LaurenSU02's group - CLOSED! (Page 27)

Yup!  That's the test!  Nope, it wasn't Fleet Feet.  It was some other local running shop.  Do it sometime if you get a chance.

To save you some time flipping back... I suggested this one before:

http://www.furman.edu/first/2006%20marathon%20training-first%20marathon.pdf 

don't know if you were interested in it or not, but I think it's great because you can easily fit in swimming and biking with it

owl_girl - 2008-05-15 11:03 AM I've got a bike question for everyone.  I am going to get a new road bike.  I really HATE my road bike.  I LOVE my tri bike.  Anyway, there are lots of hills in my part of the world.  They are hella steep, too!  I can climb them much easier on my tri bike (which is a double) than I can on my road bike (which is a triple).  What kind of gear ratios for the front and back do you guys have or suggest.  Do you have a triple or a double?  Nine speed or 10 speed cassette?  What about crank length?  Could wheel size have anything to do with it?  My tri bike has 650 wheels while the road bike has 700s.  Please help!!

OK....  Most likely, without knowing the gear ratios, everything being the same, the 650 compared to the 700 is what you are feeling (why it's easier).  650 wheels being smaller need less torque (force) to turn them.  However, you need to spin faster with the same gearing to go as fast as your road bike......

Triple chain rings are not a bad thing, but I think most people would prefer the weight savings with a double and get stronger at biking.  If you have trouble with hills, you can get a different rear cassette, which is easier to change (within reason).

I run a double with a 12-27 rear 9 speed for the hills here.  700 wheels and 175 crank arm length.  I would prefer to run a 11-21 or 11-23, but I don't think I'm strong enough on the steeps....  I like that 27 when it get's steep and I use it a LOT.

In summary:

• Stick to the crank length that came with your bike (most likely a 170 or 172.5 if you have 650 wheels)
• go with a 12-27 rear cassette with the hills in your area. 
• The standard 53/39 crank should be ok, BUT if you are running into climbing issues, you could go with a compact crank 50/36 (but still use your 170 crank arm length)
• 9 or 10 speed doesn't offer much IMO.  There are plenty of gear choices in 9 speed.

If you get a chance, look at the cranks and cassettes of both your bikes.  There should be a number etched on them somewhere (hard to see/find) sometimes.  That would tell you what you have.

Aikidoman - 2008-05-15 11:36 AM

owl_girl - 2008-05-15 11:03 AM I've got a bike question for everyone.  I am going to get a new road bike.  I really HATE my road bike.  I LOVE my tri bike.  Anyway, there are lots of hills in my part of the world.  They are hella steep, too!  I can climb them much easier on my tri bike (which is a double) than I can on my road bike (which is a triple).  What kind of gear ratios for the front and back do you guys have or suggest.  Do you have a triple or a double?  Nine speed or 10 speed cassette?  What about crank length?  Could wheel size have anything to do with it?  My tri bike has 650 wheels while the road bike has 700s.  Please help!!

OK....  Most likely, without knowing the gear ratios, everything being the same, the 650 compared to the 700 is what you are feeling (why it's easier).  650 wheels being smaller need less torque (force) to turn them.  However, you need to spin faster with the same gearing to go as fast as your road bike......

Triple chain rings are not a bad thing, but I think most people would prefer the weight savings with a double and get stronger at biking.  If you have trouble with hills, you can get a different rear cassette, which is easier to change (within reason).

I run a double with a 12-27 rear 9 speed for the hills here.  700 wheels and 175 crank arm length.  I would prefer to run a 11-21 or 11-23, but I don't think I'm strong enough on the steeps....  I like that 27 when it get's steep and I use it a LOT.

In summary:

• Stick to the crank length that came with your bike (most likely a 170 or 172.5 if you have 650 wheels)
• go with a 12-27 rear cassette with the hills in your area. 
• The standard 53/39 crank should be ok, BUT if you are running into climbing issues, you could go with a compact crank 50/36 (but still use your 170 crank arm length)
• 9 or 10 speed doesn't offer much IMO.  There are plenty of gear choices in 9 speed.

If you get a chance, look at the cranks and cassettes of both your bikes.  There should be a number etched on them somewhere (hard to see/find) sometimes.  That would tell you what you have.

Here's some more info.

Tri bike--Cranks=170, Front=42/55, Back=11/23, Wheels=650

Road bike--Cranks=165, Front=30/42/52, Back=12/26, Wheels=700

I can climb the same 2 mile long hill about 4 minutes faster with a lower heartrate on the tri bike than I can on the road bike.  I've tested it a few times with the same results.

x 2!!!

hahahah.. don't worry, one day we'll know what they're talking about   I'm surprised at how much tri and bike lingo I've picked up in the past few months, but these discussions are way over my head!

I was just about to say "IT WAS CLAIRE NOT AIKIDOMAN!"

Traci, I can go with either the Furman training program (even though they're a hated rival of my alma mater), or I can go with the 20-week Marathon BT program and do what Claire said and only do the 3-tough runs per week and cross-train the rest of the time.  If I recall, the BT program has a lot of "walk for 30 minutes" and other things like that.  I guess I could copy-in the Furman one during free time...HAAA!

Boston, I agree with you.  I'm like bike blah blah blah wheel blah blah.  Like you, I just need to get more (Time in the saddle) and then I'll worry about gear ratios and stuff like that. 

Lucky for Tracy though, there are people like Aikidoman who are smart on bike stuff.

When I first joined the land of BT (about December of last year) I knew just about nothing about bikes. Lucky for me, my husband gave me a bike book for Christmas ("Bicycle maintenance and Repair" ) and every time I had gotten lost on the forums about bikes, I just looked up the words and numbers I didn't know. I must say that I've learned a ton since then, and boy do I feel cool walking into the local bike shop and can use (some) of the correct bike-terms!

owl_girl - 2008-05-15 2:52 PM

Aikidoman - 2008-05-15 11:36 AM

owl_girl - 2008-05-15 11:03 AM I've got a bike question for everyone. I am going to get a new road bike. I really HATE my road bike. I LOVE my tri bike. Anyway, there are lots of hills in my part of the world. They are hella steep, too! I can climb them much easier on my tri bike (which is a double) than I can on my road bike (which is a triple). What kind of gear ratios for the front and back do you guys have or suggest. Do you have a triple or a double? Nine speed or 10 speed cassette? What about crank length? Could wheel size have anything to do with it? My tri bike has 650 wheels while the road bike has 700s. Please help!!

OK.... Most likely, without knowing the gear ratios, everything being the same, the 650 compared to the 700 is what you are feeling (why it's easier). 650 wheels being smaller need less torque (force) to turn them. However, you need to spin faster with the same gearing to go as fast as your road bike......

Triple chain rings are not a bad thing, but I think most people would prefer the weight savings with a double and get stronger at biking. If you have trouble with hills, you can get a different rear cassette, which is easier to change (within reason).

I run a double with a 12-27 rear 9 speed for the hills here. 700 wheels and 175 crank arm length. I would prefer to run a 11-21 or 11-23, but I don't think I'm strong enough on the steeps.... I like that 27 when it get's steep and I use it a LOT.

In summary:

• Stick to the crank length that came with your bike (most likely a 170 or 172.5 if you have 650 wheels)
• go with a 12-27 rear cassette with the hills in your area.
• The standard 53/39 crank should be ok, BUT if you are running into climbing issues, you could go with a compact crank 50/36 (but still use your 170 crank arm length)
• 9 or 10 speed doesn't offer much IMO. There are plenty of gear choices in 9 speed.

If you get a chance, look at the cranks and cassettes of both your bikes. There should be a number etched on them somewhere (hard to see/find) sometimes. That would tell you what you have.

Here's some more info.

Tri bike--Cranks=170, Front=42/55, Back=11/23, Wheels=650

Road bike--Cranks=165, Front=30/42/52, Back=12/26, Wheels=700

I can climb the same 2 mile long hill about 4 minutes faster with a lower heartrate on the tri bike than I can on the road bike. I've tested it a few times with the same results.

check out this link:

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

at first i was surprised that you have such tough gears on the tri bike but climb better - but then i realized it might have to do with the 650cc wheels.  so, for your new road bike, are you set on 700 or 650?  i think you'd be all right sticking with 700 (there are reasons smaller tri-bikes should have 650 wheels that are no so much so for road bikes).  but then you can try and find something fairly equivalent, gear ratio wise, from your tri to a new road bike.  the calculator thing is pretty cool. 

i personally have a compact crank in the front (50/34) and a 12-25 in the back, and 172.5mm cranks, works pretty well for me.  i like having the compact because it's kinda hilly here.  i have a 9 speed in the back, it's fine.  if i were going to do lake placid or something, i'd probably get myself a 12-27 in the back, but i'm not .

and to everyone - i picked this up in the last YEAR!!!  it comes pretty fast once you take your bike apart for the first time . 

So you don't go to a bike shop and say "I think it's broke" and hand them the bike? That works with the guys out here... Which reminds me, I need to stop by there on the way home.

A bike book would be a good purchase since I already blew through Friel's "The Triathlete's Training Bible."

Well I think I have my very first sinus infection Started bugging me soon after yesterday's swim. Guess I should avoid the pool for a while, have any of you delt with this? Do you bother going to the doctor or just wait it out? A week off from swimming followed by a week of vacation (leaving next Thursday) = 2 weeks off from swimming.... not good...

Not anymore! I say "I think there's a problem with my rear derailleur.... and while I'm here, I'd like to discuss my options for a new cassette..." and boy do I think I'm cool!

WOW!  Your tri bike is geared up for the "big boys" (55 in the big ring?  Whoa) - Other than the 650 wheels, that machine is probably best for the flats.  Good on ya for being able to climb with it.

It's tough to say why you would be faster on the tri bike on that hill.  I messed around with the calculator and checked some of your gear-inches abnd it looks like there are several gear combinations on the roadie that should be about the same thing as your tri bike.  In fact there should be some easier gears on the roadie.

There is a lot going on - different wheels, cranks and gears.  It could be that you find a certain gearing that's comfortable on both bikes and the tri bike is faster.  Then there could be bike weight that plays a factor too.  If you really wanted to find out, you may have to throw both of them on a computrainer or get a power meter to see what you are cranking out.  As for me, I can actually get more speed/power at a certain HR if I spin a little slower in a bigger gear (I'm more a masher than spinner).  If I spin really fast, my HR goes up but I don't get the speed gains that I would expect.

I really like your tri bike set up.  If I were to do anything, it would be to get a new rear cassette or maybe switch the road cassette with the tri if they are compatible.  However, if you go to a 23 to a 26 (big ring in the cassette), you may have to add a link or two in the chain. - it would be close though).  I think if you had a 25 or 27 in the back, you would really feel the difference.

As a side note, if I had your gearing on my bike (700 wheels and 175 crank) I could do 35 mph in the 55 and 11 combination (at 90 rpm).  THAT'S cooking.....  I can barely keep my legs up with the bike at that speed right now....

Like I told Traci, Drink hot tea and take an Airborne.  I don't know why it works so well, but it does.  I get all kinds of funk flying all the time, but I take that stuff and somehow it works like gangbusters.

Although, if you skip the swim, I don't know that you lose too much.  Afterall, it's < a quarter of the race time right?

Isn't someone racing this weekend?

I know Traci is doing the Marine Corps Half Marathon! That should be great.  Anyone else?

It's also Armed Forces Day this Saturday so I want to send a shout-out to jjweav since he's the only one still on Active Duty on here.  Thanks for your service bro!

I'm out!

 Sinus infections suck.  The only thing that works for me is prescription strength Sudafed, 120mg.  This stuff is like speed though so don't take it at night and drink lots of water, it will dry you out.  

Thanks for the info. I agree, whatever this is it does indeed suck. I think I may try to visit the doctor tomorrow because my eye is also kind of icky...

I'll have to play with that calculator that Lisa suggested.  Won't have time until tomorrow.  Just got home from work and I need to get up early.  Ugh!

Yeah, that puppy can FLY on the flats!!!  It is so much fun!!!  Too bad there isn't much flat ground around here.  I'm happy with how fresh I feel after a ride on it.

I'm leaning toward the crank length discrepancy between the bikes as being the culprit of my climbing issue.  I'm not an engineer (nor did I do very good in in my college Physics class) but I just don't think I can get much torque on the shorter cranks.  What do you think of this hypothesis?

Yes, the weight difference between the bikes could be an issue.  We are only talking about a few pounds, though.

I'll be keeping the tri bike gearing the way it is.  The more I climb on it, the better I will get at climbing on big gears.  I would just like to go for a ride with my friends and not get dropped on hills or drop them on the flats!

Yeah!  My head is spinning trying to figure out how to get my butt up a hill faster!  There are so many options out there! 

Tracy, I checked your weather on your log.  What a strange weather pattern.  It says it's 92 and 89% humiditiy today and then it drops to 64 tomorrow? That's some strange weather.  I'd expect that in Maryland but not so much in NoCal.

My Garmin Arrived!!! I'm really happy.  The other one was definitely fubar.  This one was picking-up satellites in my living room while I was setting-it-up.  I'm excited to use it on my run tomorrow.

Still no baby.

As I was swimming this morning, I thought of how a few people have said they should get with a masters swim team.  But the thing with those is that they make you do X laps of Breast Stroke and X laps of Back Stroke and X strokes of the most pointless stroke in the world, Butterfly.  If you just get-up with a tri-group, you can focus on the only stroke that matters come race-time, Free!

I gotta go get a new saddle this afternoon thanks to Lisa posting the SheldonBrown.com website.  I found out that my saddle was leaning too far forward (which I should've known because my hands fall asleep from how much I lean forward).  It was a gel seat (which means it was fine for the first few miles and then started chafing like crazy.  Good thing is I get an excuse to make an impulse buy...

Happy Friday everyone!!!

I did masters for the first time ever this past winter. It is true we did lots of other strokes (even butterfly... but the coach said I was doing more headbanging than butterfly). I found everything very helpful though, these other strokes was like cross-training for swimming and just made me better at balancing my body in the water (especially backstroke). We also did a "video stroke clinic" where we got analyzed by the coach under water. Best of all made some good friends there. The end result for me: I chopped about 8 minutes off my approximate pool mile time.

Note that the group I was in was meant for beginners, so everything we did got a lesson first and the workout yards were very low. There was a seperate swim time for the more advanced swimmers.