Ernesto's group - CLOSED (Page 24)

Between 95degree heat, travelling and office, training suffered a good bit last 7days. Only got 2days of moderate exercise.

Good thing, it gave me some downtime to catch on Dr. Phil (Maffetone! not the other one). If using his 180-formula for aerobic base, I fall flat on my face!! My HR easily catches 150-160 during jog and peaks around 180-185 when I have to stop and lower it down. Using 180-age as MAHR would mean absolutely zero focus on pace. Thinking of turning the run-related workouts into Time/MAHR focused now. Would that be better goal?

Another issue with that is heart rate rises on an incline whereas I can control it a bit more on a flat. However, it is next to impossible finding a good flat road/trail here. Most have some amount of elevation.

FWIW, I had to walk a lot at the beginning.  Now I can run some and still stay under MAHR.  It gets better, I promise.

OK, got a new job.  Moving to Austin.  Got a salary increase, so a new bike is a definite possibility.  Right now I'm on an entry level Specialized Dolce road bike, 48 cm. 

Anyone have any recommendations on what I should look for?  I'm ok with used after I figure out what I need/want.

Recently I've experienced a lot of chafing on my road bike more towards the front and at the leg to torso connections.  My saddle is relatively new and the same brand I've been riding on for the last 6 years.  I think the chafing may be because I have changed my riding position and cadence since the bike fit.  Also, I have lost some weight and a little body fat.  I feel like I have no padding at all anymore.

My choice is to get another bike fit and aerobars for the road bike, or just get a tri bike.  Suggestions, please.

Repeating what every Maffetone newbie says... but its soooo darn slow. Its just no fun!

Btw, would it be a bad idea to start the maffetone method now (with T-12weeks to the Oly)? Wondering since the book says it takes a few months to get used to this method.

For short intense, rides (like 1hr hill ride with a group) how do I keep under the MAHR? Those generally turn out to be quad-punishing, all out anaerobic workouts for me. I can't do sprint followed by a hill-climb without a spare set of lungs.

To back up a step...what type of riding will you be doing, what length races will you primarily target, will you be training solo or looking to do group rides?  What terrain will you be riding?  All valid questions in making a bike purchase decision.

Ok, acording to how the pain feels, and several MED-articles in the web, it maybe what they call "runners knee". It all started when I went to a specialized shoe store, they recomended one of the models that they had on special, but the cushioning was not as supportive as my ASICS nimbus 11, when I told them that the shoes didnt feel rigth, their answer was ," you need to break in to them" and I did, and nothing got better, so I whent back to my old ASICS but the pain didnt go away.

A couple a weeks I started to put ice on my knee due to previous experience from Mountain bike (other Knee) with good outcome; since then I had noticed a small improvement on my knee, but I started to get cramps on the inside of my knee when I swim. 

For example my las run was with less pain than the one before, so, For how long do I stop running? what do I do to heel the knee or would time take care of it?

thank you   

I will agree with Ernesto that ideally we should never run with pain.  That being said, I have had issues with the ball of my foot where the doc said that running may hurt but won't cause any long term damage - gave me a stretching regime and told to ice it.  Did both, foot 98% healed, no pain but slight discomfort.  I keep stretching and it continues to get closer to 100%.

Second example, I tweaked my ankle playing walleyball earlier this spring.  Took a few days rest and started running again.  Iced after running to deal with residual pain.  It slowly got better (I am a serial researcher and read alot of med websites to come to my own decision if it would contribute to long term damage or not.) and is now healed.

Third example - self diagnosed - runner knee or patella tendinitis.  Lot of conflicting advice on the web.  You can look in my logs to see that I took it pretty easy for about 2 weeks and started run cautiously after that.  I iced after some runs and ran with a flexible knee brace.  I ended up buying a "patella band" and I "think" it has helped.  Theory is that it distributes the stress on the tendon around the knee.  Many good reviews online and on Amazon.  I said I think it helps because I no longer feel much or any discomfort on runs...however - it could just be healing?

I think if you are really worried or want to be very thorough you should find a doctor who specializes in sports injuries and get evaluated.  My wife is right when she says that I am crazy for running with discomfort or pain.  I guess I try to find the balance discomfort and pain and watch the trend - if it stabilizes and get's better in a short period of time I proceed with caution - if it gets worse I seek professional assistance.  If I can train through it with no long term damage I do. 

I will say the cramps on the inside and outside of knee are puzzling.  It never hurts to have a pro look at you.

Who cares if you miss races or training, if you keep running you'll loose even worse. Swimming shouldn't create an impact that's why I don't know what to make of it. Get a proffessional opinion.

Here's a nice little one for an MSRP of $12,499.  http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2011/TT-TRI/TT-TRI-Series/DA.aspx

I bet you can talk them down to an even $12,000.

I've been exhausted recently, including now.  I don't know whether it is due to overtraining, a virus, or a combination of both.   The reason I think it might be a virus is that my youngest daughter (7) has had a fever, at time high, for a full week now.  Just getting over it.  Doctor is a bit puzzled, but all signs just point to a persistent virus.  

But I took Sunday off.  On Monday, I swam 2500 yards in the pool and biked, not hard, 29.5 miles.  Took Tuesday and Wednesday off.   Today I ran 3 miles slow (average heart rate 134 bpm).  

I'm in my taper for my Olympic Tri a week from Saturday, so it probably isn't a bad thing to take it easy, but I feel incredibly unmotivated.   I will do an open water swim tomorrow and a bunch of yard work (taking the day off of work-work).  Not sure how much I can do Saturday and Sunday since I am in charge of an overnight camping outing for my son's cub scout pack on Saturday night.  

Any ideas on what to do between now and the tri on June 11th?

OK, new road bikes start at $800 and up.  What do new tri bikes start at?  I wouldn't have a new driver go out and buy a Maserati, so being new, I guess I don't need Chris' 12k model yet.

How do you pick a tri bike?  I figure once I figure out what would be good for me, I'll look at the used market.  I'm sure there are people who upgrade their bikes, or just plain drop out of the sport.

How much can I spend, maybe up to 4k.  How much am I willing to spend, much less, unless convinced that I need to spend more.  I'm an analyst, so I'm all about bang for the buck.  Work with me here, please  . . . lol

At the end of 2010, I spent $1200 on a closeout 2008 Trek Equinox 7.  It is an aluminum frame, carbon fork tri bike.  It's good enough for me.   The best tri bike shop around me is selling selected closeout Felt tri bikes from between $1000 and $1200.   They have a package deal for a Quintano Roo Tequila (separately it is $1350) where they throw in pedals, an upgraded saddle, a bike computer, tri shoes, a water bottle, cage and repair kit for $1525.  http://gearwestbike.com/about/ready-to-tri-bike-package-pg436.htm

Not that you would buy from them given the distance, but that seems to be the ballpark for the lower end new, non-closeout, aluminum frame, carbon fork tri bike.  You, of course, might want to go higher. 

Jackie, congratulations on a new job! Hopefully it won't mean longer hours or more stress...

 Best deals come around end/very beginning of season when stores are trying to rid older models for making rack space. If waiting till end of season is too long, then you can try looking at smaller shops and see if their mid-end tri-bikes from previous year are still eating dust. It would be easy 30% off. Although it limits the choices drastically due to limited availability.  

Good luck with the search.

First of all Congratulations Jackie, and thanks for the inspire.  I haven't been on here the last few days.  Scott just received his housing assignment and we started making our relocation plans...Including spending time online picking out furniture to fill the new place...  

On a training note... I have been running and pain has subsided.  I have had the same problems with my heart rate rising quickly because of elevation gains.  I will focus on staying within aerobic zones after the race on the 12th.  Tomorrow I will try to do a very slow easy 10 mile run.  If I can do that I know I will be able to finish the 1/2.  Like I stated before I am not focusing on time just completion. 

Speaking of bikes now....Like Jackie,  when we move I am going to replace my bike..  My current one is all aluminum and 51cm.  I was measured in the past and was told I needed a 49 to 50cm womens specific.  My bike is a jamis and I use cage pedals as well.  The seat post was replaced with a ti post to push me forward more.  (and I finished my tri and all my training on that boat).  

So I was looking at another road bike.  Not a tri bike as I will be doing century rides as well.  I was told if my speed and racing ability grows, when I can start looking at placing in my age group..then maybe a tri bike... Anyway.  I was looking at getting some thing out of last season for all the reasons mentioned prior.....  I will be putting on Speed Play pedals and getting shoes as well as buying clip on areo bars...Hopefully for around the price of $1200-$1400.  

Do you think that will work...  Looking at aluminum with carbon forks...

Jen:

I think you are being perfectly reasonable and the advice above was solid.  One, if you plan to do a lot of group rides a road bike would be much more accepted and practical.  Your point on century rides is also valid, especially if you will be in pace lines at some point.  Regarding aluminum to carbon.  Nothing wrong with aluminum.  For a bit more you may be able to find a closeout 2010 Cervelo S1 - they make a seat post that can be reversed to give a steeper angle to get closer to a tri-bike.

-Mitch

Road bike: good for extremely hilly courses and roadies. To some extent good for winter training and for intervals. Good for peloton training where aerodinamic efficiency is not important because of the slipstream.

Tri bike: distributes the load of the leg muscles MUCH better, aero position makes for minutes faster since the racing format in this country is non drafting. Body position resembles running and utilizes the hamstrings different than the road bike, setting you up for a fast(er) run.

About the tri bikes in particular:

DOs: Cervelo P2, P3C, Specialized Transition, Shiv, Kuota K-Factor, Kalibur, Fuji d7, Cannondale Six slice, Trek speed concept, Kestrel (this one is inexpensive), Pinarello (all models).

DONTs: Quintana Roo Kilo or Seduza.

When selecting a bike, it is best to get fitted before purchasing and not the other way around. In Austin, there's a ton of cycle shops where you can select bikes:

Jack and Adam's

Austin Tri Cyclist

Mellow Johny's (owned by Lance Armstrong)

and many more...

For Jen, Colorado has a ton of options too, however you may want to look at a road bike because of the terrain that you're going to be training on. Stay away from used rigs, roadies sell them when they're ready to go to the trash and they try to get fortunes for them. There's honorable exceptions but extremely hard to find.

And I appreciate everyones to sense as I'm sure Jackie does about her impending cycle purchase.  I don't know Jackie's plans but next year I hope to do a full IM.  If not than I plan to do 2 1/2IM races.  I have to get off the bike I'm using as it Is like trying to swim upstream with a weight belt (I used to dive and do that...not fun lol!).  I'm not fast YET on the bike and my job for the next year is training and increasing my performance and lowering my fat percentage. 

Would a tri bike make me that much faster??  Or would I be better off waiting  another year or so on that and getting the road bike with aeros added.