Why not "Tri"? - Closed (Page 4)

Originally posted by Xiomara

HI Every one

Is this still an active? I would love to join this group.

THanks,

Mara

Originally posted by mikerunkle

Hey gang,
Ok, I think we've got enough folks to effectively manage, so I'm going to change the group post to "CLOSED". This only has the purpose of stopping new members from joining. Doesn't mean the forum is dead or anything. Please continue to post and comment on this thread.
Cheers
Mike

Originally posted by mikerunkle



HK,
I'd need to track down the official rules to quote from, but I'm pretty sure that you cannot use the iPhone simply because it has the ability to do the things that are not allowed, whether you "plan" to use them or not.

As to importance of tracking cadence, this'll sound lame, but it depends on how important it is to you. Whether its Heart Rate, Cadence, Power or aura-color, if you use it as a metric to measure your performance and have a target you want to meet (that you've validated by training with it), then its important to keep using it in the race. However, race conditions can be very different than training conditions. I know some folks who swear by cadence in tracking/maintaining run performance. If you have been using it in training and you find it useful in order to help you maintain pace without starting too fast or too slow, then keep using it.
For me, in the past, I've used all kinds of metrics during training but have never bothered to track during a race. The addition of adrenaline, peer pressure and other intangibles on race day tend to throw off any plan I've ever tried to use. Of course, this causes me to tend to start too fast and blow up at the end of a race. Or operate at 120% for a race and need months to recover after.

Originally posted by adalt2

I felt the same way last year. I bought a Vilano online through Amazon for under $300 last year and started riding. I read lots of reviews and it was a recommended bike for under $500. For just starting in doing a tri, it was a great bike. After I did a race and started training more, I knew it was something I wanted to do. I upgraded to a Kestrel carbon bike for under $2000. There is a night and day difference between the two bikes when it comes to gearing and handling. I got the Kestrel from bikesdirect.com.

Originally posted by Xiomara

I have been trying to figure out what is the most affordable HRM with strap watch. Any suggestions? I don't want to spend too much money on one.

Thanks,

Mara

Originally posted by Xiomara

Thanks!

My name is Mara and I live in MA and just sign up for my first Sprint triathlon for July 11 @ Amesbury Dam Triathlon. I am doing this for a challenge and for my son who looks up to his mother . I am new to all this. I currently go to spinning classes and do well and planning on buying a cheap bike in Amazon. Any recommendations?? I am excited to read others messages as it will help with questions that may arise.

Mara

Originally posted by mikerunkle



Mara,
Bike recommendations is a hard thing to do, as they can be a very personal thing and the true differences between brands are so inconsequential yet passionately argued, that its tough to find "real" info.
First, you can buy a useable bike from Walmart or other big box store and be fine to race in triathlons. You will likely not win or take home any trophies but it will serve you just fine for introduction to the sport. However, these type bikes will be heavier than a competition bike and will not be easy to upgrade parts/components due to the nature of how these mass produced bikes are assembled. But is a perfectly acceptable (and recommended) way to start. Now, if you are ready to move on from the walmart bike, the most important thing about a bike is that is its the right size for your body and you get a good fit from a reputable bike shop. What the heck does that mean?

1. Bikes are generally sized according to the downtube (tube from seat to crank), measured in centimeters. (Except at Walmart where bikes are sized by tire size..???). What size you need is very specific to your body measurements. I strongly recommend you find a local bike shop and have them do a "fit" on you, so you know what sizes you'd need to look for. They will undoubtedly try to sell you one of their bikes (they do need to pay bills), but you DO NOT need to buy a $1200 bike from them. I would try to avoid spending more than $200 on a first bike. The only way to do that is via Ebay or Craigslist or other classified ads, but you do need to know your size.

2. Once you know the frame size you are looking for, go search via that size. Try to avoid getting too caught up in the carbon fiber craze. There is nothing wrong with aluminum or steel bikes. And don't get too concerned on the difference between a road bike and a triathlon bike right now. (I can talk about that more later for those who are interested). Do pay attention to what components (gears, levers, cranks) are on the bike you find. There are two "styles" SRAM and Campagnioli (campy). They are not mix and match. SRAM is more universal but there are those who swear by Campy.

3. Once you have your bike in hand, its time to go back to the local bike shop and get a "bike fit". They will put you on your new bike and make adjustments to handlebars, seat posts and whatever else in order to truly make the bike fit to your body measurements. This will avoid pain in the future if you are trying to make your body fit an unnatural position. Any bike shop worth visiting will do a fit on any bike, even if you didn't buy it from them. You will likely have to pay for the service, but they will do it.

4. Go ride. You may find that you need another fit in a few months because your body has gotten used to the bike position and muscles/joints have relaxed or strengthened more than they were during the first fit.

Any questions so far?

r/
Mike