking. If it is not leaking, you are good to go. Entire stop should have only been 2 minutes at this point.

If the Pit Stop did not work, or you found a large gash, you'll need to remove the tire and install your spare. Be sure all of the air is out of the bad tire. Then work one area with your thumbs, back and forth from both sides to break the glue bond. (also check YouTube for videos on this...very helpful). You'll then start to push/pull the tire off of the wheel...you'll need to use your body weight over the wheel, pushing the tire down. Once you get it about 1/3 of the way off, it will peal off pretty easily. 

To put the new tire on, insert the valve stem (be sure you have the right size for your Zipp wheels as the standard valve stems that come with most wheels will be too short. (I use the Vittoria Corsa CX with removeable Valve Stems and replace them with the longer ones...I think 66mm, but check with the bike shop. Then start working the tire onto the wheel, be sure to "stretch" the wheel a bit while putting it on. You should be able to get the old wheel off in about 1-2 minutes tops and the new one on in another 60 seconds. The old glue on the wheel + the new glue on the new tire will be "good enough" to let you finish your race...just be cautious of any sharp turns as you'll be at risk of rolling the tire off of the wheel since it's not been properly re-glued. (You'll do that post-race!

I hope this helps...let me know if you have additional questions...but be sure to search for YouTube videos on this.

Good luck!

2012-09-21 3:23 PM
in reply to: #4420070

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Subject: RE: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.
Wow, thanks a ton for taking the time to write that great post.  Very helpful.  Is there a particular tubular tire that is more suited to being used as a spare, maybe one that folds up better or is easier to install on the roadside with no proper tools?
2012-09-21 5:39 PM
in reply to: #4420070

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Subject: RE: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.
Agree with everything said,but just wanted to add that if you are using a truly "new" tubular make sure you pre-stretch it for a couple days.  This will help make it go on much easier.  I carry my old conti as a spare so its nicely stretched and pops on in a jiffy.
2012-09-22 5:27 PM
in reply to: #4422661

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Subject: RE: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.

No worries, happy to help!

I just take a spare of my normal tire, the Vittoria Corsa CX. If you want the smallest, lightest tubular, I understand the best choice is the Tufo Elite Jet...it rolls up to about the same size as a tube that goes into a clincher tire...and is only like 150g. It is not, however a very tough or durable tire. 

FYI...I also put Stan's sealant into my tubes before mounting them as a preventative measure.

2012-09-26 2:10 AM
in reply to: #4422661

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Tucson, AZ
Subject: RE: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.
I don't ride tubulars anymore but when I did I used to use the following.  You can't find a tire that rolls up smaller: http://www.thomasgerlach.com/2011/10/gold-standard-gear-best-tubular-spare.html


2012-09-26 7:04 AM
in reply to: #4420070

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Lansdale, PA.
Subject: RE: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.

Hey guys thanks for some really good advice!

When I first went to carbon tubulars I used to carry all the fixings to change 2 flats mounted under my rear hydration. By the time I put bottles on board this stuff weighted about as much as my bike. Not to mention the aero advantages were destroyed by all of this stuff.

http://beginnertriathlete.com/discussion/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=7233&photoid=103747

Then I discovered Pitt Stop. The experiences of several of my friends plus the online reviews convinced me to stop the madness of all this baggage. Thus far it has not been a problem but perhaps some day I will regret it. I never even considered a tire like this but this may be the holy grail. Light weight, packable and gives me a nice safety net just in case.  

I have heard of using Stan's liquid in my tubulars but never tried it. I have had great luck for years on my mountain bikes so I plan on setting my tires up with it at the beginning of next season. 

2012-09-27 4:38 PM
in reply to: #4420070

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Subject: RE: Need help understanding spare tubular etc.
I raced and trained on Tubulars a few seasons ago. Did well over 5,000 training miles that season. Found that Tufo extreme sealant worked the best for me. Pit Stop is attractive because it should seal and inflate at the same time, I could never get it to work.

When I did my first IM distance race (2005) I got 3 flats. First two I fixed with Tufo sealant, 3rd time I put the spare tire on (one of my used tires that was stretched and glued all ready). Since then I've just carried sealant on the bike and spare CO2's during races. Flatted two years ago at Lk Stevens 70.3 and was able to seal the tire with the Tufo stuff and finish the race no problem.
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