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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() dalessit - 2012-07-16 10:29 AM Ok, that makes sense. I'd go with a true compact crank 50/34 vs. the new mid-compact which you can get in different configurations. Then I'd get either a 11-27 or 12-27 for the rear cassette. There are aero chainrings which basically have the holes filled in vs a normal chainring that has the open spaces (weighs less) but no such thing as a tri-bike crankset. Thanks. I've learned the hard way, better to ask the stupid questions ahead of time. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() mighty mom - 2012-07-16 10:41 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 10:29 AM Ok, that makes sense. I'd go with a true compact crank 50/34 vs. the new mid-compact which you can get in different configurations. Then I'd get either a 11-27 or 12-27 for the rear cassette. There are aero chainrings which basically have the holes filled in vs a normal chainring that has the open spaces (weighs less) but no such thing as a tri-bike crankset. Thanks. I've learned the hard way, better to ask the stupid questions ahead of time. Not a stupid question at all. LOL, the way things tend to be marketed to triathletes I'm surprised they don't make tri-specific cranks. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() dalessit - 2012-07-16 7:29 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 9:31 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 9:26 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 7:45 AM Need some input from the MG. I realized on Saturday that I've been obliviously riding on the wrong size crankset on my bike. So I need to purchase a new one. Anyone have a recommendation for what I should get? compact 50/34. Basically I am clueless when it come to bike parts other than how to use them so any help would be much appreciated. By wrong size I'm guessing you mean you were riding a double before and now want to move to a compact? What size rear cassette are you using now? Replacing that will cost you $75 - $100. Replacing the crank will cost $250 - $500. Not saying that switching to a compact is a bad thing but it's a more expensive thing. It's the length of the crank arm. Currently 172.5, fit to a 170. Since the arm length is too big might as well go for the compact. Rear cassette is 12/25. Stupid question alert... there is no such thing as a tri-bike specific crankset, correct? Ok, that makes sense. I'd go with a true compact crank 50/34 vs. the new mid-compact which you can get in different configurations. Then I'd get either a 11-27 or 12-27 for the rear cassette. There are aero chainrings which basically have the holes filled in vs a normal chainring that has the open spaces (weighs less) but no such thing as a tri-bike crankset. Can't she get 170 crank arms w/o changing any of the cassettes if need be? My tri bike came with 172.5 crank arms, which my fitter eventually pinpointed to some knee pain I was having. I was able to move to 170cm w/o any other changes. I have since put a compact 50/34 on the same bike (also 170cm), but that was a different move. Now maybe you want to do some cassette tweaking as well -- are you comfortable on the terrain you ride? Do you wish you had more "granny" gears or are you good? |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Congratulations, Dan, Melissa, Kim, and George!!! Looking forward to reading the RRs! |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Popping in on this bike question. My advice is talk to your fitter. I do not have a compact and when I talked to my coach about it he told me I didn't need it. I have a 53/39 and an 11/28 and think it works well for MOO. I rode for a long time with an 12/27, but switched to get the 11 more than the 28. Makes doing low RPM high HR work more worthwhile. Off I go! |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() kkcbelle - 2012-07-16 11:44 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 7:29 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 9:31 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 9:26 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 7:45 AM Need some input from the MG. I realized on Saturday that I've been obliviously riding on the wrong size crankset on my bike. So I need to purchase a new one. Anyone have a recommendation for what I should get? compact 50/34. Basically I am clueless when it come to bike parts other than how to use them so any help would be much appreciated. By wrong size I'm guessing you mean you were riding a double before and now want to move to a compact? What size rear cassette are you using now? Replacing that will cost you $75 - $100. Replacing the crank will cost $250 - $500. Not saying that switching to a compact is a bad thing but it's a more expensive thing. It's the length of the crank arm. Currently 172.5, fit to a 170. Since the arm length is too big might as well go for the compact. Rear cassette is 12/25. Stupid question alert... there is no such thing as a tri-bike specific crankset, correct? Ok, that makes sense. I'd go with a true compact crank 50/34 vs. the new mid-compact which you can get in different configurations. Then I'd get either a 11-27 or 12-27 for the rear cassette. There are aero chainrings which basically have the holes filled in vs a normal chainring that has the open spaces (weighs less) but no such thing as a tri-bike crankset. Can't she get 170 crank arms w/o changing any of the cassettes if need be? My tri bike came with 172.5 crank arms, which my fitter eventually pinpointed to some knee pain I was having. I was able to move to 170cm w/o any other changes. I have since put a compact 50/34 on the same bike (also 170cm), but that was a different move. Now maybe you want to do some cassette tweaking as well -- are you comfortable on the terrain you ride? Do you wish you had more "granny" gears or are you good? I'll have to look again to be sure but from my first look it appeared the arm could not be disassembled separately. I do think I would benefit from a couple additional "granny" gears to keep a more steady effort. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() kkcbelle - 2012-07-16 11:44 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 7:29 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 9:31 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 9:26 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 7:45 AM Need some input from the MG. I realized on Saturday that I've been obliviously riding on the wrong size crankset on my bike. So I need to purchase a new one. Anyone have a recommendation for what I should get? compact 50/34. Basically I am clueless when it come to bike parts other than how to use them so any help would be much appreciated. By wrong size I'm guessing you mean you were riding a double before and now want to move to a compact? What size rear cassette are you using now? Replacing that will cost you $75 - $100. Replacing the crank will cost $250 - $500. Not saying that switching to a compact is a bad thing but it's a more expensive thing. It's the length of the crank arm. Currently 172.5, fit to a 170. Since the arm length is too big might as well go for the compact. Rear cassette is 12/25. Stupid question alert... there is no such thing as a tri-bike specific crankset, correct? Ok, that makes sense. I'd go with a true compact crank 50/34 vs. the new mid-compact which you can get in different configurations. Then I'd get either a 11-27 or 12-27 for the rear cassette. There are aero chainrings which basically have the holes filled in vs a normal chainring that has the open spaces (weighs less) but no such thing as a tri-bike crankset. Can't she get 170 crank arms w/o changing any of the cassettes if need be? My tri bike came with 172.5 crank arms, which my fitter eventually pinpointed to some knee pain I was having. I was able to move to 170cm w/o any other changes. I have since put a compact 50/34 on the same bike (also 170cm), but that was a different move. Now maybe you want to do some cassette tweaking as well -- are you comfortable on the terrain you ride? Do you wish you had more "granny" gears or are you good? I'm not sure if you can with shimano, but I could be wrong. Though if you're buying new crank arms, the whole crank itself shouldn't be much more expensive, and if you're going to buy the whole crank, I would suggest moving to a compact. In my opinion they're the best thing for the majority of us on bikes. You'll be wishing for more gears going up hills than you do going down them, so why not have more designed for going up? This is especially true in tri's where you're trying to keep it even as possible going up hill vs trying to explode up every hill.
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() SSMinnow - 2012-07-16 12:36 PM Popping in on this bike question. My advice is talk to your fitter. I do not have a compact and when I talked to my coach about it he told me I didn't need it. I have a 53/39 and an 11/28 and think it works well for MOO. I rode for a long time with an 12/27, but switched to get the 11 more than the 28. Makes doing low RPM high HR work more worthwhile. Off I go! My fitter already recommended a compact for me but I need to see/talk to him regardless so I'll confirm. Re the cassette, I think I need the 28 more than the 11. Maybe in 5-10 years when I eventually reach your fitness level that will change. ;P |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() SSMinnow - 2012-07-16 12:36 PM Popping in on this bike question. My advice is talk to your fitter. I do not have a compact and when I talked to my coach about it he told me I didn't need it. I have a 53/39 and an 11/28 and think it works well for MOO. I rode for a long time with an 12/27, but switched to get the 11 more than the 28. Makes doing low RPM high HR work more worthwhile. Off I go! I'm curious why he said you didn't need a compact. When climbing in tri's you don't want to spike your hr or watts if you can help it so more climbing gears would seem to be able to help with that. Some people seem to think that a compact is a whimpy choice but to me it just makes more sense. On he cassette I agree, I prefer the 11 but for me it's for super fast pacelines and descents, it's amazing how much of a difference that makes.
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() dalessit - 2012-07-16 9:50 AM kkcbelle - 2012-07-16 11:44 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 7:29 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 9:31 AM dalessit - 2012-07-16 9:26 AM mighty mom - 2012-07-16 7:45 AM Need some input from the MG. I realized on Saturday that I've been obliviously riding on the wrong size crankset on my bike. So I need to purchase a new one. Anyone have a recommendation for what I should get? compact 50/34. Basically I am clueless when it come to bike parts other than how to use them so any help would be much appreciated. By wrong size I'm guessing you mean you were riding a double before and now want to move to a compact? What size rear cassette are you using now? Replacing that will cost you $75 - $100. Replacing the crank will cost $250 - $500. Not saying that switching to a compact is a bad thing but it's a more expensive thing. It's the length of the crank arm. Currently 172.5, fit to a 170. Since the arm length is too big might as well go for the compact. Rear cassette is 12/25. Stupid question alert... there is no such thing as a tri-bike specific crankset, correct? Ok, that makes sense. I'd go with a true compact crank 50/34 vs. the new mid-compact which you can get in different configurations. Then I'd get either a 11-27 or 12-27 for the rear cassette. There are aero chainrings which basically have the holes filled in vs a normal chainring that has the open spaces (weighs less) but no such thing as a tri-bike crankset. Can't she get 170 crank arms w/o changing any of the cassettes if need be? My tri bike came with 172.5 crank arms, which my fitter eventually pinpointed to some knee pain I was having. I was able to move to 170cm w/o any other changes. I have since put a compact 50/34 on the same bike (also 170cm), but that was a different move. Now maybe you want to do some cassette tweaking as well -- are you comfortable on the terrain you ride? Do you wish you had more "granny" gears or are you good? I'm not sure if you can with shimano, but I could be wrong. Though if you're buying new crank arms, the whole crank itself shouldn't be much more expensive, and if you're going to buy the whole crank, I would suggest moving to a compact. In my opinion they're the best thing for the majority of us on bikes. You'll be wishing for more gears going up hills than you do going down them, so why not have more designed for going up? This is especially true in tri's where you're trying to keep it even as possible going up hill vs trying to explode up every hill.
I've always had Shimano Ultregra on the tri bike, and my LBS was able to switch just the crank arms. And a big x2 on having more gears for going up. I am just tickled pink with my 50/34 -- although I do know when I threw Steve's race wheels on, I lost 1-2 grannies that I would have appreciated in Portland, but was then super-duper glad for the new front cassette. I always get to the smallest gear going up, but rarely get to the biggest gear going down. But then I'm a wussy descender... |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() dalessit - 2012-07-16 12:00 PM SSMinnow - 2012-07-16 12:36 PM Popping in on this bike question. My advice is talk to your fitter. I do not have a compact and when I talked to my coach about it he told me I didn't need it. I have a 53/39 and an 11/28 and think it works well for MOO. I rode for a long time with an 12/27, but switched to get the 11 more than the 28. Makes doing low RPM high HR work more worthwhile. Off I go! I'm curious why he said you didn't need a compact. When climbing in tri's you don't want to spike your hr or watts if you can help it so more climbing gears would seem to be able to help with that. Some people seem to think that a compact is a whimpy choice but to me it just makes more sense. On he cassette I agree, I prefer the 11 but for me it's for super fast pacelines and descents, it's amazing how much of a difference that makes.
I may not get this entirely right, but he told me that people often rely on compacts to generate more power and I already generate a sh$tload of it for my size so it wasn't going to get me more. Next time I see him, I will see if I can get more of a scientific rationale. Christina, whatever you do, do it now. I think making changes with only 8 weeks to go is ok, but anything later seems risky to me. I put on the 11-28 about 10 weeks before IM which is probably NOT a big deal. No idea whether the crank change is big or little on the body. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() SSMinnow - 2012-07-16 12:43 PM Christina, whatever you do, do it now. I think making changes with only 8 weeks to go is ok, but anything later seems risky to me. I put on the 11-28 about 10 weeks before IM which is probably NOT a big deal. No idea whether the crank change is big or little on the body. I won't get into my opinion on compact cranks, but I will say that the compact crank is probably not a timing issue except to really learn what gear ratios you actually have after a switch, but the the crank arm length could be. It can have an effect on knees, ankles, hips, etc. because you are actually changing the circumference of your pedal stroke. I believe you were talking about going 2.5mm smaller crank arms, which actually makes your pedal circle 5mm smaller, may not seem like much until you do it at 90 RPM for 112 miles...... |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() dino. whats your opinion on compact cranks? spill it. i'm thinking about getting rid of mine. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and it will make funny sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those sounds so you will tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. and then you will think, i didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. so take care of your damn bike.
shut up tony. and dino. and ryan. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 6:10 PM and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and it will make funny sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those sounds so you will tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. and then you will think, i didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. so take care of your damn bike.
shut up tony. and dino. and ryan. Sweat? |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() SSMinnow - 2012-07-16 7:13 PM fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 6:10 PM and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and it will make funny sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those sounds so you will tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. and then you will think, i didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. so take care of your damn bike.
shut up tony. and dino. and ryan. Sweat? just like when we hit it. |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 4:10 PM and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need learn how to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and be in the middle of a HIM and it will make a loud funny (actually scary) sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those made that sounds so you will look down to make sure your tire isn't flat or that something didn't fall off your bike tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. But then you will gradually notice that you were easily putting out 80% power with matching heart rate and now you cannot bring that power up above 70% no matter how high your heart rate goes. And people are passing you like you are standing still. It will take you another 25 miles to stop and try to figure out why the tire doesn't look centered but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. Your f'ing spoke is broken and you don't know how to fix a spoke that is completely snapped in half and the wheel is out of true, and then you will think, i have been riding like this for 25 miles and now you have to ascend Chalk Hill and there is no SAG in sight and you are not going to let this ruin your race. didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. So you will keep going and try to stay positive, but you will think, damn, if I had stopped when I first heard that noise, might I have flagged down the SAG support, did I see SAG along the way??? so, learn how to take care of your damn bike.
shut up Wish I were as smart as tony. and dino. and ryan. Ok, back to writing my long RR. Thanks, John, I didn't know how to paraphrase that little story. Too bad it really happened. Sorry about your rusty chain. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() kt65 - 2012-07-16 8:02 PM fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 4:10 PM and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need learn how to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and be in the middle of a HIM and it will make a loud funny (actually scary) sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those made that sounds so you will look down to make sure your tire isn't flat or that something didn't fall off your bike tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. But then you will gradually notice that you were easily putting out 80% power with matching heart rate and now you cannot bring that power up above 70% no matter how high your heart rate goes. And people are passing you like you are standing still. It will take you another 25 miles to stop and try to figure out why the tire doesn't look centered but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. Your f'ing spoke is broken and you don't know how to fix a spoke that is completely snapped in half and the wheel is out of true, and then you will think, i have been riding like this for 25 miles and now you have to ascend Chalk Hill and there is no SAG in sight and you are not going to let this ruin your race. didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. So you will keep going and try to stay positive, but you will think, damn, if I had stopped when I first heard that noise, might I have flagged down the SAG support, did I see SAG along the way??? so, learn how to take care of your damn bike.
shut up Wish I were as smart as tony. and dino. and ryan. Ok, back to writing my long RR. Thanks, John, I didn't know how to paraphrase that little story. Too bad it really happened. Sorry about your rusty chain. i love it!!! the edits.. not what actually happened. at least it didn't happen at mile 75 of an ironman!!!!! i can still, to this day, picture in my head clear as day when my spoke popped at texas. it was a loud bang and i had no idea what it was. and i don't ride with a power meter or even hr at the time but i remember thinking damn, i'm mgoing slow!!!! lol, i heard you busted it at mile 15. i didn't know you kept riding the damn thing for 25 miles... hahaha you truly are a badass, kim. |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 5:40 PM kt65 - 2012-07-16 8:02 PM fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 4:10 PM and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need learn how to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and be in the middle of a HIM and it will make a loud funny (actually scary) sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those made that sounds so you will look down to make sure your tire isn't flat or that something didn't fall off your bike tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. But then you will gradually notice that you were easily putting out 80% power with matching heart rate and now you cannot bring that power up above 70% no matter how high your heart rate goes. And people are passing you like you are standing still. It will take you another 25 miles to stop and try to figure out why the tire doesn't look centered but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. Your f'ing spoke is broken and you don't know how to fix a spoke that is completely snapped in half and the wheel is out of true, and then you will think, i have been riding like this for 25 miles and now you have to ascend Chalk Hill and there is no SAG in sight and you are not going to let this ruin your race. didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. So you will keep going and try to stay positive, but you will think, damn, if I had stopped when I first heard that noise, might I have flagged down the SAG support, did I see SAG along the way??? so, learn how to take care of your damn bike.
shut up Wish I were as smart as tony. and dino. and ryan. Ok, back to writing my long RR. Thanks, John, I didn't know how to paraphrase that little story. Too bad it really happened. Sorry about your rusty chain. i love it!!! the edits.. not what actually happened. at least it didn't happen at mile 75 of an ironman!!!!! i can still, to this day, picture in my head clear as day when my spoke popped at texas. it was a loud bang and i had no idea what it was. and i don't ride with a power meter or even hr at the time but i remember thinking damn, i'm mgoing slow!!!! lol, i heard you busted it at mile 15. i didn't know you kept riding the damn thing for 25 miles... hahaha you truly are a badass, kim. Or a stupida$$. Actually I rode it for 41. 15+41 equals 56. Damn. Back to my RR. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() badgerintx - 2012-07-16 5:37 PM SSMinnow - 2012-07-16 12:43 PM Christina, whatever you do, do it now. I think making changes with only 8 weeks to go is ok, but anything later seems risky to me. I put on the 11-28 about 10 weeks before IM which is probably NOT a big deal. No idea whether the crank change is big or little on the body. I won't get into my opinion on compact cranks, but I will say that the compact crank is probably not a timing issue except to really learn what gear ratios you actually have after a switch, but the the crank arm length could be. It can have an effect on knees, ankles, hips, etc. because you are actually changing the circumference of your pedal stroke. I believe you were talking about going 2.5mm smaller crank arms, which actually makes your pedal circle 5mm smaller, may not seem like much until you do it at 90 RPM for 112 miles...... I know! I'm freaking out a little but in recent weeks my rt knee has gotten a little sore. Hoping this will help since its what I've been fit to. Dino- Despite you adding to my anxiety with that last statement, ditto John. I'd love to hear your thoughts on compacts. A purchase has been made but it's not on yet.
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() kt65 - 2012-07-16 5:02 PM fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 4:10 PM and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need learn how to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and be in the middle of a HIM and it will make a loud funny (actually scary) sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those made that sounds so you will look down to make sure your tire isn't flat or that something didn't fall off your bike tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. But then you will gradually notice that you were easily putting out 80% power with matching heart rate and now you cannot bring that power up above 70% no matter how high your heart rate goes. And people are passing you like you are standing still. It will take you another 25 miles to stop and try to figure out why the tire doesn't look centered but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. Your f'ing spoke is broken and you don't know how to fix a spoke that is completely snapped in half and the wheel is out of true, and then you will think, i have been riding like this for 25 miles and now you have to ascend Chalk Hill and there is no SAG in sight and you are not going to let this ruin your race. didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. So you will keep going and try to stay positive, but you will think, damn, if I had stopped when I first heard that noise, might I have flagged down the SAG support, did I see SAG along the way??? so, learn how to take care of your damn bike.
shut up Wish I were as smart as tony. and dino. and ryan. Ok, back to writing my long RR. Thanks, John, I didn't know how to paraphrase that little story. Too bad it really happened. Sorry about your rusty chain. Hilarious you two! Sorry Kim that I am laughing at your pain Suzy - "shi@load of power for my size" - couldn't have been said better! My opinion on compact cranks is if you are running out of gears, you need to fix it. If not, stay with your setup. Shifting gears here and writing my marathon training plan. Really need to change the diet to maintain current weight. Appetite is still out of control even though my training volume is low. Would like to drop a few more lbs before next "A" race. With everyone's volume ramped up, what is your FAVORITE current weekly workout? I am switching to a run focus but find I am missing morning swims. One hour at 5 am - love it! |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() i hate getting up at 4:30 to swim for an hour at 5. but when the workday gets underway nothing makes me feels better than that 5am swim. so 10-4 on the 5am swim!!! |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() cbarnes1 - 2012-07-17 10:35 AM On my IPad waiting for a meeting to start so......favorite workout is my Lon ride which includes some intensity this year usually 4-5 hours low Z3 followed by some big gear work 30' 55rpm z3. Now that my FTP increased its a little harder but a great kick in the chamois!kt65 - 2012-07-16 5:02 PM fattyfatfat - 2012-07-16 4:10 PM and since we're talking bikes.. here's an expert tip... even if you ride the trainer for most of your rides you still need learn how to take care of your bike. because one day you might get on it and be in the middle of a HIM and it will make a loud funny (actually scary) sounds. and you can't figure out why its making those made that sounds so you will look down to make sure your tire isn't flat or that something didn't fall off your bike tweak the barrel adjuster and think everything is aok. but then it will still make noise. but you wont care because you are a badass and will crank away. But then you will gradually notice that you were easily putting out 80% power with matching heart rate and now you cannot bring that power up above 70% no matter how high your heart rate goes. And people are passing you like you are standing still. It will take you another 25 miles to stop and try to figure out why the tire doesn't look centered but then you will notice something as you crank away... your chain is brown. Your f'ing spoke is broken and you don't know how to fix a spoke that is completely snapped in half and the wheel is out of true, and then you will think, i have been riding like this for 25 miles and now you have to ascend Chalk Hill and there is no SAG in sight and you are not going to let this ruin your race. didn't buy a brown chain. and then you will stop cranking away to take a closer look at your chain. and then you will realize its rust. So you will keep going and try to stay positive, but you will think, damn, if I had stopped when I first heard that noise, might I have flagged down the SAG support, did I see SAG along the way??? so, learn how to take care of your damn bike.
shut up Wish I were as smart as tony. and dino. and ryan. Ok, back to writing my long RR. Thanks, John, I didn't know how to paraphrase that little story. Too bad it really happened. Sorry about your rusty chain. Hilarious you two! Sorry Kim that I am laughing at your pain Suzy - "shi@load of power for my size" - couldn't have been said better! My opinion on compact cranks is if you are running out of gears, you need to fix it. If not, stay with your setup. Shifting gears here and writing my marathon training plan. Really need to change the diet to maintain current weight. Appetite is still out of control even though my training volume is low. Would like to drop a few more lbs before next "A" race. With everyone's volume ramped up, what is your FAVORITE current weekly workout? I am switching to a run focus but find I am missing morning swims. One hour at 5 am - love it! |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() mighty mom - 2012-07-17 5:03 AM badgerintx - 2012-07-16 5:37 PM SSMinnow - 2012-07-16 12:43 PM Christina, whatever you do, do it now. I think making changes with only 8 weeks to go is ok, but anything later seems risky to me. I put on the 11-28 about 10 weeks before IM which is probably NOT a big deal. No idea whether the crank change is big or little on the body. I won't get into my opinion on compact cranks, but I will say that the compact crank is probably not a timing issue except to really learn what gear ratios you actually have after a switch, but the the crank arm length could be. It can have an effect on knees, ankles, hips, etc. because you are actually changing the circumference of your pedal stroke. I believe you were talking about going 2.5mm smaller crank arms, which actually makes your pedal circle 5mm smaller, may not seem like much until you do it at 90 RPM for 112 miles...... I know! I'm freaking out a little but in recent weeks my rt knee has gotten a little sore. Hoping this will help since its what I've been fit to. Dino- Despite you adding to my anxiety with that last statement, ditto John. I'd love to hear your thoughts on compacts. A purchase has been made but it's not on yet.
Christina, I may still be confused, but it sounds like you are running a 50/34 with a 12/25 on 172.5 crank arm length, is that right? Moving to an 11/28 made a nice difference for me when I got my tri bike. My roadie has a 12/25 and sometimes I was really grinding and having to stand in the 34/25. For MOO, I found the 50/34 and 11/28 to be perfect and spun up pretty well in 34/28 even on the steeper hills coming into Old Sauk. I wouldn't personally go to a 53/39 prior to MOO because there were rarely times I needed a harder gear for that race. Sometimes it happens to me on flatter longer stretches around here (rarely!), but not too often. But I do not pack the same punch as my twin, so I suppose it's all depending on whether you find yourself wanting harder gears? Bike peeps, Dino! Tony! Isn't crank arm length chosen somewhat dependent upon inseam? |
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