How to remove and install cranks. A little pictorial "How To" for everyone!

Step 1: Removing existing pedals.

(You only have to do this of course if you are replacing your cranks and not just servicing/replacing the bottom bracket).  Using the 15mm side of the pedal wrench and starting on the drive side (or whichever you want) you will want to unthread the pedal by rotating the wrench towards the bike of the bike (direction of the finger).  See Step 1-1 picture.  Moving to the non-drive side, repeat.  Rotate towards the bike of the bike again, in the direction of the finger.  See Step 1-2 picture.  Once you have done the initial “breaking” of the threads, you should be able to simply spin the cranks forward by hand – like you are pedaling - and rotate the pedals off easily.  Easy enough!

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Step 2: Removing existing cranks.

Shimano 10-speed cranks are very simply held on by two 5mm bolts located on the non-drive side of the bike along with a large flat bolt that threads into the crank spindle.  First, using the 5mm tri allen back off the allen bolts that are on opposite sides of the non-drive crank arm.  Lefty loosey, righty tighty.  See picture Step 2-1.  Once you have backed off these two bolts you can then use the plastic Shimano bolt tool to loosen and remove the large and flat spindle bolt.  Refer to pictures Step 2-2 and Step 2-3.  That is all you need to use a tool for in this process.  From here you can remove the non-drive crank arm (Step 2-4), push on the spindle towards the drive side (through the frame – Step 2-5 picture) and the pull out the drive side crank arm and chainring system (pictures Step 2-6, Step 2-7).  Sometimes there may be a tight condition within your bottom bracket.  If this happens then just lightly hit the spindle with a rubber mallet.  No hammers or other heavy objects if you don’t want to screw up your threads!

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Step 4: Installing new bottom bracket.

As you can see from the New Cranks picture, everything you need to install the new cranks is included in the box except for the grease.  Key thing is to thoroughly read the installation guide because there are often very specific steps that need to be followed with aftermarket (as well as stock) parts.  In this case there is a specific order for the washers that need to be followed.

Just like the removal portion, you have drive and non-drive specific cups and these are indicated with wording on the cups themselves so it is easy to ensure proper locations.  Per manufacturer’s instruction, apply a thin coat of grease to the threads of the new shell before installing them.  As you did when you removed the old cups, hand thread them to start out.  If there is ANY binding at all, immediately back it out again and ensure that you have put it on the correct side, that you do not have any sort of object blocking the threads and finally that you are not cross threading.  In the images (Step 4-1, 4-2, 4-3) I have installed the drive side first and used the Pedro’s tool to tighten in the direction indicated with the finger.  Apply grease to the threads and insert and tighten the non-drive side in the direction indicated (pics Step 4-4 and 4-5).  Tighten the cups to the recommended torque from the manufacturer.  I do not typically use a torque wrench and go by feel.  Shame on me of course …….

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Step 5: Installing non-drive side crank arm.

In the case of the Zipp cranks, they have washers that are installed on the arms before you insert them through the bottom bracket.  This has two main functions. 1) To allow a larger surface for the face of the crank arm to contact the bearings and 2) To provide another level of protection to the bearings from dirt and such.  See picture 5-1 for placing the washer on.  It has a bevel on one side which is to be faced towards the bearings of the bottom bracket.  Next apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle itself and insert the spindle through the non-drive side of the bottom bracket (pictures Step 5-2 and 5-3).

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Step 6: Installing drive side crank arm.

Going over to the drive side of the bike, apply some grease to the threads that are located in the inside of the spindle and directly onto the splines of the spindle itself as in picture Step 6-1.  The Zipp cranks then have a very specific combination of washers that are applied to the drive side.  The first one is like the non-drive side, and then there is a “wave” washer that acts a little like a spring and then a solid aluminum washer.  See picture Step 6-2.  In the case of the Zipp crank, the self-extracting bolt system is already installed in the crank arm, so all you have to do is align the cranks to ensure they are 180 degrees opposite and thread the drive side onto the bb spindle.  Using the 10mm allen wrench, tighten fully to manufacturer’s recommended torque.  See picture Step 6-3.  A little trick to make life easier as you can see in the pics is to rest your chain on the bearing cups.  This way you do not have to twist or stretch the chain over/through/around the front derailleur to re-install it.

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Step 7: Re-installing pedals.

Having cleaned off the threads of your pedals, re-apply some new grease to the threads and starting on whichever side you want, thread the pedals on by hand.  Once again, these are side-specific so if you attempt to thread them on the wrong side you will get binding or other issues immediately.  The trick to putting on pedals is very easy.  Pedal backwards!  They will thread in immediately.  The use your 15mm pedal wrench to make your final tightening on each side.  Refer to pics Step7-1 through Step 7-5.

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Install your chain back on and congratulations!  You will want to double check to make sure the front derailleur operates correctly and that it shifts as required from the small to big chainring and that the Q factor has not changed so much that you need to tweak the set screws.  Otherwise, you’re done!!

In my case, this has reduced Sonia down to 14.6 pounds and officially puts her below the UCI weight restriction!  Guess I won’t be getting any calls to ride with Team Columbia any time soon

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For racing.

Training I use 2 so I don't have to stop as much for re-fills.

Dang Rick, awesome tutorial complete with some great photos and visual aids.

Of course you were very highly motivated for us all to get some great shots of your bike with the new Zipp Gear

If your not too busy, maybe you could do something similar for the procedure to Balance/adjust a Dual Carb setup on a 2180cc Type II I would be greatly in your debt  

I have had Ultegra 10-speed as well on my TT bike and it has always just been loosening the two 5mm bolts and then taking off the larger crank bolt.  I've never seen any sort of flip retainer??

WaterDog66 - 2008-08-31 8:02 PM If your not too busy, maybe you could do something similar for the procedure to Balance/adjust a Dual Carb setup on a 2180cc Type II I would be greatly in your debt  

Sorry, no help there.

But if you want something on doing a B18C swap into a Civic hatch or installing a Vortech supercharger on an S2000 I would be able to do that if you provide the car and parts.