Eliwashere's spring fling mentor group!-Full (Page 4)

Randi - I'm definitely with Warren here. Just be glad you are trying at all. That's a huge step. It takes time and at least you are giving it a go. A group of my friends here are wickedly fast (one of them qualified for Boston next year)...but I have learned (slowly, over time) that their stories and history is completely different than mine - so their capabilities are going to be completely different than mine. What is important (at least for me) is that I am attempting to do something I never thought I could do. As long as I am making progress towards my yearly goals - I'm pretty happy.

I would recommend lots of calf stretching for the shin issues...maybe stand on a curb or a step with your toes on the step and your heel hanging off the back, focusing on one leg at a time - holding the stretch for at least 30 seconds.

For the black toenails - haven't had that problem (yet)...but I have noticed after really long runs (10+ miles), my toenails on my big toes are very sensitive. I would definitely think about new shoes.

Thanks to everyone for the moral support.  This is all weird for me.  I know that I am never going to be the front of the pack and really don't care.  My desire to get better is totally internally driven.  I think that just because I am always in the last swim wave or out on the bike or run all by myself, it is not much different than my training where it is just me pushing myself.  I just want to continue to improve and progress.  Unfortunately the shin issue seems to hold me back at times - like yesterday but I am getting much better at listening to my body and knowing when to HTFU and when to call it a day.  Yesterday was a call it a day type day.
 
I wish I knew what caused the  shin cramping.  To answer some of your question,  yes, I have done the walk/run split.   That is how I originally started a couple of years ago and resorted back to the tried and true.   I would start at 8 minutes walking and 30 secs running/jogging and worked my way up to be able to run for the entire 5 k distance and was so proud of myself and loving every minute of it.   Unfortunately at the moment, I can't get past the brisk walk part starting about 4 minutes in.     

I use a lap counter when I walk on the track at the Y since I know 18 laps is a mile.  It also gives me a time for each lap.  Yesterday I did start off faster than I probably should have yesterday and could easily be why the cramping was so bad.  

My plan to conquer this is:
1.  Keep track of which sneakers I am wearing - the ones with the superfeet or the ones without 
2. Do some warm up stretches - as Eli suggested - pointing and flexing is one I have not tried. I  also "write" the alphabet with my foot.
3. Start off MUCH slower for the first half mile (9 laps) than I have been to get warmed up before picking up the pace walking before I even try to add the running component back into things.
4.  Keep detailed notes on each training session in hopes to figure it all out.

That sounds like a great plan.  I thought I was the only one doing the alphabet thing with my feet.  My trainer in high school had me do those after a terrible ankle sprain, and I still that during meetings and such at work.  Old school!

As someone who never exercised or ran, I would NEVER have known it is old school.  Another stretch that I was told to try is walking on my heels but I am afraid that is going to cause a flair up of the PF.  Just wondering,  would tight calves cause cramping on the shins?

Randi

I know that tight calves can cause shin splints...cramping? Don't know. Seems like it's worth a try!

I finally found some shoes that felt good in every way today - so I bought two pairs! They're not going to save my six toenails from falling off, but hopefully they have a positive effect on my shoulder issue.

And tight calves could very easily be part of my problem! I have an ongoing soleus issue in my left leg, so it makes a lot of sense.

New Bike Question

I said I was riding a hybrid right now but realized that I was thinking of my wife's bike when I was answering the tire question.  I actually have a Mountain bike with normal pedals.

I have begun to notice that when riding I am getting a lot of wind resistance and have begun to think about buying a new bike.  I fully realize that I will never win a triathlon or really care about that but do want to make sure I have fun.  The issue is I really don't think I want to spend a ton of money on a bike, 600 - 800 bucks would be tops of my budget.  In this price range can I get a decent road bike that I can use for awhile that will outperform my 250$ Diamondback.

I know I don't need to get a new bike but I kind of would like one, but I am wondering if I can upgrade significantly without spending a grand or more.

Not sure if I really asked a question or not but am looking for comments or advise.

Also if I don't get a new bike should I invest in shoes and clipless pedals,  Years ago when I was riding trails a lot I used Pedal Clips but never used clipless.  Seems like there would be a learning curve to using them.

I completed my first 3 triathlons on a used Steel-framed Huffy road bike that I had added clipless pedals to.   The chain was slightly rusted and it was too small for me.  Crazy thing is that I had a good hybrid that I had changed the tires to slicks and could have easily used that bike for triathlons but someone  (can't remember who) told me I would do better on the road bike.  The huffy did serve me well enough.   There was a definite learning curve for the clipless pedals but are definitely worth the crashes I took.  Wiped out right in front of the house on the first attempt terribly bruising both calves, my thigh hands, arms, etc and my ego but got back up and have gotten pretty good at it.  I would be lying if I said that my heart doesn't race when I sometimes think about my feet being attached to my pedals if I had to stop quickly but it is getting easier and easier every time I get out there.  They say when you go to clipless, it is not if you fall but when.  I am hoping I got all mine out of the way in the beginning.

This year with our tax return money,  my husband and I both bought brand new Specialized Road Bikes.  He got the Secteur Sport and I got the Dolce Sport Compact.    We paid $800 for each and am totally thrilled with them.  You do have to keep in mind that you will have to buy clipless pedals and shoes too since you don't have them or you can get by for the time-being with toe cages which would be better than just the regular pedals but not as good and efficient as the clipless.    For what I do in triathlons, I think this bike is all I will need for a long time.  I am not looking to podium so I don't need the tri bike or the high-end components.  

There are options:
1.  Make due with what you have until you figure out what you expect out of competing in triathlons - compete for yourself and just improve or compete and hope to medal and then buy whatever bike fits that need (middle of the road bike or high end)
2.  Invest in a $600-$800 bike now and use it for as long as you desire or until you can afford to upgrade or buy the high-end bike of your dreams
3.  Invest in the high end bike now and call it a day

I went through this and feel that the bike I bought will serve me well for years to come.  I am out there for myself and don't need the expensive, high end, ultra light components on a road bike or tri bike (although I do love looking at them- totally sweet bikes!).

Just some things to think about.  Ultimately which bike depends on which LBS you use since I am a huge proponent of supporting the LBS.  They are the ones that are there to help me when I need it and guaranteed the fit.  We went with Specialized because of recommendations on BT that it has the better frame than Trek (same or comparable components for the same price range) and the LBS that I wanted to buy from happens to be a Specialized dealer.

Jenna,  good luck with your new shoes.  Hope they help!

Oooh, gear! What did you get?


Edited by eliwashere 2010-04-20 8:30 PM

Charlie, my 2 cents:
1. The wind resistance thing can somewhat be fixed with a good fit on a decent road bike with Aero bars. Or, a tri bike. I have recently had the chance to change to a tri bike, and I notice that the wind doesn't affect me as much. I also go the chance to ride a real road bike last weekend. I don't think it was as fast as the tri bike in the wind, but pretty good.
2. You can often find a great deal on used stuff at the start and end of the tri season. I would say now, or in like Oct-November is when to look for used gear.
3. Ask your local LBS if they have any deals. They can often build you a bike on a used frame for way less than a new bike, but with all new components.
4.  For new...check out the bicycling magazine from two months ago. It has a huge range of bikes that were reviewed. I would think that you can get something decent for 800.
5. Clipless pedals-I love it. There is a learning curve, and you may eat some pavement, but this is probably the biggest bang for your buck as far as improved efficiency. More of your energy is transfered to the bike. Bike Nashbar has their own brand of shoe and pedal and a set can be had for less than 100 shipped. I know, because that is what I use. 
Is the diamonback a hardtail? Any front suspension? Can it be locked?
If you switched to slicks and maybe locked the suspension that might help. I would think that you can find a used roadie in decent shape in your price range. You will notice a difference.
However, it really is the engine in the end! 

Oh, and Randi is right on as well!

Edited by eliwashere 2010-04-20 8:39 PM

Warren, I am online a lot. i have been very busy recently, but I like to share my opinions as well.
I think the more posts the merrier, as long as we stay polite. 

I got Sauconys this time around. I have a hard time finding shoes that properly fit every part of my foot. I have yet to find one brand that strikes the right cord every time, but I have had good luck with Saucony in the past. I almost went with some Asics but decided to go a little lighter weight.

I totally agree with Eli about the need for clipless pedals. Learning to use them was the scariest part for me, especially the first time I rode in traffic. Now I wouldn't even think about riding without them. It is worth the time and trauma!!

My bike journey has seen me very quickly progress from a hybrid to a roadie to a tri bike. I never spent a lot of money, but I did spend more than I intended to originally. I think that triathlon for me is how I choose to honour my own needs and so I want to make sure that I enjoy it fully and feel like I am getting the most out of it possible. I was not happy riding my hybrid bike, to the point where jealousy over fellow riders was making me crazy, so I went with a road bike. I loved it and it improved my performance immensely. I only ever used it for triathlon training though, and so I decided that I might as well step up to a tri bike since I don't need a road bike for commuting or group rides, etc. I found a used one that I love (although I freely admit that it doesn't fit me 100% and next time I will buy new to make it perfect) and riding is really a joy (although not so much on the trainer).

Long story short, buy within your budget but buy whatever is going to make the sport enjoyable for you. None of us are in this to become professional (I don't think??) so balance your need to have fun with your desire for performance and follow your gut. If the bike makes you unhappy, it's the wrong bike. Period.

But Eli, speaking of tri bikes in the wind, are you supposed to be able to stay aero when it's windy?? Because I have literally almost been blown off my bike a few times already this season. Am I doing something wrong?

Jenna,
Staying aero while it is windy can be tricky. More than anything, it just takes practice.
Obviously, the more across the wind is, the more difficult it will be to stay on in gusts. 

I bought my first road bike (used) this year for about 500.  It is a high quality bike with high quality components, just about 10 years old.  The way I think is that the fastest of the fast 10 years ago, with state of the art albeit 10 year old technology now, were probably 10 times faster than I will ever want to be.  I had it fit at my local bike shop, and I will ride this bike forever.  Bike, fitting, old spd shoes and pedals total came to about 850.  I could have saved a little money on top of that, but I decided to have the handlebars replaced and some other work done to it.  I now have a really cool 10 year old roadie that I will ride forever.  I will probably throw some clip on aero bars for my olympic distance tri this year, but besides that, I love it as it is, and will probably commute with it forever.  get a good cheap comfortable professionally fitted used bike and upgrade if you ever get the chance.  If you never get the chance to upgrade, oh well, you will have a great bike to ride as far as you want to!
Dave.

One more note about new vs. used bikes-
Bikesdirect.com has incredible deals. You need to do some assembly, or get your LBS to help out.
However, they are good deals. I have a friend who rides one of the motobecanes, and she is FAST on it.
It is sort of the middle ground. The bikes aren't always sexy there, but they work, are new, and give you a lot of choice. 

I concur with the thoughts on the bike...get one that you are comfortable with - you can find pretty good used ones around - talk to your LBS, they might know of a bike that was in a wreck but that has some good components you can use.

I currently have a beautiful road bike I bought back in 1996...I have upgraded almost all of the components and am looking at new handlebars/stem this year. I have considered a new bike (hence the name "chain dropper"), but it's not in the cards this year...I will start looking at the end of this season, though to take advantage of end of the season sales/someone wanting to upgrade after this season, etc.

About clipless pedals - yes, you will fall, but the translation of effort for the entire circular stroke (as opposed to just pushing down on the pedal) is TOTALLY worth any embarassment/pain. In addition to propelling during the whole cycle, it will even out your stroke which will be much more efficient. To help get used to them, you might set your bike up on your trainer and practice clipping in and out under different circumstances until you are used to the necessary flick of your heel before you head outside.

Of course - if you get a new bike - PICTURES please!

So...I am between plans right now.
There are a few local events coming up, but I am starting to think I need to get organized for IM cozumel.
My plan is to find a 16-20 week program that is designed for someone coming from a relatively solid base.
I also can't, or won't, do something that requires 20 hours a week. I can do MAYBE 10 on a regular basis, and some peaks of 15-17.
Most of the plans on BT seem to be higher volume, so I have started looking for stuff that follows the higher intensity lower volume philosophy.
So far, between the FIRST and using higher intensities to stay at or near my peak the last few weeks, I have been happy with higher intensity training.
Plus, I get more time to have my but kicked in monopoly by my 7 year old. 
If any of you know of a good book or plan, shoot it my way. Most of the good stuff I have found is geared towards cyclists, so I am cobbling something together on my own right now. 

I used bikesdirect and got a bike for 600 with Shimano 105 shifters and Ultegra derailleurs a few years ago and I'm very happy.  I've ridden in the Pan-Mass twice on it (192 mile 2 day charity ride) and it's been great.  It's not a top end bike, but it doesn't limit me - but I'm definitely not fast!

Buying online can be tricky and scary.  I have some friends who are total cycle heads, so they really helped me pick one out and help with (they do) all my maintenance, so that gave me some confidence buying online.  I would like to support local businesses, but getting the same components on a similar frame would have cost at least twice the price at a shop, and I couldn't justify the extra 600 to the finance committee.

And Charlie, when you go clipless - promise to relay your story.  We all fall at some point - my first one was at a stop sign with about 30 other cyclists in the Pan-Mass.  Very embarrassing but fun!

Just called my LBS and they will help with Assembly for Bikes bought on-line(60$), so that makes that option that much more palatable.  I would like to support my LBS but I was seeing price differences of 400 - 500 bucks.  That is a huge difference.  My only concern would be getting a good fit, but I think I will stop by the LBS tonight to talk to them about that as well.  I wouldn't mind paying them a couple of bucks to help out with that if they are willing. They offer a fitting service for 70$ no matter where you bought the bike.  Just need to make sure I buy a bike that will fit.

Do you think the size guidlines on BikeDrict are pretty accurate?

Just called my LBS and they will help with Assembly for Bikes bought on-line(60$), so that makes that option that much more palatable.  I would like to support my LBS but I was seeing price differences of 400 - 500 bucks.  That is a huge difference.  My only concern would be getting a good fit, but I think I will stop by the LBS tonight to talk to them about that as well.  I wouldn't mind paying them a couple of bucks to help out with that if they are willing. They offer a fitting service for 70$ no matter where you bought the bike.  Just need to make sure I buy a bike that will fit.

Do you think the size guidlines on BikeDrict are pretty accurate?

Eli, I totally get the wanting more time to get my butt kicked by my (13 and 11) year olds.  The games change to Stratego and similar, but the concept is the same.

My "coach" (the PT who got me into this crazy sport) is an Endurance Nation IM finisher.  Their plans are lower volume, higher intensity.  They actually have a ton of free stuff, so you don't have to join or buy one of their plans to get the gist what they preach.  Rich Strauss, the founder, posts here on BT and has answered a few of my messages, so he's very accessible and helpful.  I'm planning on using their long course manual as a guide and tailoring my plan using their ideas as a base starting point.

They have a VERY different approach, but it seems to have worked for a lot of different levels of triathletes.  Essentially they have a base (8-10 week) period they call general prep, which is repeated over and over again, and a "it's on" (8-10 week) period, which they call race prep.  They don't do the "build three weeks and take a recovery week", but keep a pretty consistent weekly schedule, with just a few really big volume weeks.

I will ask Leigh if it's ok the share the manual so you can at least look it over - it's free online so I doubt there's any problem, but if not you can just get it for the cost of an email address.

Warren,
Thanks, I have looked at their site and received some of the free materials.
My only concern is that I don't have a power meter, and I believe all of their plans use power. 

The reason I won't trust size guidelines anymore is that I bought my current bike used from a woman who was the exact same size as me, and it's too small. It fit her fine - she rode it for years and completed multiple IMs - but it's too small for me. Now I took it to the LBS and they swapped out the seatpost, saddle, and stem to make it fit better, but it's not perfect. In the future, I would get sized on something before I bought it.

But when you're rolling the dice with an online purchase, the size guidelines are a good place to start! And if you're saving $400-500 on the bike itself, you should have some leftover wiggle room money if you need to start making other adjustments too.