SBR Utopia - OPEN (Page 60)

Hey Rusty...yes, I removed the spacer from under the stem, put it back on top of the headset, put the cap back on and re-tightened.

After I did all that, I still have "play" in it and can't seem to fix it, no matter how hard I tighten the cap down.

- Brian

Rusty u hit the nail on the head....I am uncomfortable on a bicycle because its not my trials motorcycle. once I clip in ....i worry. I have never ridden a bicycle in the city.......  ever.

I am not even comfortable walking in the city !

 I currently ride in Drippings Springs. Texas ( where the US Postal team used to train. ) its all i know..straight line..almost no traffic. I do not know how to fall clipped in.......twice i fell over at my car fiddling with shoes whatever. ouch....my knees get twisted. second fall was easier...tried to stay loose and go over with the bike.....still twisted my knees...guess i need to practice wrangling my tri bike! I love the bike....in a straight line.

I fell pretty comfortable standing out of the saddle because of my experience with the trials motorcycle that's ridden standing up exclusively ..they have no seat at all.

Maybe i need a foam pit? LOL

How about the bolts holding the stem from the side?  I found there was a certain order you had to do it, I think perhaps tighten the stem cap first, then the side bolts...  or the other way around.  One of those should do it.

Is it possible you lost a small spacer in the process?  I took my bike to get the brakes looked at prior to IMMT and in the process the bike tech told me I was missing a spacer and as a result the headset was loose - (he seemed to think it was dangerous, I had been riding it like that for months....).  Anyway, he just inserted a small spacer and all was good.  I have no idea how it went missing as I only ever did the swap once.  

The symptoms he has are the same I had when I removed a spacer, then tightened back in the wrong sequence.  I think a missing spacer would not require the brake squeezing to register.

Or a washer on the stem bolt.

Yeah, that's true.  Mine was just loose - no idea how I never noticed...

bdesotell - 2013-01-24 5:54 PM I'll check tonight and let you know. I thought about the order of tightening the bolts as a mistake I made, but I also left out a really small spacer when I reassembled. It can't be more than a millimeter in width; small enough that I looked at it and said "This can't possibly be useful."...I'll check back in announce the winner

Shoot, a mm is enough to give some wiggle.

In my bike maintenance class we have been taking apart and reassembling front hubs and headsets (which are very similar) and it's amazing how the smallest things effect the amount of play you have.

Arend...I was told by one of my masters coaches that swimming is a combination of form and function.  Form is self explanitory, but function meaning more about your strength, endurance, turnover, and cardio.

So when doing some sets, we would do drills where the whole purpose was to focus on form.  But we would also do sets where we would focus on function.  Meaning going hard..."somewhat" ignoring form, and just trying to increase our swimming strength and cardio. 

So when you're actually trying to swim "fast"...you need to combine both form and function and the result is something in between.  But in training, that doesn't mean you should shy away from the extremes.  Where you focus more on form, or more on function...even though you know each extreme is not the most efficient way to swim.  It should be obvious that you don't want to spend a significant time focusing on function if that means doing a lot of swimming with bad form...but some isn't so bad.

Thoughts?

bdesotell - 2013-01-24 6:54 PMI'll check tonight and let you know. I thought about the order of tightening the bolts as a mistake I made, but I also left out a really small spacer when I reassembled. It can't be more than a millimeter in width; small enough that I looked at it and said "This can't possibly be useful."...I'll check back in announce the winner

it's gonna be the spacer - some bike brands require it, but others don't. I think it has something to do with the way the frame is faced where the spacer (or stem of you are slammed down) touches the frame. I remember reading something about that on the interwebs a couple of years ago when I was having a similar problem when changing the stem on one of our bikes.

bdesotell - 2013-01-24 5:54 PM I'll check tonight and let you know. I thought about the order of tightening the bolts as a mistake I made, but I also left out a really small spacer when I reassembled. It can't be more than a millimeter in width; small enough that I looked at it and said "This can't possibly be useful."...I'll check back in announce the winner

Do that before anything else. And it is cap first, then stem bolts.

This wouldn't matter on my bike, but on others it could. Depends on specifics of the design, though most all fairly new ones should have the same basic idea. Something like a Specialized cap needs to be oriented correctly to set well, for example, but it still generally looks the same.

brigby1 - 2013-01-24 4:51 PM

bdesotell - 2013-01-24 5:54 PM I'll check tonight and let you know. I thought about the order of tightening the bolts as a mistake I made, but I also left out a really small spacer when I reassembled. It can't be more than a millimeter in width; small enough that I looked at it and said "This can't possibly be useful."...I'll check back in announce the winner

Do that before anything else. And it is cap first, then stem bolts.

This wouldn't matter on my bike, but on others it could. Depends on specifics of the design, though most all fairly new ones should have the same basic idea. Something like a Specialized cap needs to be oriented correctly to set well, for example, but it still generally looks the same.

Thanks.  That was my problem, because that is counterintuitive (to a non mechanic like me), I 'd figure you do stem bolts first.

Asalzwed - 2013-01-24 4:01 PM

bdesotell - 2013-01-24 5:54 PM I'll check tonight and let you know. I thought about the order of tightening the bolts as a mistake I made, but I also left out a really small spacer when I reassembled. It can't be more than a millimeter in width; small enough that I looked at it and said "This can't possibly be useful."...I'll check back in announce the winner

Shoot, a mm is enough to give some wiggle.

In my bike maintenance class we have been taking apart and reassembling front hubs and headsets (which are very similar) and it's amazing how the smallest things effect the amount of play you have.

I'm going to have you work on my P4 rear brake :>

spudone - 2013-01-24 6:06 PM

Asalzwed - 2013-01-24 4:01 PM

bdesotell - 2013-01-24 5:54 PM I'll check tonight and let you know. I thought about the order of tightening the bolts as a mistake I made, but I also left out a really small spacer when I reassembled. It can't be more than a millimeter in width; small enough that I looked at it and said "This can't possibly be useful."...I'll check back in announce the winner

Shoot, a mm is enough to give some wiggle.

In my bike maintenance class we have been taking apart and reassembling front hubs and headsets (which are very similar) and it's amazing how the smallest things effect the amount of play you have.

I'm going to have you work on my P4 rear brake :>

Send me your P4, I'll fix your rear brake.  But only if your bike is size tiny

ChrisM - 2013-01-24 6:56 PM

brigby1 - 2013-01-24 4:51 PM

bdesotell - 2013-01-24 5:54 PM I'll check tonight and let you know. I thought about the order of tightening the bolts as a mistake I made, but I also left out a really small spacer when I reassembled. It can't be more than a millimeter in width; small enough that I looked at it and said "This can't possibly be useful."...I'll check back in announce the winner

Do that before anything else. And it is cap first, then stem bolts.

This wouldn't matter on my bike, but on others it could. Depends on specifics of the design, though most all fairly new ones should have the same basic idea. Something like a Specialized cap needs to be oriented correctly to set well, for example, but it still generally looks the same.

Thanks.  That was my problem, because that is counterintuitive (to a non mechanic like me), I 'd figure you do stem bolts first.

Sometimes it takes me a sec to remember too. 

18F and no wind for tonights run. Amazing just how pleasant that feels now.

Oh yeah, absolutely.  I'm all for the occasional set that just makes you want puke in the gutter and the only thing you can think about is not drowning.  

"So when you're actually trying to swim "fast"...you need to combine both form and function and the result is something in between"

Yes and no?  Your best form combined with your best function should produce the highest speed - it just may not be sustainable for very long.  The trick is finding that level of effort you apply that is sustainable.  Maybe that's what you meant by what you wrote.  

It's very similar to power on the bike really.  There is a bit of a fine line of how much power you can put out - you can maintain a certain amount for a period of time but increase that by just a bit and you quickly fail.  Except in the pool when you go just over that level, your crankarms start bending, the chain starts jumping gears and the brakes rub on the rims of the wheels.  

Super glue arm pad back to bars? Check.

Replace battery in bike computer? Check.

Put this back on to fix the problem??

Check! ...but I also had to loosen the stem bolts to get it to work. Double win.

- Brian

Nice. I like running in weather like that.. makes me feel like I am in a mystery. I went out for a short 2 miler at 5 am this morning. It was very foggy. I'm in recovery week so trying to keep my overall training volume down but feel like I need to do a long run tomorrow. I am trying to inch up the mileage.

I'm so slow that my long runs are events in and of themselves. 

Nice! Would suggest calling the AM run a "shakeout". Not much difference, but that's what the fast people say.

Adrienne:  Since you are reading Daniels I had a question (since my sister stole my book and I can not reference it).  What does Daniel say the ideal recovery for 'I' pace intervals is?  I am thinking it is equal time on/off but can not remember.   I thought the 'R' pace was the unlimited time, whenever you are ready, type recovery period.

If anybody else knows and can chime in that would be great.

We are continuing to get clobbered with snow.  Already have a foot on the ground in the last 2 days and supposed to get 4-6 inches more today.  At least it is warming up into the 20s .

Not sure if I am going to risk the long drive to the pool in this weather or just jump on the trainer for a recovery type bike.

It looks like Daniels Interval work is up at VO2 level, so for that, about equal work equal rest/recover. For longer VO2 work intervals, the recover can be a little shorter if you like. After a few minutes of rest you should be ready. R-Pace looks to be harder than I-pace, like for 200-400m intervals.

We're getting snow on this side of the lake, but nowhere near that accumulation! Might end up with a couple inches. Just enough to make the roads slick for us.