Can you help me go slower?
-
No new posts
Moderators: k9car363, alicefoeller | Reply |
![]() |
![]() | ![]() I suspect the answer is, "Duh, that's the trade off for carbon!" Have a new, and first, all carbon hoops paired with direct mount brakes. I knew braking would be... not as great as aluminum/discs... but I recently got caught in the rain and, well, no muy bueno. Anything I can to help increase or is this just it. FWIW, the brakes are Bontrager which I have heard are "not as good as Shimano." |
|
![]() ![]() |
Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Coaching member | ![]()
|
![]() ![]() |
![]() | ![]() Originally posted by alicefoeller
Check on numbers 1 and 2. I'll try 3 next time it rains! ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Not sure if you are talking about racing only, or racing and training. If you are talking racing only: don't brake. ;-) If you are using them for training, I would seriously consider getting a cheap aluminum rim that is similar enough to the carbon one that when you swap for racing you don't have to spend too much time adjusting everything. This is what I have done -- train on aluminum, race on carbon. (Side benefit: You always go faster than expected on race day.) Also, you should contact the manufacturer of the rims and ask their advice about pads. Seriously. Don't just hunt down any pads that you hope might be better. Some pad/wheel combinations can be pretty bad, even delaminating the carbon in extreme cases. Other combinations can be bad in the sense that you might as well be using ice cubes for pads. The manufacturer should have some good recommendations for you. (Side benefit: you won't void the warranty on your wheels.) |
![]() ![]() |
![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Experior Not sure if you are talking about racing only, or racing and training. If you are talking racing only: don't brake. ;-) If you are using them for training, I would seriously consider getting a cheap aluminum rim that is similar enough to the carbon one that when you swap for racing you don't have to spend too much time adjusting everything. This is what I have done -- train on aluminum, race on carbon. (Side benefit: You always go faster than expected on race day.) Also, you should contact the manufacturer of the rims and ask their advice about pads. Seriously. Don't just hunt down any pads that you hope might be better. Some pad/wheel combinations can be pretty bad, even delaminating the carbon in extreme cases. Other combinations can be bad in the sense that you might as well be using ice cubes for pads. The manufacturer should have some good recommendations for you. (Side benefit: you won't void the warranty on your wheels.) Cool, thanks. I do have aluminum Flo 60's which I'll be using during the winter. If at all, I'd rather use the carbon until the weather gets crappy. They're Bontrager which, in my experience, has some of the best warranty. (And yes, ONLY using the Bontrager-approved pads!) So that's my roadie, and I race on my TT. ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Experior If you are using them for training, I would seriously consider getting a cheap aluminum rim that is similar enough to the carbon one that when you swap for racing you don't have to spend too much time adjusting everything. NOTE! Most likely you'll need to swap the brake pads when you swap wheels. So "adjusting" is part of swapping the wheels. |
|
![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Porfirio I suspect the answer is, "Duh, that's the trade off for carbon!" Have a new, and first, all carbon hoops paired with direct mount brakes. I knew braking would be... not as great as aluminum/discs... but I recently got caught in the rain and, well, no muy bueno. Anything I can to help increase or is this just it. FWIW, the brakes are Bontrager which I have heard are "not as good as Shimano." It's not as if braking on wet aluminum works well, I don't recall carbon being all that much worse? You can try a different brand. . . . but I'm not sure what else can be done other than buying a new bike with disc brakes and then buying new rims ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by briderdt Originally posted by Experior If you are using them for training, I would seriously consider getting a cheap aluminum rim that is similar enough to the carbon one that when you swap for racing you don't have to spend too much time adjusting everything. NOTE! Most likely you'll need to swap the brake pads when you swap wheels. So "adjusting" is part of swapping the wheels. Agree. I change the pads even if they supposedly work on both. I have a different set that I use on my race wheels only. |
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Porfirio I suspect the answer is, "Duh, that's the trade off for carbon!" Have a new, and first, all carbon hoops paired with direct mount brakes. I knew braking would be... not as great as aluminum/discs... but I recently got caught in the rain and, well, no muy bueno. Anything I can to help increase or is this just it. FWIW, the brakes are Bontrager which I have heard are "not as good as Shimano." What specific model of Bontrager wheels ? They do allow pads from swissstop on some of their models. Pads make all the difference. |
![]() | |||
![]() | |||
![]() | |||
![]() | |||
![]() |