Aero - am I missing anything?
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I think I have the setup dialed in pretty well, but wanted to see if anyone has any tricks that I might be missing. Tri-bike, great fit
so do you have any tricks that I'm missing? Anyone have any experience with toe covers?
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Riding strength and the metal toughness to stay on the gas throughout the whole ride... |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by briderdt Riding strength and the metal toughness to stay on the gas throughout the whole ride... yep I have those too, hoping to get to 27mph in sprints next year so any little aero benefits will help immensely |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() picture of the bike cover > H3 on the rear. More Robust tire on the rear. Latex? Shaving legs clean might not be better than shaving "patterns" in your leg hair (i'm serious) From stuff I've seen, the wingspan is not often the "best" helmet for most people. You know how helmets are though... Depending on whose data you listen to, shoe covers are either a little help to bad. For TT's anyways you want ones that are tight and rubbery to have any chance of it being a bonus. For Tris... Velotoze just released a "front" cover that works with tri shoes. They make the cheapest shoe covers I'd recommend. |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() x2 on a bike photo so we can see your other bottle(s), flat kit, other misc parts. You didn't mention latex tubes - those should be high on your list. |
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I like the HED3 rear better, not gonna give it up unless I end up with a true disc. I am using latex, sometimes I will use a conti GP4000s 23mm on the rear, depends on the road conditions. The wingspan seems to fit me well...and I got it cheap. I'll check out the front cover, thanks! What kind of shaving patterns haha? Position pics (note some of these may be before I put in the bottle between arms):
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Tape over the valve cutouts |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() depends on what you want to spend and how much you want to squeeze out frame with internal routing/integration is probably the quick ticket for big $ a true disc if you don't want to use a cover a slicker base bar aero brake(s) aero chainring optimized chain / chainrings / pulleys less bulky brake levers aero skewers cut off the excess material on your shoe strap you could route those cables better |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() i was thinking about the base bar/aero bars. I have limited adjustability with the current aerobars (can't slide forward or back). How much time can an aero base bar save? |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() *some Claims are just that... here's tririgs testing http://tririg.com/store.php?c=alpha&page=windtunnel_2 Cheapest option is probably an old vision base bar and whatever clip ons you like/find adjustable (the zipps are pretty good) Ventus and Tririg will be slippery, but the Tririg is expensive and the Ventus is not adjustable Some other good options out there, but it's hard to beat those 3 options if one fits the bill for you. |
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Pro ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Leegoocrap depends on what you want to spend and how much you want to squeeze out frame with internal routing/integration is probably the quick ticket for big $ a true disc if you don't want to use a cover a slicker base bar aero brake(s) aero chainring optimized chain / chainrings / pulleys less bulky brake levers aero skewers cut off the excess material on your shoe strap you could route those cables better Chris has covered it pretty well. The only other thing off the top of my head is latex tubes and tire pressure (I know that's Crr, and you asked about CdA, but it sounds like you want to optimize everything). Make sure it's correct. High pressures aren't faster, even though they may feel faster.
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by TriMyBest Originally posted by Leegoocrap depends on what you want to spend and how much you want to squeeze out frame with internal routing/integration is probably the quick ticket for big $ a true disc if you don't want to use a cover a slicker base bar aero brake(s) aero chainring optimized chain / chainrings / pulleys less bulky brake levers aero skewers cut off the excess material on your shoe strap you could route those cables better Chris has covered it pretty well. The only other thing off the top of my head is latex tubes and tire pressure (I know that's Crr, and you asked about CdA, but it sounds like you want to optimize everything). Make sure it's correct. High pressures aren't faster, even though they may feel faster.
I run latex tubes, 100 psi on the front, 105 on the back. 20mm tires on 19mm rims. I think I have that part optimized. I'm 155 lbs btw |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Torhans 30 *might* be faster than the BTA, especially if you can get it really close to the head tube. That Wingspan almost never tests the best for anyone. |
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Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by dmiller5 Originally posted by TriMyBest Originally posted by Leegoocrap depends on what you want to spend and how much you want to squeeze out frame with internal routing/integration is probably the quick ticket for big $ a true disc if you don't want to use a cover a slicker base bar aero brake(s) aero chainring optimized chain / chainrings / pulleys less bulky brake levers aero skewers cut off the excess material on your shoe strap you could route those cables better Chris has covered it pretty well. The only other thing off the top of my head is latex tubes and tire pressure (I know that's Crr, and you asked about CdA, but it sounds like you want to optimize everything). Make sure it's correct. High pressures aren't faster, even though they may feel faster.
I run latex tubes, 100 psi on the front, 105 on the back. 20mm tires on 19mm rims. I think I have that part optimized. I'm 155 lbs btw Rolling resistance you would be better off with 23mm tires, maybe even 23 on the front and 25 in the back. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by mike761 Originally posted by dmiller5 Rolling resistance you would be better off with 23mm tires, maybe even 23 on the front and 25 in the back. Originally posted by TriMyBest Originally posted by Leegoocrap depends on what you want to spend and how much you want to squeeze out frame with internal routing/integration is probably the quick ticket for big $ a true disc if you don't want to use a cover a slicker base bar aero brake(s) aero chainring optimized chain / chainrings / pulleys less bulky brake levers aero skewers cut off the excess material on your shoe strap you could route those cables better Chris has covered it pretty well. The only other thing off the top of my head is latex tubes and tire pressure (I know that's Crr, and you asked about CdA, but it sounds like you want to optimize everything). Make sure it's correct. High pressures aren't faster, even though they may feel faster.
I run latex tubes, 100 psi on the front, 105 on the back. 20mm tires on 19mm rims. I think I have that part optimized. I'm 155 lbs btw weighing the aero benefits against RR, 20mm conti SS on the front, 23mm GP4000s might have an argument...but the 25mm tire would be a joke on a 19mm rim, you're screwing with everything at that point and if you say then use a wider rim....there is a reason that pro cyclists use H3's |
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Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by dmiller5 Originally posted by mike761 Originally posted by dmiller5 Rolling resistance you would be better off with 23mm tires, maybe even 23 on the front and 25 in the back. Originally posted by TriMyBest Originally posted by Leegoocrap depends on what you want to spend and how much you want to squeeze out frame with internal routing/integration is probably the quick ticket for big $ a true disc if you don't want to use a cover a slicker base bar aero brake(s) aero chainring optimized chain / chainrings / pulleys less bulky brake levers aero skewers cut off the excess material on your shoe strap you could route those cables better Chris has covered it pretty well. The only other thing off the top of my head is latex tubes and tire pressure (I know that's Crr, and you asked about CdA, but it sounds like you want to optimize everything). Make sure it's correct. High pressures aren't faster, even though they may feel faster.
I run latex tubes, 100 psi on the front, 105 on the back. 20mm tires on 19mm rims. I think I have that part optimized. I'm 155 lbs btw weighing the aero benefits against RR, 20mm conti SS on the front, 23mm GP4000s might have an argument...but the 25mm tire would be a joke on a 19mm rim, you're screwing with everything at that point and if you say then use a wider rim....there is a reason that pro cyclists use H3's I was thinking wider rims since you were asking about new rims in your other post. I also say maybe to the 23/25 combo as I'm not sure that has been proven to be faster when looking at both aero and rolling resistance. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() oh gotcha, the other post was for road racing wheels, not tri |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by dmiller5 Originally posted by briderdt Riding strength and the metal toughness to stay on the gas throughout the whole ride... yep I have those too, hoping to get to 27mph in sprints next year so any little aero benefits will help immensely Train with the Cat 2's. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by briderdt Originally posted by dmiller5 Originally posted by briderdt Riding strength and the metal toughness to stay on the gas throughout the whole ride... yep I have those too, hoping to get to 27mph in sprints next year so any little aero benefits will help immensely Train with the Cat 2's. I do, and some Cat 1's |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Categories for bike racing, 5 to 1 (or really 5 to 1/2/pro) you upgrade with experience, points, etc. For cycling, has no bearing on triathlon. |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() weighing the aero benefits against RR, 20mm conti SS on the front, 23mm GP4000s might have an argument This is probably a good balance for riding comfort. The old bonty 19mm up front is ideal if you can find them anymore. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() |
![]() | For any who think they're not missing anything with lower mileage run training Pages: 1 2 | ||
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![]() | Am I missing anything Pages: 1 2 | ||
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