Ironman Lake Placid : Official Thread (Page 12)

I'll be up there training/helping to run a camp weekend of June 8th with start-tri.  House is right on River Rd. We'll bike the course, swim  a bunch and have various paced runs also.  PM me if u would like more info. Im looking forward to going just to ride the course

I think, and have been told, nutrition is more than just sodium intake.

One of the main reason people bloating is carbs. Not enough carbs and it is likely you're gonna be bonking. Too much are you're gonna bloat.

One way to reduce bloating is to take sodium.

Basically, you need to find your right amount of carbs, then fluids and finally you play with sodium amount.

Usually, it is advisable to start with carbs amount of 35-60 g/hour of exercise. You can test during your training and go up to 75/80g. At 90g, most of the people will have GI issue and bloating (ymmv of course).

3 gels per hour (25g per gels) is close to 75g. If you add the HEED, then, you are likely to go over your treshold. Try to reduce this first.

Then, it is a good thing to consider close to 1 liter per hour.

Finally, sodium should be between 250 mg to up to 1,000 mg per hour. It is really a personal choice and should be gradually increased through the race.

"My" nutrition plan is the following:

- swim: 1 gel 45min before the swim and 1 gel 5 min before.

- bike: 1 bottle of water per hour; 1 gel every hour; 1 power bar (solid) every hour alternate (1 gel, 30 min later 1 bar, etc.); 1 salt cap every half hour

- run: 1 gel every half hour; Heed or Perform every aid station then followed by water (in that order to clean the sugar taste); 1 salt cap every half hour; bretzel from the half to the end.

This is mine, it is working for me, it might not work for you.

To finish and complete Dream Chaser statement, the excellent way to test it is not only during BRICK training but during ALL your training. If it is more the 1 hour training session, then it is worth tweaking your nutrition. You'll find that it is gonna be costly on the nutrition side but once race day, you don't have to think to anything, just apply what you have been practicing for months

Of course, once again, your mileage bla-bla-bla...

Here are the details:

http://www.endurancenation.us/en_camps/index.php

Sounds very good for the price !

Training wise, I did my first swimming session tonight since my crash 5 weeks ago. Only 30 min but very happy been able to do some kicking and easy drills. Finally, it's coming together...

Happy

I am also starting Fink's IronFit 30 Week plan on December 26.  For the last few weeks, I've been doing the winter cycling program from Coach Jorge found here on BT.  (I'm doing the heartrate version since I don't ride with a power meter.)

Question for the veterans: I'll only be about halfway through the 16 week cycling program and up to about 3 hour long rides when the first week of IronFit rolls around.  Is it okay to keep up with the longer cycling for the first period of the IronFit program?  How would you adapt the programs?

Thanks for your thoughts,

Hey Dream Chaser

Yeap I have been bike fitted and been riding the same bike for since febuary.  Its weird I have done 2 4hrs ride and none of that issue occured.  When I think about it, I think my cycling style is with flat feet.  I got a free bike fit for Enduro, and they are excellent very knowleagble store.  They changed my seat post and move my saddle forward and push the aero bar farther (road bike).  so now its super comfortable!

Thanks guys for the advice.  Ill try that next ride.  I remember peeing 5x within 20minutes after Muskoka race and possibly dropped 10lbs of water weight lol!  I think Im dropping HEED I dont like the taste that much.  I may go more with gatorade. 

Any leads to cheap powerbar sale online?  Thanks!

A few questions for BeIronfit graduates:

Did you feel prepared on race days after completing the plan?

Did you see any improvement in speed with your run while staying in zone 2?

Did your bike speed improve?

Thanks!

Yes. Yes.  And Yes. 

My training buddy is coached by well-established coach and the funny thing is, our weekend Long Workouts were very similar last year. 

In my opinion, the Be Iron-Fit Intermediate plan is a basic meat and potatoes Ironman training plan.  It covers the fundamentals well.  No bells or whistles, nothing fancy.  Many other basic Ironman plans are three weeks of increasing volume, 1 week recovery; Be Iron-Fit is just consistently building.  It's amazing how this plan within a month just got me used to 10-hour weeks. with no residual fatigue  And you do get a recovery week after your 70.3 race in May (or for me early June).  It's a great plan for a beginner or any triathlete who want's to have a solid Ironman race.     

And two more things, if you search Be Iron-Fit plan on this site as I did, you'll find a dozen plus other BT members who have all had excellent success with this plan.  I honestly have not read a bad review about this plan.

And lastly, (for the majority of us avg ager's) Ironman running IS NOT ABOUT SPEED.  It's about consistency and "time on your feet".  It's about maintaining a steady Z2 pace after swimming 2.4 miles and biking 112 miles.  The consistent turtle is faster than the hare who blows up at mile 12 of the marathon.  Trust me.  I know  

Since I ran the Philly Marathon two weeks ago, I needed two weeks to recover and just started the Jorge Winter Cycling Plan.  I am going to see the Plan all the way through; that takes me three weeks into March.  When I'm done with Jorge's plan, then I will simply transition to the Be Iron-Fit workouts.  I would suggest seeing the Jorge Winter Cycling plan to the end while following the Be Iron-Fit Swim/Run workouts. 

If you complete Jorge's plan, you will be in EXCELLENT cycling shape to start the Spring season.  If you want to do longer endurance sessions on the weekend, have at it. 

The consistent turtle is faster than the hare who blows up at mile 12 of the marathon. 

Agreed.  1-2 mins slower per mile will finish you FAR ahead than 13 miles of walking.

Dream Chaser -- Thanks for the input.  It's funny, the BT community is very positive about the IronFit programs and overwhelmingly enthusiastic about Coach Jorge's plan.  If I'm not prepared come July, it will be my own damn fault.

What a great confidence booster!  Thanks very much for you honest input!
I was just wondering because as of right now Ive been playing around with the plan and with the base training I am running 11min/mile.  Ive read some people improved down to 9min-8min/mile.

I know what you mean by blowing up in the marathon, I did my first full last spring and I PRed in 10k and 21k lol! then prayed for the rest of the way.  I know I know I was supposed to be negative.

Its the Fink's IronFit 30 Week plan for me also. This will be my 4th IM using this plan and I always feel ready on race day. Good luck to everyone in your training and stay healthy, that's what matters most. If you miss a workout or 2 so be it, don't worry about it, just stay healthy!!! Start practicing nutrition now, it's never too early for that. Experiment some and see what works best for you, everyone is different.

Jim 

I blew my goals out of the water using Jorge as an actual coach if you ever decide to look for a plan that's more personalized.

Tdotnew2tri:this question can get folks into a huge debate because there is so many differing positions as to the merits of each. Historically tubies were considered better (lighter, better rolling resistance, better road feel, etc.) but truthfully with the right setup many of the new clincher/wheel combos perform at least as well as a good tubular setup. So to me the answer (like always) is that "it depends." What options are available to you? I have raced on tubulars for years (currently 808/1080), and do just about all my own wrenching. I am very confident in gluing and changing my tires. In fact I am pretty sure I can change my tubulars much faster than I can my clinchers. I flatted in a crash at IMLP last year and had my front tire changed in less than a minute, and that was with a seperated shoulder and one good arm. Of course that also included a razor blade and ruining a $120 tire. This also means that I have to maintain two different repair kits (one for training and one for racing).

My wife got a new set of racing wheels this year and she went with the 404/808 Firecrest clinchers, which is what I might do as well if I were to get a new set right now. supposedly just as fast (with the right tubes, tires, and air pressure) as my current setup and much more "familiar" to her as far as maintenance and repair.

All that said, If I were renting and unfamiliar with tubulars, I would go for clinchers, but be prepared with my own tires and tubes just in case I was not happy with what they provided. Also, I am not sure how excited I would be by having no knowledge of the glue job on a set of rental tubulars - I am sure they are done well, but gluing them yourself is sort of like packing your own chute. I glue mine like a pro peloton rider, not like a triathlete, but that is just me.

Clinchers.  Clinchers.  Clinchers.  Next question. 

I kid, of course.  But seriously...  no question: clinchers.  If you get a flat, you'll know how to change it.  They are just much more practical.  If you want a smoother, slightly faster ride, then spend the money and get latex tubes to put on your clinchers.  Latex lubes are faster than regular butyl tubes.

And for the record, the pro cyclists over in Europe set Time Trial records with clinchers all the time.  When all is said and done, once again, it's the Engine that counts most. 

Quick question:  What wheels are you looking at?  The reason I ask is, do yourself a favor and don't go deep in the front; deeper than a 60 that is.  The Keene descent can be gnarly and you don't want your front tire getting blown all around!! Plus, if you're not an excellent bike handler, the corrections you will constantly be making with a deep-dish front tire will negate the minimal time savings of a deep dish front. 

For the most part, you can go deep as you want on the back, or run a disc, but keep it shallow in the front.  That's a good rule of thumb that was told to me and it's worked out well.   

Which ever you can afford, provided the first Felt also has good components.  No bike is necessarily better than another bike as long as it allows you to get into a comfortable aero position.  The bike is only 15% of the drag.  You are 85%.  It's all about the Engine on the bike; not the bike.  Are they both the same size?  Which ever bike fits better, which allows you to produce the most consistent power will get you through 112 miles most efficiently. 

Everyone should be riding the trainer right now, right?!?!  Unless of course you live in a warm climate and can still train outside.