Fred D Mentor Group - Part II (Page 84)

So let me rephrase:

SRM's prices don't reflect the value of the technology

Let's face it, this is strain gauges to get a torque average, and a computer doing a little math.  The crank manufacture might require a little creativity to make a unit that's both waterproof and user serviceable.  But otherwise, not rocket science.

I don't know what patents are out there on this stuff but that's the only thing that would sustain high prices.  Maybe this new product figured out a way to avoid treading on those.

I could be wrong on this, but I think the patent on some of SRM's design has recently expired.  Not sure when, but I think we could be scratching the surface on the expansion of power meter options and price reductions. 

In the past 5-10 years, there was a huge amount of R&D, and market penetration costs that had to be passed down to customers.  So the cost that was justifiable 10 years ago...I agree is no longer applicable today given what we know about strain gauges, and how many people are currently ready to buy a power meter.

The same goes for race wheels.  Most of the tough R&D work has been done, and the list of buyers has grown so big that we really shouldn't be seeing $2-3k wheelsets for much longer.  It's just a matter of time before other options arise, and consumers start speaking with their wallets.

Part of the price is licensing with crank manufacturers.  SRM uses Shimano, Quarq SRAM, for example.  Another chunk is for ANT+ and/or Bluetooth, each of which have their own license fees for any device that uses them.

But in general what you said still applies.  These companies are no doubt already brainstorming on cool new things they can build to stay ahead.  There'll be a "next big thing" we just don't know what it is yet.

I think the cool thing about this new product is that it should work with any crank since it's the left hand arm.  SRM and Quarq are measuring from the spider, so they can choose to be Shimano or SRAM specific if they want to be (Quarq used to be compatible with many more cranks such as FSA before being bought out by SRAM).

Your legs aren't hairy enough and the sticker is too straight!

Those are some nice body marking numbers on your arms.  Stickers or stamps?

Nice looking ride!

Your situation is a bit different from Neil's.  You've actually already accomplished what for many is the hard part -- getting your head in line with your back.  (This comes easier to some than others.)  Like him, though, you could stand to rotate counter-clockwise, and your seat is too high.  Crank is past its lowest point and you look like you're still reaching.  Your hip angle actually doesn't look horrible, and knee angle is OK, but it still does look like you are reaching, and I wonder whether your hip is dropped a bit (which would distort the angle in a still shot and is hard to detect there, but would be clear in person or in a video).

It is more clear for you than it was for Neil how to do the rotation.  You need to lower the front end a good bit (as he does), lower the seat a tad, and move the seat forward.  (Without some experiment, I think it's unclear about Neil's fore/aft seat movement.  I'd bet dollars to donuts that yours needs to come forward.)

None of this should change your overall body angles that much -- apart from the reaching with the left leg, they look OK (for an 'internet fitting').  I.e., you shouldn't lose any 'comfort' (same provisos apply here as those that I posted in response to Neil's pics).  For an IM position, I'd suggest focussing only on that rotation.  You don't want to get crazy for 112 miles unless you've got way too much time to devote to it.  For shorter distances you could consider turtling, shrugging the shoulders, and getting a little more extreme in front, but for IM I wouldn't recommend changing much about your overall position apart from rotation.

Well, there is one other thing, but it is very individual.  For many people (not all), the downward sloping forearms is worse (aerodynamically) than flat or even angled up slightly.  You cannot know for sure without careful (and as I said to Neil, race-relevant) testing, but if I had to bet (and I am a betting man...) I'd say you have some free speed to gain by getting them at least flat if not slightly angled up.

Oh, and shorten the straw and get that tube off the back and under your seat.  

I should clarify at this point, lest anybody get the wrong impression (since I've commented on a few of these posts), that I am not a professional fitter.  (I'd take a huge pay cut, for one thing!)  My credentials are only those of someone who has done a lot of studying, asked too many questions of a few pretty good fitters, and done a good deal of fitting (for free or beer) of local triathletes.  So take this advice with a healthy dose of skepticism.  Hey, you get what you pay for...

I'm far from a fitter.....  

I think flipping the stem will go a long way.  I will also hazard a guess that your seat is a tad to high but not extreme.  What is in the pocket if your tri shorts?  That looks like a potential aero no-no!

I had the arm pads way narrower when I first got the bike.  I was following the ST aero or die mantra.  I would get a lot of tightness across my upper back and neck.  When I got a semi fit by a fitter (it was free because my wife bought a bike....), he opened me up some and it made a huge difference in comfort.

I need my fingertips around the shifters.  In fact, when I got my new front end last year, we had to cut my extensions about 4 times before we got it right.  I originally told my mechanic where I wanted it, and he didn't believe me as it was basically cutting the extension in half (I have short arms/forearms).  So he said he would cut it, put the shifters on, then make sure I wanted to go shorter before he cut it again.  Rinse, repeat.  He said I probably shaved a lot of weight...LOL.

FWIW I recently got some return-to-center shifters, and I was immediately in love with them.  I was able to pull the bars back so that the shifters are entirely in my hands, and because they never change position (except momentarily during the actual act of shifting) you can position them so that they fit comfortably in your hands for the long haul.  They have to be carefully calibrated, but I've (finally) found a local mechanic that can do that sort of thing reliably.  I feel like I got at least 95% of the benefit of Di2 (with no worries about battery failure!) at 10% of the cost.