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2013-01-11 7:58 AM

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Expert
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Menomonee Falls, WI
Subject: Getting my Coax on!!!
So I am currently in the process of building my Man Cave in our basement which will have one room dedicated to our workout area with a TV on the wall.  I have completed the rough framing and all the electrical work and only need to run my coaxial cable for the TV(s) before the drywall goes up. 

My question is dedicated to the videophiles out there (and I know you're out there).  What is the recommended coaxial cable to run to my cable outlets.  I currently have Time Warner Cable and ironically I spent an hour on the phone with them and nobody was able to confidently answer my question so I gave up in order to respect my time.  After doing some internet searches it seems RG6 or RG59, but I am not certain which is better or if there is something entirely different?

I find it ironic and quite frustrating that I can wire an entire house with electricity with no problems, but I am confused and at a stumbling block with something as easy as running coax cable for the TV.  Any input is appreciated!


2013-01-11 8:01 AM
in reply to: #4573519

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Champion
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SRQ, FL
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

sbsmann - 2013-01-11 8:58 AM So I am currently in the process of building my Man Cave in our basement which will have one room dedicated to our workout area with a TV on the wall.  I have completed the rough framing and all the electrical work and only need to run my coaxial cable for the TV(s) before the drywall goes up. 

My question is dedicated to the videophiles out there (and I know you're out there).  What is the recommended coaxial cable to run to my cable outlets.  I currently have Time Warner Cable and ironically I spent an hour on the phone with them and nobody was able to confidently answer my question so I gave up in order to respect my time.  After doing some internet searches it seems RG6 or RG59, but I am not certain which is better or if there is something entirely different?

I find it ironic and quite frustrating that I can wire an entire house with electricity with no problems, but I am confused and at a stumbling block with something as easy as running coax cable for the TV.  Any input is appreciated!

RG6.

RG59 has reduced bandwith.

I will also suggest running a CAT6 Ethernet cable back there while you are at it, even if you don't yet have any devices that are networked.  You will soon enough.



Edited by TriRSquared 2013-01-11 8:02 AM
2013-01-11 8:29 AM
in reply to: #4573524

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Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
TriRSquared - 2013-01-11 9:01 AM

sbsmann - 2013-01-11 8:58 AM So I am currently in the process of building my Man Cave in our basement which will have one room dedicated to our workout area with a TV on the wall.  I have completed the rough framing and all the electrical work and only need to run my coaxial cable for the TV(s) before the drywall goes up. 

My question is dedicated to the videophiles out there (and I know you're out there).  What is the recommended coaxial cable to run to my cable outlets.  I currently have Time Warner Cable and ironically I spent an hour on the phone with them and nobody was able to confidently answer my question so I gave up in order to respect my time.  After doing some internet searches it seems RG6 or RG59, but I am not certain which is better or if there is something entirely different?

I find it ironic and quite frustrating that I can wire an entire house with electricity with no problems, but I am confused and at a stumbling block with something as easy as running coax cable for the TV.  Any input is appreciated!

RG6.

RG59 has reduced bandwith.

I will also suggest running a CAT6 Ethernet cable back there while you are at it, even if you don't yet have any devices that are networked.  You will soon enough.

Concur on cat6. Wireless is ok until you start with the Xbox, Netflix, etc. My living room has a switch with a WAP, PS3, and AV receiver connected. This way we can watch HD movies and surf or work on the laptop at the same time.
2013-01-11 8:42 AM
in reply to: #4573519

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Elite
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Cleveland
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

In addition to using RG6, make sure that it's marked at least as 'been swept to 3.0 GHZ'. Higher is better. Basically, it'll ensure a more consistently clean signal.  

On ethernet, if you can't find CAT6 or if it is too pricey, CAT 5e is perfectly fine.... both are capable of Gigabit speed. Only CAT6 is capable of 10Gb, but unless you're going to drop $10,000 on a 10Gb switch and more than $1k on each network adapter, you're not going to be running 10Gb for several years.

2013-01-11 8:42 AM
in reply to: #4573524

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Master
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Fulton, MD
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
TriRSquared - 2013-01-11 9:01 AM

sbsmann - 2013-01-11 8:58 AM So I am currently in the process of building my Man Cave in our basement which will have one room dedicated to our workout area with a TV on the wall.  I have completed the rough framing and all the electrical work and only need to run my coaxial cable for the TV(s) before the drywall goes up. 

My question is dedicated to the videophiles out there (and I know you're out there).  What is the recommended coaxial cable to run to my cable outlets.  I currently have Time Warner Cable and ironically I spent an hour on the phone with them and nobody was able to confidently answer my question so I gave up in order to respect my time.  After doing some internet searches it seems RG6 or RG59, but I am not certain which is better or if there is something entirely different?

I find it ironic and quite frustrating that I can wire an entire house with electricity with no problems, but I am confused and at a stumbling block with something as easy as running coax cable for the TV.  Any input is appreciated!

RG6.

RG59 has reduced bandwith.

I will also suggest running a CAT6 Ethernet cable back there while you are at it, even if you don't yet have any devices that are networked.  You will soon enough.

I'd second the Ethernet recommendation, along with another recommendation.  You may want to run the coax to an out of the way corner (or even a closet) and run an HDMI extender to where the back of the TV will be.  This will allow you to have any time of cable box with a "clean" look on the mounted TV. 

2013-01-11 8:52 AM
in reply to: #4573519

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Medford Lakes, NJ
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

I agree on RG6 and running an Ethernet cable while you are at it, but cat 5E is more than you need.  Cat 6 is significantly more expensive and difficult to work with, unless you buy a prefab length.  You can achieve gigabit speeds with Cat 5E. 

Make sure you dont run your coax and ethernet cables along side to the electrical wires.  Try to make them cross at 90 degrees where they over lap.  



2013-01-11 8:57 AM
in reply to: #4573519

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Omaha, NE
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

+10 or whatever we're on for adding ethernet, but assuming you're running HDMI to your TV I also recommend doing what I did.  Get some PVC pipe and build a raceway in the wall between your receiver and your TV.  I did this because today I'm running HDMI to my TV, but in 10 years it could be something totally different so I want to be able to easily fish a new wire through the wall.

Make sure you use 45 degree bends because it's hard to get the cable ends through 90 degree turns. 


Here's a picture of what I did in our living room when we built our house.  The receiver is in what is soon to be a cabinet down to the lower left by the cat 5e cable spooled up on the floor.  It was great because after we moved in and put the TV up there I just fished through the component and HDMI cables.  Then after a few years we replaced our surround system/DVD player that had HDMI as well so I pulled the component out and fished through another HDMI.

2013-01-11 9:00 AM
in reply to: #4573647

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Medford Lakes, NJ
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
tuwood - 2013-01-11 9:57 AM

+10 or whatever we're on for adding ethernet, but assuming you're running HDMI to your TV I also recommend doing what I did.  Get some PVC pipe and build a raceway in the wall between your receiver and your TV.  I did this because today I'm running HDMI to my TV, but in 10 years it could be something totally different so I want to be able to easily fish a new wire through the wall.

Make sure you use 45 degree bends because it's hard to get the cable ends through 90 degree turns. 


Here's a picture of what I did in our living room when we built our house.  The receiver is in what is soon to be a cabinet down to the lower left by the cat 5e cable spooled up on the floor.  It was great because after we moved in and put the TV up there I just fished through the component and HDMI cables.  Then after a few years we replaced our surround system/DVD player that had HDMI as well so I pulled the component out and fished through another HDMI.

 

I love this idea, just make sure you use fire stop at the open ends of the pipe.  Did building code allow PVC versus metal?  I would expect metal would be the requirement.  

2013-01-11 9:02 AM
in reply to: #4573519

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Champion
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Checkin' out the podium girls
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
How has NO ONE mentioned a beer fridge and tap are far more important than wiring?
2013-01-11 9:07 AM
in reply to: #4573647

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Expert
1121
1000100
Menomonee Falls, WI
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
tuwood - 2013-01-11 8:57 AM

+10 or whatever we're on for adding ethernet, but assuming you're running HDMI to your TV I also recommend doing what I did.  Get some PVC pipe and build a raceway in the wall between your receiver and your TV.  I did this because today I'm running HDMI to my TV, but in 10 years it could be something totally different so I want to be able to easily fish a new wire through the wall.

Make sure you use 45 degree bends because it's hard to get the cable ends through 90 degree turns. 


Here's a picture of what I did in our living room when we built our house.  The receiver is in what is soon to be a cabinet down to the lower left by the cat 5e cable spooled up on the floor.  It was great because after we moved in and put the TV up there I just fished through the component and HDMI cables.  Then after a few years we replaced our surround system/DVD player that had HDMI as well so I pulled the component out and fished through another HDMI.

That is a great idea and thanks for the picture.  I already put in the electrical box & cable box at TV height to avoid any cables hanging down.  Ironically I was thinking about fabricating something EXACTLY like this to easily fish any audio or video cables needed for other devices.  The picture helps a lot!!  Nice work.

2013-01-11 9:09 AM
in reply to: #4573654

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Expert
1121
1000100
Menomonee Falls, WI
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

pitt83 - 2013-01-11 9:02 AM How has NO ONE mentioned a beer fridge and tap are far more important than wiring?

Because a beer fridge is a given and so is the billiards table!!



2013-01-11 9:10 AM
in reply to: #4573654

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Master
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Fulton, MD
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

pitt83 - 2013-01-11 10:02 AM How has NO ONE mentioned a beer fridge and tap are far more important than wiring?

That was assumed to already be in place. 

2013-01-11 9:10 AM
in reply to: #4573650

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Pro
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Omaha, NE
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
otisbrown - 2013-01-11 9:00 AM
tuwood - 2013-01-11 9:57 AM

+10 or whatever we're on for adding ethernet, but assuming you're running HDMI to your TV I also recommend doing what I did.  Get some PVC pipe and build a raceway in the wall between your receiver and your TV.  I did this because today I'm running HDMI to my TV, but in 10 years it could be something totally different so I want to be able to easily fish a new wire through the wall.

Make sure you use 45 degree bends because it's hard to get the cable ends through 90 degree turns. 


Here's a picture of what I did in our living room when we built our house.  The receiver is in what is soon to be a cabinet down to the lower left by the cat 5e cable spooled up on the floor.  It was great because after we moved in and put the TV up there I just fished through the component and HDMI cables.  Then after a few years we replaced our surround system/DVD player that had HDMI as well so I pulled the component out and fished through another HDMI.

 

 

I love this idea, just make sure you use fire stop at the open ends of the pipe.  Did building code allow PVC versus metal?  I would expect metal would be the requirement.  

We've been in the house for almost 10 years now and at the time I had no thought whatsoever to building code.  I asked the builder about what I was doing and he said I was fine, so I suspect it wasn't an issue. lol I did stuff the ends with insulation after I put the cables in to keep the cold out in the winter, but that's about it.

The PVC does look a little close to the chimney in the picture, but the chimney is set back in there pretty far.  I'd say there's a good 2' gap between the PVC and the chimney.

2013-01-11 10:17 AM
in reply to: #4573650

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Central Mass
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
otisbrown - 2013-01-11 7:00 AM
tuwood - 2013-01-11 9:57 AM

+10 or whatever we're on for adding ethernet, but assuming you're running HDMI to your TV I also recommend doing what I did.  Get some PVC pipe and build a raceway in the wall between your receiver and your TV.  I did this because today I'm running HDMI to my TV, but in 10 years it could be something totally different so I want to be able to easily fish a new wire through the wall.

Make sure you use 45 degree bends because it's hard to get the cable ends through 90 degree turns. 


Here's a picture of what I did in our living room when we built our house.  The receiver is in what is soon to be a cabinet down to the lower left by the cat 5e cable spooled up on the floor.  It was great because after we moved in and put the TV up there I just fished through the component and HDMI cables.  Then after a few years we replaced our surround system/DVD player that had HDMI as well so I pulled the component out and fished through another HDMI.

I love this idea, just make sure you use fire stop at the open ends of the pipe.  Did building code allow PVC versus metal?  I would expect metal would be the requirement.  

Generally, RNC (Rigid polyvinyl chloride conduit) is acceptable for high voltage and low voltage wiring.  In the 2012 IRC, RNC is valid for every application.  Schedule 40 usually isn't used, cause it's more expensive than basic ENT (electrical nonmetallic tubing, the grey stuff), but it's legal.

Your area might not accept IRC, or might have amendments.  But usually, low-voltage in RNC is legal - often you've got to put high voltage in something else, or through rated assemblies, or in plenums they have to be in something else.



Edited by scorpio516 2013-01-11 10:18 AM
2013-01-11 10:44 AM
in reply to: #4573519

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Medford Lakes, NJ
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
I was thinking if there is a fire on the floor below, the PVC will melt long before the fire could burn through the wood.  Allowing the fire to spread more quickly to the second floor and then to the attic or floor above the fire place.   You can now get fire resistant spray foam, which may hold up better again a fire than insulation. 
2013-01-11 10:54 AM
in reply to: #4573851

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Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

otisbrown - 2013-01-11 10:44 AM I was thinking if there is a fire on the floor below, the PVC will melt long before the fire could burn through the wood.  Allowing the fire to spread more quickly to the second floor and then to the attic or floor above the fire place.   You can now get fire resistant spray foam, which may hold up better again a fire than insulation. 

The PVC on the left is actually the drain from the bathroom upstairs from there.  My PVC just ran down to the cabinet to the left of the fireplace.  It goes behind the top to bottom PVC, but it kind of looks like it's connected in the picture.



2013-01-11 12:12 PM
in reply to: #4573519

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Master
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Washington, DC Metro
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!

go with the pipe/chaseway for hidden cables 100%... nothing looks nicer than a simple screen on the wall.  Also what I did was to include a remote IR receiver as well that way you can "hide" all your gear in a closet, but still control it from the couch.  My cable box, surround sound receiver, and DVD player are all in the closet so you see absolutely nothing.

Also as a thought if you are a gamer, install a wall plate somewhere with the console connections on it and then wire that permanently into the TV or A/V processor so you can plug in your X-box or whatever when you use it without having to squirm behind the TV mounted on the wall to hook it up.  When not in use, again everything is nice and hidden.

2013-01-11 12:20 PM
in reply to: #4573519

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Medford Lakes, NJ
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
I just realized I am a schmedly.  I am going to go sit in the corner with a pointy hat. 
2013-01-11 12:46 PM
in reply to: #4573985

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Expert
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Menomonee Falls, WI
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
Sous - 2013-01-11 12:12 PM

go with the pipe/chaseway for hidden cables 100%... nothing looks nicer than a simple screen on the wall.  Also what I did was to include a remote IR receiver as well that way you can "hide" all your gear in a closet, but still control it from the couch.  My cable box, surround sound receiver, and DVD player are all in the closet so you see absolutely nothing.

Also as a thought if you are a gamer, install a wall plate somewhere with the console connections on it and then wire that permanently into the TV or A/V processor so you can plug in your X-box or whatever when you use it without having to squirm behind the TV mounted on the wall to hook it up.  When not in use, again everything is nice and hidden.

This is all great conversation.  Tell me more about the IR receiver?  I've something like this for a LONG time where I can stick my Time Warner Cable box in a closet, yet still control it with the current remote control.  What type of hardware is needed for that and how does it interface/connect to the cable box?

2013-01-11 3:07 PM
in reply to: #4574079

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Master
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Washington, DC Metro
Subject: RE: Getting my Coax on!!!
sbsmann - 2013-01-11 1:46 PM
Sous - 2013-01-11 12:12 PM

go with the pipe/chaseway for hidden cables 100%... nothing looks nicer than a simple screen on the wall.  Also what I did was to include a remote IR receiver as well that way you can "hide" all your gear in a closet, but still control it from the couch.  My cable box, surround sound receiver, and DVD player are all in the closet so you see absolutely nothing.

Also as a thought if you are a gamer, install a wall plate somewhere with the console connections on it and then wire that permanently into the TV or A/V processor so you can plug in your X-box or whatever when you use it without having to squirm behind the TV mounted on the wall to hook it up.  When not in use, again everything is nice and hidden.

This is all great conversation.  Tell me more about the IR receiver?  I've something like this for a LONG time where I can stick my Time Warner Cable box in a closet, yet still control it with the current remote control.  What type of hardware is needed for that and how does it interface/connect to the cable box?

So basically you have a box (about the size of a deck of cards or so) that goes in your closet with the rest of your gear that you want to control.  The box will have several small jacks on it that the IR emitters plug into (1/4 inch phono jack)  You plug an emitter into this and then attach the IR head to your equipment where the IR receiver is.  Then you wire in the remote receiver and mount that somewhere in the room that you will be sitting in.  I have mine mounted right above my center channel speaker which is also mounted on the wall below the TV... you don't even notice it.  That's it, easy-peasy.  Here is a link to the unit that I have.

http://www.smarthome.com/59505/Smarthome-Plasma-LCD-LED-CFL-Compatible-Surface-Mount-IR-Receiver-Kit/p.aspx

In the photo, the device at about 10 o'clock is the part that goes in the room with your TV, everything else is in the closet with your A/V gear.  You can see it is really pretty small and if you mount it in the right location you don't really even see it at all.  Like I said mine is right above my center channel speaker and it just looks like part of the speaker bracket.

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