General Discussion Triathlon Talk » New Bike, Bike fit Questions Rss Feed  
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2011-10-26 7:13 AM


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Subject: New Bike, Bike fit Questions
Finished my first tri season (several sprints, and a century ride) on my trusty 1991 Raliegh Olympian (cleaned it up a little with new tires, bar tape etc.).I'm ready to bring my ride into the 21st century but still aren't sold on breaking the bank (I do tris for the fun, not to necessarily get on a podium. Solid MOP finishes this year. Next year would like to do an Oly but I think that may be my peak aspiration (No IM or HIMs)since I'm really not a great runner - but who knows)There are several LBS in town including one that only does custom work. Spent some time talking to the owner who didn't hard sell me on custom (though I'm sure they'd love me to drop the $ on one of their bikes (min 4.5k) but they did try to sell me on a fitting (several hundred in a several hr process). They use this pretty fancy computerized stationary bike with video and computer analysis. They charge several hundred for the process and apply the cost to the purchase of a custom bike (a drop in the bucket). Even if I didn't purchase custom (they work with Seven, Serrata and several others) I could use theinfo from the fitting to help me purchase a stock model elsewhere (they could make the minor adjustments in the bike as best they can within manufacturing limits.)Questions:-Is this fitting process worth it?-Is there that much difference between going custom and buying a decent stock model? ( yes cost)-They said the lowest end custom is 4.5k which made my jaw drop but said if steel was used it would save about 1k (a little heavier than titanium). Any opinions on steel?-Would doing the fitting, buying a less expensive stock model (using the fitting suggestions) and coming back for adjustments be the best and most cost effective option?- Given my goals would getting a better road bike (putting aero bars on) be the best option vs a tri bike (saw a tri bike for as little as 2k in a flyer from ?performance or was it nashbar)?I suspect anything I do will be an "improvement" over "old bessie" with her shifters on the downbar. Also I have clipless SPD pedals and shoes that I've used for spinning at the gym. I can walk in the shoes (probobly more like mtn bike shoes). Is it worth changing these (pedals and shoes) to more conventional road shoes and pedals?Looking to have fun, get fit, but winning isn't the main goal.


2011-10-26 7:24 AM
in reply to: #3738408

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Pro
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, New Hampshire
Subject: RE: New Bike, Bike fit Questions
First, punctation please... this was NOT easy to read.

You may want to take to other shops in your area as well... getting a bike fit first is always recommended, but many shops do allow this investment to be used towards the purchase of a bike (many times there's a minimum though, but I've never heard anyone say that they would only apply it towards custom frames only...). A bike fit will ensure you get the best possible geometry for you, your needs/goals, etc.

When you buy a bike fit, don't look at the tools they use (video analysis, computers, fit bikes etc.), but buy the fitter. Talk to local cyclists, or ask here for recommendations in your area. The fitter is what makes the difference.
2011-10-26 8:08 AM
in reply to: #3738408

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Subject: RE: New Bike, Bike fit Questions
I read about half of it and gave up. 
2011-10-26 11:09 AM
in reply to: #3738408

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Subject: RE: New Bike, Bike fit Questions

gzh6464 - 2011-10-26 5:13 AM Finished my first tri season (several sprints, and a century ride) on my trusty 1991 Raliegh Olympian (cleaned it up a little with new tires, bar tape etc.).I'm ready to bring my ride into the 21st century but still aren't sold on breaking the bank (I do tris for the fun, not to necessarily get on a podium. Solid MOP finishes this year. Next year would like to do an Oly but I think that may be my peak aspiration (No IM or HIMs)since I'm really not a great runner - but who knows)There are several LBS in town including one that only does custom work. Spent some time talking to the owner who didn't hard sell me on custom (though I'm sure they'd love me to drop the $ on one of their bikes (min 4.5k) but they did try to sell me on a fitting (several hundred in a several hr process). They use this pretty fancy computerized stationary bike with video and computer analysis. They charge several hundred for the process and apply the cost to the purchase of a custom bike (a drop in the bucket). Even if I didn't purchase custom (they work with Seven, Serrata and several others) I could use theinfo from the fitting to help me purchase a stock model elsewhere (they could make the minor adjustments in the bike as best they can within manufacturing limits.)Questions:-Is this fitting process worth it?-Is there that much difference between going custom and buying a decent stock model? ( yes cost)-They said the lowest end custom is 4.5k which made my jaw drop but said if steel was used it would save about 1k (a little heavier than titanium). Any opinions on steel?-Would doing the fitting, buying a less expensive stock model (using the fitting suggestions) and coming back for adjustments be the best and most cost effective option?- Given my goals would getting a better road bike (putting aero bars on) be the best option vs a tri bike (saw a tri bike for as little as 2k in a flyer from ?performance or was it nashbar)?I suspect anything I do will be an "improvement" over "old bessie" with her shifters on the downbar. Also I have clipless SPD pedals and shoes that I've used for spinning at the gym. I can walk in the shoes (probobly more like mtn bike shoes). Is it worth changing these (pedals and shoes) to more conventional road shoes and pedals?Looking to have fun, get fit, but winning isn't the main goal.

1.  Is getting a fit worth it?  Yes

2.  Should I get a custom bike?  Probably not.  Getting a custom titanium framed bike would be cool, and win you points with the bike geeks, but Gettin an off the rack road bike or triathlon bike will get you better performace and save you money. 

3. Road bike or tri bike? Ultimately its a matter of preference.  A tri bike with a proper fit will make you faster, but a road bike is more versatile and requires a lot less homework when it comes to maximizing your performance

4. Are SPD pedals OK?  Yes.  performance wise I don't know of any real difference between brands of clipless pedals themselves in terms of performance.  If you like being able to walk around in your shoes SPD is a good option, although most of the shoes made for SPD have mountain biking in mind and are probably a bit more stout than a high end road shoe but in real world terms it doesn't make much difference.



Edited by JZig 2011-10-26 11:11 AM
2011-10-26 12:14 PM
in reply to: #3738408

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Subject: RE: New Bike, Bike fit Questions

I'll take a crack at this:

"Is this fitting process worth it?-"

The fit process you described from the Serotta dealer is a solid fit process, but may exceed your needs.

The things you require are accurate body measurements, a consultation about what your goals are and how you'd use your bike and then a recommendation of a specific bike congruent with the fit data and your conversation with the bike fitter.

"Is there that much difference between going custom and buying a decent stock model?"

Let's define some terms: A "custom" bike is a bike with a unique frame geometry designed for an individual person's measurements- like a custom made suit or dress. The bike frame is made to your measurements from scratch.

A "stock" bike is a bike selected from an existing brand's line-up in a specific size. Once that bike is selected then there are at least 13 variables that can be altered to change the bike fit: handlebar length, width, style, stem angle and length, saddle choice, crank length, pedal choice- those are all variables that affect fit and position on a stock bike.

Which is better, custom or stock? I'll always argue stock.

Firstly, almost no one "needs" custom frame geometry unless they have unusual body dimensions, usually extremely tall- 6'5" and taller. Almost every top pro cyclist and pro triathlete rides a stock frame size, not custom. It simply isn't necessary in a well designed stock bike.

Secondly, with custom, you are an "experiment of one". Good custom bike builders like Serotta, Seven, Calfee and Guru know what custom frame geometries will handle well and which won't, but you are still an experiment of one when you get on the bike for the first time. Again, not even the top pros use custom geometry frames.

"Any opinions on steel?"

So-called "steel" bikes are made of a ferrous (iron) based alloy composed of iron and other materials in an alloy. The combination of metals, or alloy, is then physically "worked", either cold or hot, into shapes intended to improve its specific properties- be they shock absorption, stiffness or light weight.

Cro-Moly or "steel" has many variants but is essentially an "isotropic" material, meaning it transmits energy equally in all directions. It is also necessary to build a cro-moly bike from a series of "tubes" joined by brazing, a sort of delicate welding process. These joints are overall less desireable than some construction process that eliminates joints or reduces them. Joints are what engineers refer to as "stress raisers" or areas where cracks can begin to propagate (spread) from.

And, as you have mentioned, a hand built cro-moly frame such as a Serotta is expensive.

Why would anyone buy one? Mostly for the same reason people still buy a $5500 Rolex automatic watch when a $199 electric Casio G-Shock is more accurate and durable. There is some visceral, classic quality to a beautifully made steel bike. They also are a part of cycling history like a vintage Corvette car. At the elite levels though, and even the top amateur levels, steel (cro-moly) is no longer used. Every top rider in the Tour de France, every rider in fact, uses carbon fiber. Every top rider at Ironman also uses carbon fiber.

"Would doing the fitting, buying a less expensive stock model (using the fitting suggestions) and coming back for adjustments be the best and most cost effective option?"

One word: Yes.

"Given my goals would getting a better road bike (putting aero bars on) be the best option vs a tri bike?"

In the bike industry we like it when you buy a road bike first because sales statistics indicate you will also buy a triathlon bike within two years. People who buy triathlon bikes first seldom purchase an additional road bike. We get to sell you two bikes. We like that. Money mouth

A road bike teaches you the rudiments and advanced cycling skills: Pedalling, cornering, bike handling, use of clipless pedals, crash avoidance and crashing itself (you will crash sooner or later). A road bike is optimized for group riding: Riding in close proximity to other riders benefitting from their draft. It is also optimized for high speed cornering.

A triathlon bike is made for riding in the aero posture using aerobars where you steer from the elbows and optimized for comfort and stability in the aerobar position. The bike doesn't turn as easily as a road bike but is more comfortable since the weight of your torso is supported by your skeleton, not your musculature.

A road bike is a sports car, nimble and quick. A triathlon bike is a performance luxury car, stable, aerodynamic and comfortable.

Triathlon bikes are also optimized so that you can run faster after riding hard according the a university study done in 2000 by Ian Garside called the "Garside Study" and written about extensively by Dan Empfield, inventor of the triathlon bike.

"Is it worth changing these [walkable/SPD MTB style] (pedals and shoes) to more conventional road shoes and pedals?"

Yes, but perhaps not right away.

Many first time clipless pedal users mistakenly buy SPD style "walkable" systems first. The SPD pedal/shoe interface is smaller and more difficult to find under foot, even though it is two-sided (you clip in from both sides).

Road systems are optimized for road use. They are easier to clip into and clip out of but are more difficult to walk in. But remember- you didn't buy these shoes to walk, you are buying them to pedal.

There are also specific triathlon cycling shoes with fewer closures for faster donning.

I hope that answers some of your questions. Keep it up!Smile



Edited by Tom Demerly. 2011-10-26 12:20 PM
2011-10-26 12:26 PM
in reply to: #3738408

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Subject: RE: New Bike, Bike fit Questions
gzh6464 - 2011-10-26 8:13 AM

Questions:-Is this fitting process worth it?-

Is there that much difference between going custom and buying a decent stock model?

Given my goals would getting a better road bike (putting aero bars on) be the best option vs a tri bike (saw a tri bike for as little as 2k in a flyer from

Is it worth changing these (pedals and shoes) to more conventional road shoes and pedals?Looking to have fun, get fit, but winning isn't the main goal.


Wow, that was difficult to read.

Yes, fitting is very much worth it, for a tri bike

Don't go custom until such a time as you know you NEED one. Not want one, not suggested by a bike store, NEED one.

Road bike is more versatile than a tri bike and may be all you need. Plus you can save the fitting's money by doing a basic road bike setup.

When I get somewhere near 50 miles or more per ride is when I started getting hot spots from SPD pedals and I switched to SPD-SL (road bike) pedals. It was well worth it.



2011-10-26 1:20 PM
in reply to: #3738408

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Subject: RE: New Bike, Bike fit Questions
All that stuff ^they^ said, plus I'll add this: you already have a road bike.  I'm sure the store would be more than happy to sell you another one and then a tri bike as Tom said, but at this point I'd just buy the tri bike and ride old faithful when a roadie is in order.
2011-10-26 11:14 PM
in reply to: #3738408


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Subject: RE: New Bike, Bike fit Questions

Thanks all...especially Tom.

I appologize to your eyes...I had written the paragraph in an easier read format but somehow everything got mashed up together.

I guess anything I get will be better than old bessie and doing a fit may help me decide what to get.

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