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Buying new frameset
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 2016-09-01 5:30 PM |
 74 |  Subject: Buying new framesetI'm toying with an idea to execute over the winter...I currently have a road bike, and I race with clip ons and fast forward seatpost to mimic TT bike position. All my training riding is alone no group rides for me, I can only own 1 bike right now, and budget is factor. I was thinking of finding an affordable (sub 1k, maybe even around 500) frame to buy, switching my 105 5800 group over, then finding other needed parts (base bar, brake levers, shifters) on ebay or nashbar.com or something. I've seen listing where I could get all 3 of those items for 20 bucks each. My main question right now is fit. I'd want a tri bike fit to make sure I'm comfy and optimize my position since I've never had a fit. Should I do this before buying a frame? If before for sure, what fit method (guru, retul, etc) will give me metrics that I can easily use to buy and build a frame? Or, am I 95% safe that I can buy a frame in my current size (54cm, or M in brands that go SML), and get it fit afterwards with same results? |
| 2016-09-01 5:32 PM in reply to: #5197493 |
| 74 | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset Meant to be clearer- I'm thinking of getting a tri/TT frameset. So a switch from road frame to tri frame. |
| 2016-09-01 6:21 PM in reply to: PBT_2009 |
Member 622   Franklin, TN | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset The road frame size doesn't necessarily equate to a tri bike size. I would get the fit first, if possible. The fit will give you the stack/reach numbers that will allow you to narrow down your search. I have relatively short legs for my height and there are only a few manufacturers that make frames that will work for me. ie. I can't ride a Cervelo or Speed Concept but the Felt DA series works. If you are more standard in your morphology then the list of suitable manufacturers and frames opens up but you'll still need stack/reach numbers to find the right frame. You might be a 54 with one manufacturer or a 56 with another. |
| 2016-09-01 6:34 PM in reply to: #5197495 |
| 370 , North Carolina | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset I ride a 54 specialized Allez. Bought a Fuji aloha 1.0 in 54 and it was slightly too big. Should have went 52 in that bike. Couple good online calculators if you take good measurements |
| 2016-09-01 6:47 PM in reply to: Nick B |
| 74 | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset will any fit system give me stack/reach measurements for FRAMES? i know sometimes things are measured in arm pad stack/reach, how does that factor in? if a fit tells me what my stack/reach for a frame should be, how do i know where the saddle and arm pads should be positioned to maximize the effectiveness of the fit? perhaps an example - if i get a fit and know my stack/reach, and a frame in my price range has the reach but is short 10mm on stack, can't i just buy a riser kit for the pads instead of getting another frame that has my exact stack/reach? the amount of info on different fit systems and different geometry measurements has officially overwhelmed me... |
| 2016-09-01 7:43 PM in reply to: 0 |
| 216 | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset It seems to me the easier route would be to sell your current bike complete and buy a used, but complete, TT bike. Or at least sell the road bike complete and buy new components to put on whatever frameset you find. A new 105 drivetrain is what, $200? And 105 brake calipers are ~$60 assuming convenitional calipers even fit your new frame? What else are you thinking of moving over? I would assume the old bike is worth quite a bit more as a complete unit. I can't imagine it wouldn't be a lot easier to re-sell as a complete unit. Unless you were just planning to bin what was left of the old bike, moving stuff over seems like it wouldn't save you a whole lot of money, and would probably be more than a little bit of a pain in the rear. Edited by gary p 2016-09-01 7:44 PM |
| 2016-09-01 8:15 PM in reply to: gary p |
| 74 | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset I tried selling the whole bike on CL maybe 2 years ago, for 550 and no one was biting...its a 2011 trek 1.2, but i've upgraded every single part on the thing, the frame is the only thing left stock. i could transfer crankset, BB, both derailleurs, cassette, wheels/tubes/tires, clip-on aerobars, TT saddle, brakes, maybe stem... plus i like the idea of keeping my road frame (its my first bike, im emotionally attached)...so some day when i can have a stable of bikes i can re-build it up and enjoy it once again...stupid idea kinda but thats my ideal situation. |
| 2016-09-02 6:10 AM in reply to: PBT_2009 |
Champion 7136  Knoxville area | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset Originally posted by PBT_2009 will any fit system give me stack/reach measurements for FRAMES? i know sometimes things are measured in arm pad stack/reach, how does that factor in? if a fit tells me what my stack/reach for a frame should be, how do i know where the saddle and arm pads should be positioned to maximize the effectiveness of the fit? perhaps an example - if i get a fit and know my stack/reach, and a frame in my price range has the reach but is short 10mm on stack, can't i just buy a riser kit for the pads instead of getting another frame that has my exact stack/reach? the amount of info on different fit systems and different geometry measurements has officially overwhelmed me... to really make use of YOUR stack and reach numbers for an upcoming tri bike purchase, you would ideally know what you'll be adding to the bike's front end. The difference between you riding a 54 with a -18° 80mm stem and a slammed bar or a 52 with a -6° 100mm stem and 30mm of pad risers may seem small, but can be a big deal. Both can be made to work very often, but one is usually going to end up being better. Knowing what cockpit you plan to put on the bike (or if the bike you are buying is integrated, what options of stem/pad adjustment are available) and then working your way backwards is the commonly accepted "correct" way to find your bike. Slowman has written a lot of articles on this concept. Do some extended reading and talk with your bike fitter. |
| 2016-09-02 7:10 AM in reply to: PBT_2009 |
| 216 | Subject: RE: Buying new frameset Originally posted by PBT_2009 I tried selling the whole bike on CL maybe 2 years ago, for 550 and no one was biting...its a 2011 trek 1.2, but i've upgraded every single part on the thing, the frame is the only thing left stock. i could transfer crankset, BB, both derailleurs, cassette, wheels/tubes/tires, clip-on aerobars, TT saddle, brakes, maybe stem... plus i like the idea of keeping my road frame (its my first bike, im emotionally attached)...so some day when i can have a stable of bikes i can re-build it up and enjoy it once again...stupid idea kinda but thats my ideal situation. If you've got space to keep the frame in storage and are inclined to do so, then by all means move the stuff over. Of course you have to be careful in selecting your transfer candidate frame to be sure the BB, crankset, and brakes are compatible. |
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