Bike Modification...Opposite of the norm?
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I'm getting a new bike very shortly. I've already read every thread and question on road vs. tri bike and every other in between. I've decided to go with a tri bike as I'm pretty much only going to use the bike for tris. As I understand it the main differences are: Frame geometry (better for the legs), Functional areo bars, and a little less versiatilty on a tri bike. My question is, has anyone ever switched out the stock base bars on a tri bike and gone with drop downs and clip on areos? Most entry level tri bikes have clip on's with bar end shifters. So I guess to better word my question, turn a tri bike into a road bike cockpit? This would make it as multi use as a road bike but keep the frame advantages minus functional areo shifters. I always read questions about adding areos to a road bike but never this option. I'm not really even thinking of doing it myself I'm just wondering if it's ever been done. Thanks, Edited by KCD1974 2008-08-17 1:33 PM |
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Extreme Veteran![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() As you have stated, you have read a lot to make your decision. To add a little, a tri/TT frame is made for speed at the cost of some comfort and stability, and is not a great all around bike. A road frame has a better all around geometry, but sacrifices some speed and stiffness. I you want drop bars get a road frame and install clipons. Putting drop bars, on a tri/TT frame will bring your mass forward and down, increasing instability on the bike. Drops on a road bike are only there for getting into a more aero position. Watch how road pros race, they are mostly on the hoods. |
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Giver ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Lots of ITU pros do. |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() run4yrlif - 2008-08-18 9:22 AM Lots of ITU pros do. true, but those bikes are set up in a slack position. The ITU folks who also do non-drafting events will almost always ride a tri-bike with bull horns for the non-drafting races. I would strongly discourage putting drops on a tri-bike. If you feel drops are important then get a road bike, don't bastardize the tri-bike. As for comfort, there's no reason for a tri-bike to be uncomfortable. Personally I prefer a tri-bike for long rides (100 - 200 miles). On a properly fit tri bike your body is supported by your skeletal system, while on a properly fitted road bike you're using your muscular structure to support you. my $0.02 scott |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I wasn't going to actually do it...lol...I was just wondering if anyone ever has done it. It wouldn't be for comfort....aero, in my opinion, is very comfy. For versitility, braking and shifting in one place....that would be the only "benefit" easier in group rides etc..... I had simply never heard the question asked but heard the opposite quite a bit.
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() yaqui - 2008-08-18 8:00 PM run4yrlif - 2008-08-18 9:22 AM Lots of ITU pros do. true, but those bikes are set up in a slack position. The ITU folks who also do non-drafting events will almost always ride a tri-bike with bull horns for the non-drafting races. I would strongly discourage putting drops on a tri-bike. If you feel drops are important then get a road bike, don't bastardize the tri-bike. As for comfort, there's no reason for a tri-bike to be uncomfortable. Personally I prefer a tri-bike for long rides (100 - 200 miles). On a properly fit tri bike your body is supported by your skeletal system, while on a properly fitted road bike you're using your muscular structure to support you. my $0.02 scott Do you have a reference for the "skeletal" vs. "muscular" system argument? Interesting observation; I'd like to learn more. Lots of posters share your idea that a properly fit tri bike is indeed quite comfortable (mine's not perfect yet but is fast) and I'd like to learn how to help dial that in while still maintaining power and speed advantages. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Not saying you should but you could http://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Chrissie_Wellington_s_Cervelo_P2C_466.html |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() KML - 2008-08-18 6:31 AM ...To add a little, a tri/TT frame is made for speed at the cost of some comfort and stability, and is not a great all around bike. A road frame has a better all around geometry, but sacrifices some speed and stiffness. I never understand the argument that tri bikes are not as comfortable or stable; I bike 99% on my tri bike and am very comfortable and very stable, with none of the oft-complained-of "twitchy" steering. Furthermore, my tri bike is a great "all-'round" bike. Period. Now, if you ask if I as nimble and quick to have the bike respond in an emergency manoeuvre while in the aero position, then you may be on to something, because there's no way you can be down on the aerobars and have to react quickly like if you were riding in a large, close pack. However, I ride exclusively solo, and in any situation where there is potential for having to be defensive and quicken my reaction time, then I am prepared and riding on the basebar, not the aerobars. As for the road bike having better all-'round geometry: better for what? And sacrificing speed is a misconception, as you are actually sacrificing aerodynamics; the speed comes from the engine, not the machine.
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() So it has been done even by some top level folks. Very interesting. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I did it on mine. Eventually I might change it back but right now it is working great for me.
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I think I would like this as it seems that you could ride in groups but still be very comfy in areo. Of course you couldn't shift in areo...but you can shift and brake all in one spot. I don't know...this is getting my attention more than I thought it might. I have to agree though, riding in areo is FAR more comfortable. What did that cost to change up? Edited by KCD1974 2008-08-20 8:12 PM |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I spent about $250 for the shifters, which are Ultegra short reach, $90 or so for the Profile Carbon Stryke aerobars, and about $30 for the handlebar, which is a Salsa Poco (short drop and reach). It is super comfy to ride in aero, and I ride in aero a lot, but not all the time, especially on hills or in traffic, and I just prefer having STI shifters. The drops are nice to have for descents. Plus, I enjoyed customizing my bike to accommodate my super short appendages. |
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Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() pitt83 - 2008-08-19 8:18 AM yaqui - 2008-08-18 8:00 PM Do you have a reference for the "skeletal" vs. "muscular" system argument? Interesting observation; I'd like to learn more. Lots of posters share your idea that a properly fit tri bike is indeed quite comfortable (mine's not perfect yet but is fast) and I'd like to learn how to help dial that in while still maintaining power and speed advantages.run4yrlif - 2008-08-18 9:22 AM Lots of ITU pros do. true, but those bikes are set up in a slack position. The ITU folks who also do non-drafting events will almost always ride a tri-bike with bull horns for the non-drafting races. I would strongly discourage putting drops on a tri-bike. If you feel drops are important then get a road bike, don't bastardize the tri-bike. As for comfort, there's no reason for a tri-bike to be uncomfortable. Personally I prefer a tri-bike for long rides (100 - 200 miles). On a properly fit tri bike your body is supported by your skeletal system, while on a properly fitted road bike you're using your muscular structure to support you. my $0.02 scottLayman terms The TT bike has forward weight distribution, hence its geometry and aerobars, which allows the radius~elbows to rest on the on the pads. On drop bars you are gripping with your hands in all positions and using your upper body to support yourself. basic example... The pushup: arms extended and lowered without chest touching the floor is muscular road bike. Lay down on our stomach, rest on your forearms like the aero position. Skeletal TT bike. The latter you can do for an extended period of time Skeletal vs muscle Edited by reconbyfire 2008-08-22 11:46 AM |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() When I had my first bike..road bike with clip on aerobars, I rode in aero probably 90+% of the time and considered putting the bar end shifters on just because I didn't like having to move my arms each time I shift. I shift a lot to keep my cadence in my comfortable zone and I live in area where it really never is flat. Why go to the other type of brakes/shifting as you will have to be moving your arms a lot to shift and brake. I agree with what others have said use the bike as it is intended. It may take a little time to adjust to it but you will. A lot of bike shops are sort of anti tri bikes in most folks working there are roadies unless you go to a tri shop. So you get the buy a road bike talk. I bought a road bike and wish I had gone straight to a tri bike as I bought a tri bike within 18 months of buying my first road bike.
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Why not buy a road bike, and put a fast forward seat post on it to get the geometry you were looking for? |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I am considering the Cervelo team sololist as it has the seat post built in. My only "concern" with that is exactly the same as a couple of posts ago in which I wish I'd just gone str8 to the full tri set up. Limited budgets stink...ideally I'd just buy two bikes and ride the one I wanted lol. |