Slornow's and Wannabefaster's Summer Mentor Group - CLOSED (Page 23)

Race report is up for my half marathon....

Scott. 

Mary-no problem looking at the bikes. I would be looking for alot more that 10% off for a used bike.. Whatever you do make sure you get the right size. If it doesn't fit an expensive bike will be just as uncomfortable as a cheap bike. Check at your local bike shops (LBS) and see what they have witihin your budget. Most LBS will include a fit, some more thorough than others, with the purchase of a new bike. They can also help you find the right geometry. Some bikes are built for racing while other very sporty looking road bikes have a more comfortable geometry. Another thing that is important is the size of the crank set. Compact cranks have become very popular and I had no idea what they were when I bought my first bike. I would avoid a "triple", 3 rings,  on the front as my personal opinion is that they are hard to tune well. Of course, you are likely to pay more for a new bike at a LBS but you have a much better chance of getting the right bike for you.

There are several key items that will typically drive the price of a bike:

1) Frame material-a full carbon frame/fork will cost more than an aluminum frame which will typically be more expensive than steel frame. Carbon is suppose to be lighter and absorb more of the road than aluminum making for a more comfortable ride. It will be difficult to find a full carbon frame bike at a LBS for less than $2000. I think the best bang for the buck out there is a good aluminum frame with a carbon fork and possibly a carbon seat post.  Thats what I had with my first road bike. A Specialized Allez. I still wish I had that bike...I realize what a great bike it was and I think I paid $1100 for it at my LBS with Shimano 105 components.

2) Components-you will probably be looking at SRAM or Shimano. They are both good but the SRAM shifts just a bit differently than the Shimano. I have always used Shimano but there are people that swear by SRAM. There are many different component levels within each manufacturer.

SRAM-for less to most expensive is Apex, Rival, Force and Red

Shimano-less to most expensive is 2300, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra and DuraAce

All of the components groups these days can provide a smooth effortless shift. I have never used SRAM but if I were buying a new bike with Shimano components I would try to get 105 or better components. I have had many mechanics tell me this and frankly the only difference between some of the upper level groups is the weight. Here again a well tuned 2300 set will shift better than a poorly tuned DuraAce group. This is another spot where the LBS can help get the bike set up and tuned correctly. Many of the LBS here wiill offer free tuning for X amount of time after you buy the bike.

3) Wheels/tires-don't worry about this. If you buy an entry level or enthusiast level road bike they will all have similar wheels and tires. These are easy to swap out later if you want a lighter/better set.

Conclusion-I'm all for saving money but keep in mind that the bike you buy from an individual will likely need a tune up. Unless you are a good bike mechanic the tune up will need to be done at the LBS and will cost you more money. If you do buy from an individual or online the LBS will usually be happy to work on your bike as they make $ from service work. However, many LBS will give priority to those that purchased bikes at their shop. If you are going to be a regular cyclist, in my opinion, one of the most important things to do is establish a relationship with a LBS that you like. Also, little things like a couple of bottles of wine at the holidays or a nice six pack of beer for the mechanic or some homemade cookies/cake will endear you to the folks there. You don't have to do it everytime you take the bike in but a showing of appreciation is always welcome. Find a shop where you like the people, they a not snooty, and genuinely seem interested in helping you.

Don't you ride with a group from a LBS periodically? If so, that might be a good place to start. Sorry so long. I'll be online alot today as I'm still laid up so don't hesitate to post your questions....or you can send me a PM if you like. Always fun to look at bikes      

Mary-sorry, one other thing. If you do look to buy from an individual I would be "aggressive" in my negotitions. It is a buyers market. All they can say is no. Consider the asking price to be a very high starting point...be prepared to walk away. Try to be patient....not my best quality in these types of situations. When I decide I "need" something I get pretty obsessive. With that said, if its a good deal, the right fit, in good shape and you still have the $$ in your budget to get it tuned up then......

The bike you Stuart linked looks like a solid bike for the price. Aluminum frame, carbon fork and 105 components. If you do deal with a LBS you can try to negotiate a bit. But, for most new bikes the profit margin is fairly low. Many LBS will give you a discount on accessories.....pedals, shoes etc when you buy them with a new bike. So, if the LBS won't negotiate on price maybe you can get a deal on new pedals, helmet, gloves......  Don't be intimidated. They are in the business of selling bikes and making money. I was given a piece of negotiating advice many years ago that I never forgot. "You don't G-E-T unless you A-S-K."

Keep us updated.