SBR Utopia ---- Permanently OPEN!! (Page 42)

Today was a treadmill run (too cold for me outside - I know… wimpy) with 6x0.5 mile negative intervals on 0.25 rest and w/u-c/d for 8 miles total.  Then 3k in the pool - an endurance workout from Bernhardt and Hansen.

Anyone ever use their book, Swim Workouts for Triathletes?  I have been using it in conjunction with Friel's "Your Best Triathlon" as my overall general guide - picking one of the B&H workouts to match Friel's swim workout type (endurance, muscular endurance, force, etc.) for that day.  

I started doing it after y'all convinced me that doing short intervals was something I needed to focus on rather than longer swims (although I admit that I still plan to do some long swims once the pond is not frozen solid - some time in July, I'm guessing).

Just curious if anyone else has used it or found it beneficial.  I have really enjoyed it!  (kind of like how I use the Higdon HM plan for the actual workouts in the slots of the Friel overall plan during the last 11 weeks in advance of next week's HM).

Matt

The real reason I have signed up is that I have been coerced into provided a great opportunity to work with a group that does youth multi-sport development (7-14 year olds) but they require at a minimum a USAT Level 1 certification. Also I figure it can't hurt the work I already do with the university tri team. This clinic lined up nicely with my spring break, so here I go.... Hopefully I will be pleasantly surprised!

I enjoyed my USAT Level I Clinic, mostly because you get to make some good connections and pick the brain of some respected coaches. It's one of those things where you get out of it what you put into it, for sure... and where some presentations are perfect nap time

I say you just roll up to the clinic on your Felt IA...and boom...instant certification.

Is that a typo? Did you mean to say "instantly certifiable" instead?

Hey guys, quick techie question.....  I usually ride either a 12-25, 12-27 or 12-30 on my PT wheel.   For flat NOLA, I want an 11-23 (I am missing a sweet spot gear in the flats and suspect it's the 16). 

Would I need to have a shorter chain installed?   Since I ride flat so rarely I would not use the 11-23 very often, so hope to do as little alterations as I can.

thanks

if you can run a 30 on your current setup my experience would say probably yes, but it would depend on a couple of other things: compact or standard crank, derailuer brand and size, etc.

I run a compact and SRAM red derailuer on my road bike usually with a 11-25. When I put on a 28 it is almost too short. When I make the chain long enough for the 28 it is almost too short for the 11. Bear in mind both of these are only problems when you are completely cross-chained either way, but then again all of us do it on occasion.

if you are talking about Shimano stuff - http://sheldonbrown.com/k10.shtml

The only difference between an 11-23 and your 12-25 is the 25 is replaced by the 11 - everything in between is the same so you aren't gaining anything.  A 12-23 or 12-21 would tighten things up a bit. 

Ah, then maybe I don't need it.... 

http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm

What was your avg cadence for Miami?  Mine was right on 90 and I have a compact up front so with my avg speed of 37.3 kph, I likely spent the vast majority of the ride in 50x15.  having a standard on the front would have put me in 53x16.

85, used the 12-25 and 23 mph so if I read that right, I was at 50 x 14 or 15, right down the middle.   Maybe I need a 14.5  

I am trying the 12-23 route, see how that goes.

I'd go 12-23 and compact if there aren't any sections on the course where you can go over 35 mph.  You can get up to 34 mph with 50/12 by spinning up to 105 rpms...and I assume on a "flat" course those type of sections would be few and far between.  You would also gain the 18t which at 85 rpms gets you 18.7 mph...which could come into play when doing slight climbing or going into a strong headwind.

I never understood why some average AGers feel they need big gears (standard) because they live in flat areas.  If it's flat...there are no downhills.  

Agree 100%. My climbing gears (which I also used at IMLP and will use at IMMT) are compact and a 12-25. But I have swapped the 12 and replaced it with an 11. Like Chris, the 16 combined with my compact is a real sweet spot that I love. The only time I ever wind up in the 12 is on descents, and by then I would lots rather have the 11, so the 12 goes un-missed. I do think Chris' chain will most likely be too long (back to the original question) if he switches out to a 23 anything if it currently will work with a 30 with modification.

edited auto-correct gobbledygook.

Edited by TankBoy 2014-03-05 6:56 PM

It depends on how long the chain is. My setup has been fine switching between an 11-23 and 11-28 without really adjusting much of anything. However, I don't use the big ring with either the 28 or 25t cogs. It can just get into the 25, but I think it stretches things a bit much. It'd probably pull itself apart trying to get into the 28. I had it set up to do this in the first place, knowing I'd be doing some hilly things at time that would need the wider cassette.

In your case, the chain would most likely be too long in the 39-11 if it's long in anything, not the 23. The 23 is physically the biggest cog and takes up the most chain. I don't really use those gear combinations either, the smallest cogs on the small ring, so couldn't say if it's too long there.

yup - chain too long/too short is really only an issue when cross chained. Too long is not a awful thing: RD will make some racket and you will have a saggy chain which will be unflattering in photos. Very un-pro and easy to drop it off the front rings. Too short on the other hand is bad news: jammed gears, bent RD, broken chain. None of us crosschain until we do. And in a race you wouldn't want that to happen. In your particular case not an issue. Shortening a chain though is a really easy thing to do - takes less than a minute. If it were me I would set it up correctly rather than not running the gears I wanted because I thought it would be too much if a PITA to do so. We spend a lot of time training for these races - what is a few more minutes and greasy hands?

Yeah, duh I meant 39/11, but I think you guys figured that out  

Readjusting for 54/39, I also would be in between 54x15 and 16 at 85 RPM and 23 mph

Yeah...then even more so you want the 12-23.  That 18t will come into play and 54/12 is plenty of top end for a flat course.  It's probably the same as 50/11.

Time for me to start incorporating longer rides into the schedule as things get more specific for HIM.  2 hours today and 2.5 hours Sunday.  At this point, it looks like the snow should melt by June so we got that going for us.

Interesting point on the mental side of things Fred.  I often make deals with myself too.  Just yesterday in the pool, I had a very tough 10x200 set in the pool with a tough send-off.  I told myself after 3 just to make it to 5 and re-evaluate.  Well once I made it to 5 I was in the zone and by 6 knew I would make it through all 10.  So much of this stuff is mental.

Trying to do the same.  Made it a bit over two hours last Sunday and will shoot for 3 or so this Sunday.  Hope you hammer your rides!

Actually had a minor freak-out (to the extent I ever really freak out about something that's fun) this morning that I just won't be able to get my bike where I want it by my first long race (6/8).  I have 3 months, but the trainer sessions have not been exactly great (I'm trying, though).  I need to get outside, but I have a snow mound in the backyard that is TEN FEET tall at the moment (no kidding).  Argh!

I feel like my run and swim are *getting* there, but just don't know about the bike.  And it's all about the bike, cuz it's all about the run...

C'mon SPRING!!

Matt

you're already in.   welcome