Fred D Mentor Group - Part II (Page 53)

I can understand why people would/should be hesitant right now.

I agree that the WTC will likely try to create an event that will hurt Challenge Penticton, but I'm also wondering what type of registration numbers Challenge needs to deem the race a success.  Might be pretty high if they are boasting a $60k pro prize purse.

When all the dust settles, I would be estatic (for my own selfish reasons) if Challenge Penticton turns into a well run event with 1200 participants that doesn't sell out in 2 hours. 

Personally I would not get a 1080 front. While I have never rode one I would be scared of how it handled in the wind. I have a Jet 6. I would probably go as far as 808. And a 808FC is more aero than a 1080.

If money is no object I would get a 808 Firecrest but to be honest I suspect a Flo 60, 90 would be within seconds for a hell of a lot less.

I kind of like the deep rear with wheel cover for a few reasons. One, I can remove the cover if ever I do a race that does not allow discs such as Cozumel. Aerodynamically the cover is  almost equivalent as a disc.

I would bet you that overall you would get more aero with a Flo+Disc cover+trip to wind tunnel for the same amount as 808FC+Disc

Have 2 races.

IMC in Whistler with a 14 hour cut-off and let all the hard core STers have their race without slower AGers, where they can pound their chest, grunt and stop complaining about people walking the marathon. Have many Kona slots, lots of draft marshalls and everyone has to pipi in a test tube for drug testing. (no relays)

Then have Challenge, 17 hour cut-off, family event, can cross the finish line with your kids, parents and animals. (with relays)

Everyone is happy.

The one major Zipp dealer here often has demos.  I'd definately try out the new 404 and 808 FC if possible.  The fact that the 1080 isn't made anymore after 1 year makes me think it was a bust.

Have you already run it by the missus, Fred?

Zipp's website said it was d/c'd in January of 2011.

It wasn't compatible with a few bikes, particularly the P3 which had to hurt.  1080 was also not compatible with a PT.  Then as Marc mentioned the new 808 FC tested faster, so that was the nail in the coffin.

Drafting wasn't that bad from what I saw.  What IMC needed was officials to hit people up with BLOCKING penalties.  It was so f-ing annoying trying to work past the slower riders in the first half of the race.

Richter was really bad, but even the 7 were tough to ride properly because some people think they have no obligation to EVER move to the right.

/rant off.

*of course if I got my butt in the pool 5 days a week, then I wouldn't have this problem, so it's sort of my own fault.

Going to spin the legs out...gearing up for the last road race of the season this Sunday.  112 miles around Oahu.

Umm, I'm new to all this since it's borrowed.  Will a zipp extender allow me to choose whether I remove the core or not from the bontrager tube?

Neil - zipp now makes two valve extenders: the old kind (anodized black finish) that slips over the valve and works with any tube (you don't remove the valve cores with this one) and the newer "integrated valve extension (clear aluminum finish) which requires that you remove the core - it will not fit on the valve stem unless you do. The old ones are great because they work with any tube, but can be a PITA if the valve gets screwed up, stuck open, etc. This is much less of a problem with clinchers than with tubbies. You also have to prep them with plumbers tape and screw them on very tight - they will leak if they get loose. You use a small Allen wrench to tighten them so you either need to make sure your spares already have an extension on them or carry an allen wrench to swap them off. The integrated ones on the other hand have an integrated seal so you can put them on and take them off easily (they only require finger tightening) and you have direct access to the presta valve so airing up and deflating is a snap. They only work with removable core tubes, so your spares should have them removed beforehand, and it will make it harder to bum one if you need to. I use the old ones on my tubulars and my wife uses the new ones on her firecrest clinchers. Pluses and minuses to both.

I run a tubular 808/1080 combo. I would like to have a better reason for why I chose the 1080 over a disk but honestly I did just because the 1080 is the most BA-looking wheel zipp has ever made. If I were to buy a new set today I would go with a 404/808 firecrest clincher combo. A little slicker than my current setup an much more versatile. But man, that 1080 is one sexy roller.

FWIW I like the fact that the fairing is structural on the zipp, even though I know that is completely wrong-thinking.

Hey - thanks for providing me the opportunity to bang on Daniel! I think he is a really good guy but for whatever reason it seems our only interaction on BT is when I get to make fun of his undying love and devotion for our cross-state rival. It should be embarrassing for me, but it is just what we do here - almost a genetic compulsion.

Lance was in town last night. He went for a twitter run and they were less than a km from my place.

A year ago, I would have. No interest at all.

Lance is in town, Madonna is in town. Hey...hold on...coincidence ?

I'm in Montreal for work too.  My wife was like "You HAVE to go!".  I just really didn't want to go.  I figured there would be a gazillion people there and someone was taking me out for a free dinner so no thanks.  

I got no problems with two old, single-monicker washed-up has-beens hooking up. What happens in Canada stays in Canada I always say.

Thanks Rusty - great explanation.  I'll pick up the tube today (my current latex tubes are the 36mm Michelins), and wheel and extender on the weekend so I can play around with it next week.

Here's another question for everyone.  If you run a deep front, plus a disc cover, and only carry one tube how does that work?  If your spare tube has either an uber long valve or extender already attached, then I assume it's no good for the rear wheel, and vice versa if the valve is too short for the front wheel.  Do you run a shorter valve that will be accessible for the cover, and carry an extra extender if the front goes (are you then dealing with attaching tape, etc. on the side of the road).

Just something that popped into my head.

I have an extra extender in my saddle bag. The extender + length of valve is greater than my deepest wheel (in my case my rear wheel). If I flat on the front, the stem+extender will be very long for my front wheel, but who cares.

My spare is pre-taped with plumber's tape.

In your case if the spare works with your disc cover without an extender then all you would have to do is move the extender from a flatted front to the spare, if you flat on the front, or nothing at all if you flat on the back.

I am assuming you know not use latex spares. Latex and CO2 cartridges do not play well together.

my pointless thread of the day, seems like there are soooo many, i had to get involved

Lance on a bike

have a good day all