$1.79's Mentor Group FULL of fast people (Page 3)
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Ok - one more time here - I just went and looked at my P2 bike and I actually do have a 53-39 and 12-25, 170mm crank length. My bike is a 48 and I have 650 wheels. I do run out of downhill gears very quickly cause of the wheel size but I can live with that? More importantly I ride lots of hills where I live and wish I had one more climbing gear. So opinion on getting a 12-27? Or any other change that would help? Or leave it alone for a while? FYI - I have a 12-27 on my road bike and love it but I also have a 165mm, 50T crank with 700 wheels. Thx Edited by Lisa B 2009-04-27 8:39 PM |
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Member![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Hi Andrew, thanks for letting me join. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Checking in! Hope everybody had an awesome monday! |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Hey Dan, any luck making one of those Training Log Table things for our group? |
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![]() | ![]() Pegasus1731 - 2009-04-27 8:47 PM Hey Dan, any luck making one of those Training Log Table things for our group? Yep, I think so. Cut and paste the text out of this. It *should* work. Attachments ---------------- ADollar79Mentor Group.txt (0KB - 23 downloads) |
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![]() | ![]() Lisa B - 2009-04-27 8:37 PM Ok - one more time here - I just went and looked at my P2 bike and I actually do have a 53-39 and 12-25, 170mm crank length. My bike is a 48 and I have 650 wheels. I do run out of downhill gears very quickly cause of the wheel size but I can live with that? More importantly I ride lots of hills where I live and wish I had one more climbing gear. So opinion on getting a 12-27? Or any other change that would help? Or leave it alone for a while? FYI - I have a 12-27 on my road bike and love it but I also have a 165mm, 50T crank with 700 wheels. Thx What year is your P2? A compact crank would make a big difference for climbing, probably more so than a different cassette. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() hi Lisa.. can't help you with the gear questions (I don't even know what gearing I have). But I have a SwimSafe and it's one of the best investments I've made in tri gear. I do all of my OWS alone and with the SwimSafe I'm able to do it without worrying about my safety. I don't consider it beneficial to your swimming in any way besides saving you from drowning if you get into trouble. If anything it would add a bit of drag by having something wrapped around your waist, but on race day without it that won't be an issue. (I don't wear mine in races where there is support available). I say get one if you plan to do OWS alone. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() JessRod - 2009-04-27 9:42 PM
Don't sweat the gear talk. But do feel like you can ask ALL the questions you want. There is plenty to learn in this sport. Part of the reason I enjoy being a mentor is that I end up learning tons. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Sprint_DA - 2009-04-27 10:08 PM Lisa B - 2009-04-27 8:37 PM Ok - one more time here - I just went and looked at my P2 bike and I actually do have a 53-39 and 12-25, 170mm crank length. My bike is a 48 and I have 650 wheels. I do run out of downhill gears very quickly cause of the wheel size but I can live with that? More importantly I ride lots of hills where I live and wish I had one more climbing gear. So opinion on getting a 12-27? Or any other change that would help? Or leave it alone for a while? FYI - I have a 12-27 on my road bike and love it but I also have a 165mm, 50T crank with 700 wheels. Thx What year is your P2? A compact crank would make a big difference for climbing, probably more so than a different cassette. x2. The jump from a 50/34 to a 53/39 is pretty substantial and takes some getting used to. I assume your road bike is a 50/34 or even smaller. Do you have a triple on your road bike? I personally don't think you need the 12-27 but if it would make you feel more comfortable then by all means get it. Remember that you are MUCH stronger than you give yourself credit for. And one of the ways to become a stronger cyclist is to push larger gears on hills (within reason). Also, is Arnett having you train by cadence. I guess I am a little shocked that you would spin out on a 53/12 combination unless it was a big hill. I used to have that problem until I realized that it was my cadence that I was way off |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Sprint_DA - 2009-04-27 10:08 PM Lisa B - 2009-04-27 8:37 PM Ok - one more time here - I just went and looked at my P2 bike and I actually do have a 53-39 and 12-25, 170mm crank length. My bike is a 48 and I have 650 wheels. I do run out of downhill gears very quickly cause of the wheel size but I can live with that? More importantly I ride lots of hills where I live and wish I had one more climbing gear. So opinion on getting a 12-27? Or any other change that would help? Or leave it alone for a while? FYI - I have a 12-27 on my road bike and love it but I also have a 165mm, 50T crank with 700 wheels. Thx What year is your P2? A compact crank would make a big difference for climbing, probably more so than a different cassette. 2009 Ultegra |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ADollar79 - 2009-04-28 9:37 AM Sprint_DA - 2009-04-27 10:08 PM Lisa B - 2009-04-27 8:37 PM Ok - one more time here - I just went and looked at my P2 bike and I actually do have a 53-39 and 12-25, 170mm crank length. My bike is a 48 and I have 650 wheels. I do run out of downhill gears very quickly cause of the wheel size but I can live with that? More importantly I ride lots of hills where I live and wish I had one more climbing gear. So opinion on getting a 12-27? Or any other change that would help? Or leave it alone for a while? FYI - I have a 12-27 on my road bike and love it but I also have a 165mm, 50T crank with 700 wheels. Thx What year is your P2? A compact crank would make a big difference for climbing, probably more so than a different cassette. x2. The jump from a 50/34 to a 53/39 is pretty substantial and takes some getting used to. I assume your road bike is a 50/34 or even smaller. Do you have a triple on your road bike? I personally don't think you need the 12-27 but if it would make you feel more comfortable then by all means get it. Remember that you are MUCH stronger than you give yourself credit for. And one of the ways to become a stronger cyclist is to push larger gears on hills (within reason). Also, is Arnett having you train by cadence. I guess I am a little shocked that you would spin out on a 53/12 combination unless it was a big hill. I used to have that problem until I realized that it was my cadence that I was way off I don't have a triple on my road bike, just a double with a 12-27 (came with 12-25 but I replaced it over two years ago when I was doing MS150 and 3Gap. And yes, it has a 34-50. And no, I Arnett doesn't have me train by cadence but I tend to ride in the 90s unless I'm climbing and then I think 70s. Andrew - not sure if you've done the Roswell 45 miler, but it is very hilly. When I did it on Sunday (granted it was the day after a race) I found myself having to stand quite a few times on the big hills. I rarely have to or had to do this on my road bike. And I yes, I am a strong cyclist, it's my best discipline. So this, and riding it up till now and having trouble on the hills leads me to wanting another climbing gear. |
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![]() | ![]() Lisa B - 2009-04-28 9:01 AM Sprint_DA - 2009-04-27 10:08 PM Lisa B - 2009-04-27 8:37 PM Ok - one more time here - I just went and looked at my P2 bike and I actually do have a 53-39 and 12-25, 170mm crank length. My bike is a 48 and I have 650 wheels. I do run out of downhill gears very quickly cause of the wheel size but I can live with that? More importantly I ride lots of hills where I live and wish I had one more climbing gear. So opinion on getting a 12-27? Or any other change that would help? Or leave it alone for a while? FYI - I have a 12-27 on my road bike and love it but I also have a 165mm, 50T crank with 700 wheels. Thx What year is your P2? A compact crank would make a big difference for climbing, probably more so than a different cassette. 2009 Ultegra Nice! Those are very good looking bikes. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() cathyd - 2009-04-28 12:15 AM hi Lisa.. can't help you with the gear questions (I don't even know what gearing I have). But I have a SwimSafe and it's one of the best investments I've made in tri gear. I do all of my OWS alone and with the SwimSafe I'm able to do it without worrying about my safety. I don't consider it beneficial to your swimming in any way besides saving you from drowning if you get into trouble. If anything it would add a bit of drag by having something wrapped around your waist, but on race day without it that won't be an issue. (I don't wear mine in races where there is support available). I say get one if you plan to do OWS alone. Cathy - why did you get one in the first place? Do you have any swim issues or you just got it cause you do OWS's alone? Have you ever had to pull the cord? Or have you just to make sure it works and you actually float with what comes out? Thanks. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Lisa B - 2009-04-28 10:12 AM cathyd - 2009-04-28 12:15 AM hi Lisa.. can't help you with the gear questions (I don't even know what gearing I have). But I have a SwimSafe and it's one of the best investments I've made in tri gear. I do all of my OWS alone and with the SwimSafe I'm able to do it without worrying about my safety. I don't consider it beneficial to your swimming in any way besides saving you from drowning if you get into trouble. If anything it would add a bit of drag by having something wrapped around your waist, but on race day without it that won't be an issue. (I don't wear mine in races where there is support available). I say get one if you plan to do OWS alone. Cathy - why did you get one in the first place? Do you have any swim issues or you just got it cause you do OWS's alone? Have you ever had to pull the cord? Or have you just to make sure it works and you actually float with what comes out? Thanks. I got it because I was a bit worried just about swimming alone in a kind of isolated place (this is a park with a beach but it's not very busy and I swim out away from the beach). I'm not afraid of the water as I grew up swimming in this same river every day as a kid but I'm not a strong swimmer so I figure the SwimSafe is just a good idea for safety. And if I have a fatal heart attack or something I hopefully will have been able to pull the cord so they'll at least be able to find my body floating. I've never had to use it, and I've trusted that the thing will actually work so have tested it. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Lisa B - 2009-04-28 10:10 AM Andrew - not sure if you've done the Roswell 45 miler, but it is very hilly. When I did it on Sunday (granted it was the day after a race) I found myself having to stand quite a few times on the big hills. I rarely have to or had to do this on my road bike. And I yes, I am a strong cyclist, it's my best discipline. So this, and riding it up till now and having trouble on the hills leads me to wanting another climbing gear. This is the point I am trying to make. Of course you don't have to do this on your road bike...you have MUCH easier gears (ie Crank). You would be in a 34-27. Some of us could spin up Hogpen in that ![]() I am trying to recall how to look at gear ratios. Dan might be able to chime in here. For instance, I would be curious to know that if you are pushing your 39-25 what gear that equates to on your road bike. Most likely it will be something like your 34-21. So if you went and did the Roswell route on your road bike and limited yourself to 34-21, ideally you will have the same struggle. Make sense? I don't want to discourage you from buying the 12-27 if that is what you want. I personally don't think you will feel the extra 2 teeth all that much. And not for the money. The only difference between the cassettes are the last two rings. On the 12-25 they are 23-25 and on the 12-27 they are 24-27. FWIW, when I got my Lucero a few years ago I was shocked at how much trouble I had riding Stone Mountain. I couldn't climb for crap. I was always in my granny gears. The strength built up with time. This weekend's race was pretty hilly. I would say it was like Roswell....nothing long...mostly short and steep. I rode it with an 11-23. I never got into the 23 but I was out of the saddle on nearly all the hills. In retrospect, I wouldn't have chosen a different cassette. I don't think it would have changed much...hills would be easier...but I would be slower. That is the trade off ------------- Just as a caveat to our other participants....Lisa B and I know each other so I give her a bit more of a ribbing than I do typical beginners. Don't think I will be argumentative if you ask questions. I enjoy giving her a hard time. ![]() |
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![]() | ![]() ADollar79 - 2009-04-28 10:35 AM Lisa B - 2009-04-28 10:10 AM Andrew - not sure if you've done the Roswell 45 miler, but it is very hilly. When I did it on Sunday (granted it was the day after a race) I found myself having to stand quite a few times on the big hills. I rarely have to or had to do this on my road bike. And I yes, I am a strong cyclist, it's my best discipline. So this, and riding it up till now and having trouble on the hills leads me to wanting another climbing gear. This is the point I am trying to make. Of course you don't have to do this on your road bike...you have MUCH easier gears (ie Crank). You would be in a 34-27. Some of us could spin up Hogpen in that ![]() I am trying to recall how to look at gear ratios. Dan might be able to chime in here. For instance, I would be curious to know that if you are pushing your 39-25 what gear that equates to on your road bike. Most likely it will be something like your 34-21. So if you went and did the Roswell route on your road bike and limited yourself to 34-21, ideally you will have the same struggle. Make sense? I don't want to discourage you from buying the 12-27 if that is what you want. I personally don't think you will feel the extra 2 teeth all that much. And not for the money. The only difference between the cassettes are the last two rings. On the 12-25 they are 23-25 and on the 12-27 they are 24-27. FWIW, when I got my Lucero a few years ago I was shocked at how much trouble I had riding Stone Mountain. I couldn't climb for crap. I was always in my granny gears. The strength built up with time. This weekend's race was pretty hilly. I would say it was like Roswell....nothing long...mostly short and steep. I rode it with an 11-23. I never got into the 23 but I was out of the saddle on nearly all the hills. In retrospect, I wouldn't have chosen a different cassette. I don't think it would have changed much...hills would be easier...but I would be slower. That is the trade off ------------- Just as a caveat to our other participants....Lisa B and I know each other so I give her a bit more of a ribbing than I do typical beginners. Don't think I will be argumentative if you ask questions. I enjoy giving her a hard time. ![]() Throw in a cadence and I can figure it out using the gearing calculator. |
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![]() | ![]() Gear chart using MPH @ 60 RPMFor 650 x 23C / 23-571 / 26" road/tri tire with 170 mm cranks
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Dan and Dollar - you guys are awesome for helping me figure this out and explaining the gearing to me in terms I can SORTA understand. I don't want to change anything and then it not help enough to have made it worth it. And Dollar - I love your razzing! Keep it coming as it keeps me on my toes. |
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![]() | ![]() Gear chart using MPH @ 60 RPMFor 700 X 23 / 23-622 tire with 170 mm cranks
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![]() | ![]() So that's keeping Cadence the same, but with the smaller gears you'll probably be able to increase cadence to look more like this: Gear chart using MPH @ 80 RPMFor 700 X 23 / 23-622 tire with 170 mm cranks
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![]() | ![]() So, if you're having to grind up the hill (60rpm) in 39-27 you'll be doing 6.3 mph, if you try to go up the same hill in 39-25 at 60rpm you'd be going 6.8 mph. So you can see there isn't a big difference there. However, if you can spin up the hill (80rpm) in 34-27 you'll be doing 7.9. I figure you'd be able to see an increase in rpm because you're driving a much smaller chainring. Edited to reorganize and try to compile my thoughts. Gear chart using MPH @ 60 RPM
Edited by Sprint_DA 2009-04-28 11:13 AM |
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![]() | ![]() What will make the bigger difference is your front gearing. *I have no idea if this translates to cycling.* In motorcycling changing the front sprocket by 1 tooth makes a difference of 2 teeth in the rear. So in this case going from 34T in the front to 39T you're seeing a huge difference in the level of effort you have to use to see the same speed. This is the same at high speeds. However, as you go up in size in the front you're going to be able to go faster on the top end. The thing that makes this comparisson more difficult is that you're using two different sizes of wheels between the bikes. That means even at the same cadence and with the same gearing, you're going to be going two different speeds. |
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![]() | ![]() Gear chart using Gain RatiosFor 650 x 23C / 23-571 / 26" road/tri tire with 170 mm cranks
Gear chart using Gain RatiosFor 700 X 23 / 23-622 tire with 170 mm cranks
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![]() | ![]() The last set may actually be what ADollar was talking about. The ratio for you 39-25 on your tri bike is pretty equivalent to 34-24 on your road bike. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Thanks Dan. Hopefully we haven't scared anyone off by getting all technical and whatnot. |
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