Zipp Wheels: Tubular or Clinchers??? Help!!!!

I would add that you need to use latex tubes and a fast clincher tire.  No Gatorskins with butyl tubes.

I have had tubular rims in the past and they were great.  It's actually easier/faster to change a tubular once you learn how.  The problem for me was carrying a spare tubular.  It's always a pain.

Both pros/cons, since I switched to tubs I won't go back unless I have to.  I've had more pops from clinchers because the tube rubs something or just get over heated or hits something...then any glass or thorns with clinchers.  Also, have had tons of pops inflating them and the presta value comes outs...tubulars you can swap out the values.  For me, tubulars feel like I'm riding on two clinchers...but I'm a big guy so I feel this more.   Sounds like easy choice, well....changing tubulars is not hard, just a little work, removal of old glue, gluing and mounting.  Changing a clincher is 5-10 minutes and done.  Tubulars are 3 day process, unless you use the glue tape.  Just know that when you go tubulars, you need some extra stuff: acetone, glue, gloves, sand paper (fine), glue brush (old tooth brush is fine), new spare tires (ebay good source), few spare presta values, white plummer tape, something to hold the wheel (like a wheel tuner stand)....I just use an old bike that is flipped over, area with ventation for gluing/cleaning off old glue.  However, for me the ride and having less pops is worth it...besides, its pretty cool to see the quality of your work.

Get clinchers...simple and cheap to repair a flat.

My tubulars I only raced on and $80+ to change a flat is a bit pricey.

Check out the rolling resistance comparisons of various brands/models of tires with latex tires and go with one with lower rolling resistance.

x2.

Very personal choice.  I just chose to go with tubulars and am happy.  I don't typically race with a flat kit so the tubulars are a good choice for me (they flat less often).

Plus the wheel set is probably 400 grams lighter fully tire-laden. (doesn't matter....I know).

ive changed a entire tubular in a race in under 1 minute. I now carry a can of Presso only for small flats and no spare tyre and it works well unless the tyre gets split open which will normally end your race either way. Presso will get your tyre back to 70psi which is enough to get you to the finish in a reasonable time.

Would not go back to clinchers for racing. They flat easier and are heavier.

What kind of speed were you able to keep when it was flat?

People can have their opinions and I road tubulars for a long time but you state two properties that are nearly irrelevant.   May clinchers be a little bit heavier - well I could actually easily debate that but for the sake of simplicity I won't.  What people should care about is going faster, and with today's technology and LOW RR tires you can faster on clinchers than tubulars w/o the necessary hassle.  

Sure you can change a tubular in under a minute but then you have a poorly glued tubular that is easy to roll and quite dangerous.  When you flat at mile 5 of an Ironman and then race a poorly glued tubular you are going to lose many minutes slowing down for all the turns etc.  When you change a clincher, which can be done in under a minute as well, you get back on a wheel that is just as safe to ride as before the flat.

I pretty much stuck to clinchers because that's what all my training wheels were.  I was familiar, could change flats fast, didn't need various tires/tools/tubes...

I think tubulars are cool, but too much hastle to buy race wheels for them.

Can anyone speak of rolling a tubular vs. clincher?  I heard it's more apt to happen with tubulars (especially if not glued well).  Then how does one know if it's glued well?