Ironman Coeur d'Alene : Official Thread (Page 64)
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() gojogo - 2011-03-13 12:59 PM I just got back from my long run. It was a planned 1:40 easy recovery run. It was so nice out that I decided to keep going anc complete my 13.1 mile loop and skip the trainer ride after. I finsihed the run in 2:13:30. This is about the same time asI finished the Chicago 1/2 Rock'n Roll. This was a great confirmation that my training is making me stronger. Just had to share.
Love it. There is no better feeling than going long on the bike or run and feeling great in the end. |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I know you guys are racing, but if you have friends who want to volunteer, sign-ups are available: http://www.doitsports.com/volunteer2/jobs-by-date.tcl?event_id=23879 Edited by spudone 2011-03-13 5:01 PM |
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Veteran![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Another bike fit question...(Josh - thanks for the reply a week or two ago). I'm riding a Cervelo P2C and am trying to get dialed in on best fit for endurance power output. Currently I'm moving my seat forward and higher to open up hip angle (not really relevant to the question I suppose). Here's the question...how long/far do y'all try out a new "settings" before determining a "go" or "no-go"? thx. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() cam111 - 2011-03-13 6:33 PM Another bike fit question...(Josh - thanks for the reply a week or two ago). I'm riding a Cervelo P2C and am trying to get dialed in on best fit for endurance power output. Currently I'm moving my seat forward and higher to open up hip angle (not really relevant to the question I suppose). Here's the question...how long/far do y'all try out a new "settings" before determining a "go" or "no-go"? thx.
self-tinkering with your fit is risky business. Did you get professionally fit to your bike when you bought it? If so, I'd ride that until you feel like something isn't right... for example if you lose weight you might be able to go lower in the front since a gut isn't in the way anymore. You would remove a spacer, or flip your stem, etc... but also make adjustments to your seat to maintain basic joint angles. In general, moving your bars lower will require the seat to come forward, and moving your seat forward will also require raising your seat (to maintain the same height from bottom bracket to hip). There are two reasons to tinker with your fit: 1) you are uncomfortable. 2) you think you could ride more aggressively without compromising comfort (and perhaps power too). However, sometimes it is faster to get more aerodynamic even if you lose some power in the process... although the reverse is also true: you can definitely be more aero but slower if you lose too much power (usually by closing the hip angle too much). But almost universally, it's going to be very hard to maintain aero for IM distances if you aren't comfortable (which is why my number 1 and 2 are in the order they are). The best money you can spend, if you haven't already, is a few hundred bucks for 2 hours with a fitter who knows what s/he's doing. Otherwise, I'm afraid tinkering is just as likely to mess something up as it is to fix something. There are so many variables that moving one can mess up 3 others unless you are thinking very much about the bike/rider as a system. A good fitter will get you in a position that is comfortable, aerodynamic, and powerful, with any compromises in one of those being calculated for more gains (speed) by an increase in the other. DIYing that, especially if you are inexperienced, is quite a gamble. Just to drive the point home (and I defer to others who understand fit better than me)... but moving your seat forward and up, in isolation, will NOT open up your hip angle. Just my humble opinion... I've read a good bit about bike fit and would never consider doing it myself. Edited by JoshKaptur 2011-03-13 6:49 PM |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Welp...training race #2 in the books. Ran the Sacramento Shamrockn' half today with a 7 minute PR of 1:42. Pretty damn happy with where my run training is right now. Bike focus week while my legs recover. ![]() |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() This tune made me think of y'all this morning. Hope there are some British Indie rockers out there:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=riV77WoFCBw#at=137 |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() phatknot - 2011-03-14 7:35 AM This tune made me think of y'all this morning. Hope there are some British Indie rockers out there:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=riV77WoFCBw#at=137 Love Arctic Monkeys! |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() The wife and I did a century this weekend. Felt pretty good after our average speed (even with a strong headwind the entire way) was pretty good. However after neither one of us wanted to think about running a marathon. Still lots of work to be done. |
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Champion ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Did you know that long runs are harder when you start with tired legs? |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() JoshKaptur - 2011-03-13 6:44 PM The best money you can spend, if you haven't already, is a few hundred bucks for 2 hours with a fitter who knows what s/he's doing. just a little story. I recently bought a new bike. I was more comfortable in the neck and shoulders by a huge margin but was dissapointed with my speed and how drained I felt after rides. I was fitted at purchase by the same fitter who set me up on previous bike. After 3 months of a comfortable front but no less power I rescheduled a fit (same guy). We changed several things and I increased my speed by 1.25mph on a 60 mile ride and felt freash as a Georgia March day after. Huge difference - Freaking huge. 2 points - fits are worth the money, second if it 'ain't" feeling right, no matter who fit you, give it some time but do not be afraid to try a second position with a professional fitter. They want you to be right - it may take a couple of positions to get it right. At least it did with me. I agree on self tinkering. I am sure my small adjustments had added to my problems and for dang sure were not solving the big problem |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() jackson61802 - 2011-03-14 1:08 AM Welp...training race #2 in the books. Ran the Sacramento Shamrockn' half today with a 7 minute PR of 1:42. Pretty damn happy with where my run training is right now. Bike focus week while my legs recover. ![]()
AWESOME TIME - GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Extreme Veteran![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() jackson61802 - 2011-03-14 1:08 AM Welp...training race #2 in the books. Ran the Sacramento Shamrockn' half today with a 7 minute PR of 1:42. Pretty damn happy with where my run training is right now. Bike focus week while my legs recover. ![]()
Nice Race- congrats on the PR. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Equipment questions: I have a Garmin 305 for running, great tool. 1. I got a new bike (Felt B16) and need to get an odometer/cadence/speedometer for it. I would like to get a wireless one. I don't want to use my Garmin on the bike, it is too clunky to wear on the bike. Any suggestions? 2. For the same bike, I also need to get a mechanism for holding my flat kit and maybe a water bottle or two. Suggestion for this? Looking for items that are economical yet effective. :-) |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() RunRene - 2011-03-14 5:50 PM Equipment questions: I have a Garmin 305 for running, great tool. 1. I got a new bike (Felt B16) and need to get an odometer/cadence/speedometer for it. I would like to get a wireless one. I don't want to use my Garmin on the bike, it is too clunky to wear on the bike. Any suggestions? 2. For the same bike, I also need to get a mechanism for holding my flat kit and maybe a water bottle or two. Suggestion for this? Looking for items that are economical yet effective. :-) Most economical bike solution will be to use the 305 with the quick release kit and the speed/cadence sensor... then you don't need to wear it... you just snap it on your bike. For a flat kit, I recommend a small seat bag. For race day, I had a tube tucked under my seat and taped in. I also carried a tube, 2 levers, and a multitool in my back jersey pocket (slid in during T1). Not having it in a seat bag increases aero... I have no idea how much. For economical and perfectly practical water bottles, I'd recommend a standard bottle/cage one on your downtube. Also have one between your bars (aerodrink style system, or bottle cage mounted horizontally with standard bottle). You can zip tie the latter between your aerobars pretty easily. |
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Regular ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I have a question for you guys. I am contemplating competing in Ironman Coeur d'Alene in 2012. I was curious how the hotel prices are for Ironman weekend. Do they sell out fast? Is there a minimum night stay? I have done Ironman Louisville in the past and hotel prices were very reasonable. I am also doing Ironman Lake Placid this year and hotel prices are anything but reasonable. Lake Placid hotels are expensive and require a minimum night stay. It is pricey enough where I might not do IMLP again. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() cornerofdivision - 2011-03-14 7:49 PM I have a question for you guys. I am contemplating competing in Ironman Coeur d'Alene in 2012. I was curious how the hotel prices are for Ironman weekend. Do they sell out fast? Is there a minimum night stay? I have done Ironman Louisville in the past and hotel prices were very reasonable. I am also doing Ironman Lake Placid this year and hotel prices are anything but reasonable. Lake Placid hotels are expensive and require a minimum night stay. It is pricey enough where I might not do IMLP again. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated. Having booked lodging for both, IMCdA is CHEAP compared to Lake Placid. You also have a slightly larger window to find a good place without getting a second morgage. Many LP regulars will book their house for next year the monday after the race. For CdA, just do your homework and book right away after the 2011 race and you can get something downtown for less than $150 a night. Stay a few minutes outside of town (Post Falls) and you can pay even less. If you check out the first 10 or so pages of this thread, I think there was quite a bit of conversation about where people were lodging, as well as open hotels weeks or even months later. |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() JoshKaptur - 2011-03-14 6:24 PM RunRene - 2011-03-14 5:50 PM Equipment questions: I have a Garmin 305 for running, great tool. 1. I got a new bike (Felt B16) and need to get an odometer/cadence/speedometer for it. I would like to get a wireless one. I don't want to use my Garmin on the bike, it is too clunky to wear on the bike. Any suggestions? 2. For the same bike, I also need to get a mechanism for holding my flat kit and maybe a water bottle or two. Suggestion for this? Looking for items that are economical yet effective. :-) Most economical bike solution will be to use the 305 with the quick release kit and the speed/cadence sensor... then you don't need to wear it... you just snap it on your bike. For a flat kit, I recommend a small seat bag. For race day, I had a tube tucked under my seat and taped in. I also carried a tube, 2 levers, and a multitool in my back jersey pocket (slid in during T1). Not having it in a seat bag increases aero... I have no idea how much. For economical and perfectly practical water bottles, I'd recommend a standard bottle/cage one on your downtube. Also have one between your bars (aerodrink style system, or bottle cage mounted horizontally with standard bottle). You can zip tie the latter between your aerobars pretty easily. I have a 305 and have a question in regards to having enough battery for the bike and run. I plan on using the full alotted time for the race, if I come early, great. What is the best way to make sure you have a battery the entire race? I also have a new bike computer, but haven't toyed with it much yet. I'm looking for pacing and HR data from the garmin for bike run. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() mdfahy - 2011-03-15 8:29 AM JoshKaptur - 2011-03-14 6:24 PM RunRene - 2011-03-14 5:50 PM Equipment questions: I have a Garmin 305 for running, great tool. 1. I got a new bike (Felt B16) and need to get an odometer/cadence/speedometer for it. I would like to get a wireless one. I don't want to use my Garmin on the bike, it is too clunky to wear on the bike. Any suggestions? 2. For the same bike, I also need to get a mechanism for holding my flat kit and maybe a water bottle or two. Suggestion for this? Looking for items that are economical yet effective. :-) Most economical bike solution will be to use the 305 with the quick release kit and the speed/cadence sensor... then you don't need to wear it... you just snap it on your bike. For a flat kit, I recommend a small seat bag. For race day, I had a tube tucked under my seat and taped in. I also carried a tube, 2 levers, and a multitool in my back jersey pocket (slid in during T1). Not having it in a seat bag increases aero... I have no idea how much. For economical and perfectly practical water bottles, I'd recommend a standard bottle/cage one on your downtube. Also have one between your bars (aerodrink style system, or bottle cage mounted horizontally with standard bottle). You can zip tie the latter between your aerobars pretty easily. I have a 305 and have a question in regards to having enough battery for the bike and run. I plan on using the full alotted time for the race, if I come early, great. What is the best way to make sure you have a battery the entire race? I also have a new bike computer, but haven't toyed with it much yet. I'm looking for pacing and HR data from the garmin for bike run. General consensus is that a fully charged 305 will last for 10 hours or so. An older unit may not hold a charge as well and may have a shorter batterly life. In my opinion, if you want to use a GPS watch all day you have four possible solutions: 1) buy a 310XT. $350ish dollars to solve your problem. 2) See this link and use that setup on the bike... and just the normal watch on the run (the quick release I linked previously will make transition easier. $20ish and a little McGyvering (to mount to your bars) to solve your problem. 3) By a second 305 as a gift for someone else (spouse, SO, sibling, etc) and "borrow it" on race day... they go for about $125 new... less used. Use a separate one for your bike and run. This is actually a far cheaper option than selling your 305 and buying a 310XT. 4) Use it 'til it dies. If your bike and run combine to longer than the life of the 305, then chances are you are in survival mode by the time your unit dies any way. At that point, you should be focused on doing what you can do, not expending the mental energy of obsessing about your splits/pace/HR. The most important area to hold back (pace appropriately) is the bike... and your 305 will be functional then. The next most important area to hold back (pace appropriately) is the first half of the marathon. Again, your watch should be functional then. By the end of the marathon, it's time to dig deep and not worry about the watch... you give everything you have for those last 10 miles... whether that is hammering home at 7 minute miles, or barely walking 15 minute miles. Option 5 would involve using a bike computer on the bike plus RPE (felt effort), and your 305 only on the run... but I won't discuss the merits of that since you asked about using the GPS watch/HRM all day. |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Option 5 would involve using a bike computer on the bike plus RPE (felt effort), and your 305 only on the run.. If you're going to use a bike computer, is there a way to turn the GPS off on the Garmin? GPS is what chews up the battery... but if you have the bike computer then you really only need heart rate on the watch. |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I'd only add that when it came to my first Ironman I figured I was not going to be frugal even if I had to crack into savings. There was so much time and $ invested via coaching, training,racing leading up to the big day, the flights/race ticket/hotel/etc that I wasn't going to go tight on a little expense like a garmin 310xt. Not everyone thinks that way, I understand. However, my anxiety was alleviated by being over prepared and kitted out. If you can afford it, that 310xt with 18-20 hours of life? is one less hassle that may be worth it so that your training and raceday are easier. THis can be said on quite a few things and is all a matter of resource allocation. Edited by phatknot 2011-03-15 1:23 PM |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I bought my 310xt from Active Watches (activewatches.com) and was able to use a 10% BT code. When I bought mine last summer, that was the cheapest place. |
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Regular ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I think the two best options for nursing a 305 through the full ironman are setting up an external battery pack on the bike (there is lots of info around the net on setups for this), or turn off the GPS for the bike portion and back on for the run portion, and use the GSC-10 cadence/speed sensor on to get pacing on the bike (it works really well for speed once you calibrate it, rendering the GPS unnecessary on the bike). Whether or not your battery would make it with the second option is still a little sketchy since there isn't much data on battery life with GPS off on the 305, although it probably increases it by about 50%. I'd test it out if you go this way. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I think there are a couple of 310xt's laying on the bottom of Lake Couer d' Alene from last years Ironman. It seemed that they pop off in the boxing match of a swim. I'm not sure if Garmin fixed this issue but I'd be careful out there. It would really suck to lose all data for the bike portion. As far as losing having it die for the run it's really not that much of a problem. You get to the run and do what feels right. You can have goal paces in mind but you're rarely hitting them. |
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Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() mallen4574 - 2011-03-15 1:15 PM I think there are a couple of 310xt's laying on the bottom of Lake Couer d' Alene from last years Ironman. It seemed that they pop off in the boxing match of a swim. I'm not sure if Garmin fixed this issue but I'd be careful out there. It would really suck to lose all data for the bike portion. As far as losing having it die for the run it's really not that much of a problem. You get to the run and do what feels right. You can have goal paces in mind but you're rarely hitting them. If you wear the 310xt during the swim, don't wear it on your wrist. Wear it between two caps. Last year it was cold enough to wear a neoprene cap in addition to the provided cap so it worked perfectly. I have used the data from my Garmin as much or more after the race than I did during. I would post the link to my Garmin data from IMCDA 2010 if I was so afraid of the comments I'd get. |
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