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2010-11-04 7:24 PM
in reply to: #3195930

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 2:17 PM
gsmacleod - 2010-11-04 6:47 PM
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 3:25 PM

I've personally found that compact cranks leave me spinning out on descents and with plenty of gears on the cassette for the worst (read:best) climbs that I encounter. My typical cadence is around 90-95 and my power numbers are well within my FTP ranges.


What cassette were you running with your 50 and what are you running with your 53?

Shane


Good point. I was running an 11/23 with my 50 and a 12/27 with my 53. For flatter races, I toss the 11/23 with the 53 now. Didn't even think about that. Not an absolutely enormous difference, but still significant.


Hard to believe that you spin out on 50/11 and not on 53/12.   Being that 50/11 is a bigger gear than 53/12


2010-11-04 7:53 PM
in reply to: #3195911

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
Your assumptions are spot on.
2010-11-04 8:03 PM
in reply to: #3195270

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
Dave Luscan - 2010-11-04 1:13 PM Here is an even easier rule of thumb with no power knowledge required:

You should use all of the gears on your bike. So the biggest climb you regularly see should have you in your smallest gears. The biggest descent should find you in your biggest gears.

If most of your riding finds you towards one end of your total gearing range or the other, consider some gearing changes. 


I rarely use all my gears, the ones on the ends stay shiny and new. But then a hilly ride for me has total climbing elevation of 50 feet.
2010-11-04 10:26 PM
in reply to: #3194786

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike

You can pair a compact crank with a high geared straight stack cassette (11-23) and have more top and bottom end than a wider spaced cassette (12-26) paired to a standard crank/rings.
And IIRC, you have one or two fewer duplicate gear combos with the 11-23/compact setup. 
Put the calculator to it.

2010-11-05 12:11 AM
in reply to: #3196018

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
the bear - 2010-11-04 8:03 PM

I rarely use all my gears, the ones on the ends stay shiny and new. But then a hilly ride for me has total climbing elevation of 50 feet.


LOL - I grew up in New Orleans and go back often.  Other than the levees when I go out and run or bike my total climbing is dictated by how many canals I cross over.  Nothing like climbing 4 feet at a time. 

dalessit - 2010-11-04 1:15 PM

Another good way to think about it is how many times do you wish you had a bigger gear going down hill vs. how many times have you clicked and then looked down at your casette just to check for the 5th time to make sure there aren't any more gears left when you're going up a hill.


I laughed.  I've done that often. 
2010-11-05 12:48 AM
in reply to: #3195940

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
tri808 - 2010-11-04 7:24 PM
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 2:17 PM
gsmacleod - 2010-11-04 6:47 PM
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 3:25 PM

I've personally found that compact cranks leave me spinning out on descents and with plenty of gears on the cassette for the worst (read:best) climbs that I encounter. My typical cadence is around 90-95 and my power numbers are well within my FTP ranges.


What cassette were you running with your 50 and what are you running with your 53?

Shane


Good point. I was running an 11/23 with my 50 and a 12/27 with my 53. For flatter races, I toss the 11/23 with the 53 now. Didn't even think about that. Not an absolutely enormous difference, but still significant.


Hard to believe that you spin out on 50/11 and not on 53/12.   Being that 50/11 is a bigger gear than 53/12


I clearly got faster. :p


2010-11-05 12:55 AM
in reply to: #3196280

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 7:48 PM
tri808 - 2010-11-04 7:24 PM
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 2:17 PM
gsmacleod - 2010-11-04 6:47 PM
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 3:25 PM

I've personally found that compact cranks leave me spinning out on descents and with plenty of gears on the cassette for the worst (read:best) climbs that I encounter. My typical cadence is around 90-95 and my power numbers are well within my FTP ranges.


What cassette were you running with your 50 and what are you running with your 53?

Shane


Good point. I was running an 11/23 with my 50 and a 12/27 with my 53. For flatter races, I toss the 11/23 with the 53 now. Didn't even think about that. Not an absolutely enormous difference, but still significant.


Hard to believe that you spin out on 50/11 and not on 53/12.   Being that 50/11 is a bigger gear than 53/12


I clearly got faster. :p


um...if you were on compact 50/11 and spinning out...then went to 53/12 and are not spinning out anymore...then...sorry dude...you got slower.

I appologize...I couldn't resist.
2010-11-05 6:56 AM
in reply to: #3195940

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
tri808 - 2010-11-04 9:24 PM
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 2:17 PM

Good point. I was running an 11/23 with my 50 and a 12/27 with my 53. For flatter races, I toss the 11/23 with the 53 now. Didn't even think about that. Not an absolutely enormous difference, but still significant.


Hard to believe that you spin out on 50/11 and not on 53/12.   Being that 50/11 is a bigger gear than 53/12


Exactly - while athletes often complain about spinning out a 50 too quickly, if you have an 11 tooth cog paired with the 50 then you have a bigger gear than you would with a 53/12.  

Beyond that, as a triathlete one is likely better served to tuck and coast anytime they spin out their biggest gear.  Assuming that you can pedal at 120rpm, with most gearing combos on road and tribikes, spinning out is going to have you traveling at >40mph; continuing to try to keep power to the pedals is going to see very little gain in the bike split.

Shane
2010-11-05 8:43 AM
in reply to: #3194786

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
So if you're running a compact crank, is an 11-25 the way to go to get the best of both worlds (top and bottom end)?
2010-11-05 8:51 AM
in reply to: #3194786

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
For the majority of riders the compact is the best choice. A tri bike does not typically put you in optimal power position for climbing a hill. The ability to have lower gearing is handy there. The only place you would notice not having a 53 frontt is when you want to pedal at speeds in excess of 35mph. How often does that happen - usually you will be going downhioll and just getting into a really good aero tuck will alllow you to stay fast. You can compare the gear inches of the various front and rear gears by using the calculator at Sheldon Browns website.
2010-11-05 10:37 AM
in reply to: #3195292

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
JohnnyKay - 2010-11-04 1:18 PM
TracyV - 2010-11-04 2:14 PM
One can only go so fast down a hill on a compact.


Yes, I've only managed to go about 52mph downhill on mine.  Really sucks.


No kidding .  I always laugh when I hear people picking their gearing by 'I can spin out my XX/XX on that HUGE downhill for 0.0001 seconds.


2010-11-05 11:16 AM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
UWMadTri - 2010-11-04 1:25 PM I've personally found that compact cranks leave me spinning out on descents and with plenty of gears on the cassette for the worst (read:best) climbs that I encounter. My typical cadence is around 90-95 and my power numbers are well within my FTP ranges.

Here's a nifty calculator that lets you toy around with some gearings with the related speed output.

http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html


This calculator is awesome 
2010-11-05 11:50 AM
in reply to: #3196571

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
GoFaster - 2010-11-05 3:43 AM So if you're running a compact crank, is an 11-25 the way to go to get the best of both worlds (top and bottom end)?


I run compact 12/25 on my road bike.  I rarely find the need for an 11 tooth cog even on my compact.  But then again...I have no desire to bomb down hills at 45+ mph.  And I can't push 35+ mph on the flats for any significant amount of time. 

The areas I ride my road bike do not have big hills...and the ones that do are in residential areas with 25 mph speed limits...and cars pulling out of driveways.  So yeah...50/34 and 12/25 gives me all the gears I need with a pretty tight spacing.  I was actually debating getting a 12/23.
2010-11-05 11:50 AM
in reply to: #3196206

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
otee453 - 2010-11-04 8:26 PM

You can pair a compact crank with a high geared straight stack cassette (11-23) and have more top and bottom end than a wider spaced cassette (12-26) paired to a standard crank/rings.
And IIRC, you have one or two fewer duplicate gear combos with the 11-23/compact setup. 
Put the calculator to it.



Yep.  Using that gear calculator this is verified...even with my 650 wheels.  I don't know why I didn't look at that first as buying a new cassette is significantly cheaper than buying a new crankset/bb combo!


Thanks so much for this thread and all the contributors.  It really got me thinking and now I'm very satisfied with my decision.


I would like to mention that I can spin out on a 52-12 combo on a flat on my road bike...so tucking and coasting wouldn't do anything but bring me to an eventual stop. Wink  Again, I know my case is different since I'm on 650's, but I wanted to point out that I wasn't talking about a downhill situation.  I am making the assumption that this would be even worse on a TT bike that is going to be significantly more aero.
2010-11-05 12:03 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
GLC1968 - 2010-11-05 12:50 PM

I would like to mention that I can spin out on a 52-12 combo on a flat on my road bike...so tucking and coasting wouldn't do anything but bring me to an eventual stop.


Not to muddle with your decision anymore, but to do so means you are likely travelling over 30mph on the flats.  That's not impossible, but it is hauling and I suspect you don't do so regularly.  Regardless of what combo of crank, wheels, cassette you are riding, I suggest you get more comfortable at a wider range of cadences.  We all, of course have our "preferred" cadence, but it is good to be able to move that around for a time when conditions warrant.

And the effect likely won't be that significant in moving to a tri bike as you'd be down in the drops at those types of speeds in a road bike anyway.
2010-11-05 12:06 PM
in reply to: #3197090

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
JohnnyKay - 2010-11-05 7:03 AM
GLC1968 - 2010-11-05 12:50 PM

I would like to mention that I can spin out on a 52-12 combo on a flat on my road bike...so tucking and coasting wouldn't do anything but bring me to an eventual stop.


Not to muddle with your decision anymore, but to do so means you are likely travelling over 30mph on the flats.  That's not impossible, but it is hauling and I suspect you don't do so regularly.  Regardless of what combo of crank, wheels, cassette you are riding, I suggest you get more comfortable at a wider range of cadences.  We all, of course have our "preferred" cadence, but it is good to be able to move that around for a time when conditions warrant.

And the effect likely won't be that significant in moving to a tri bike as you'd be down in the drops at those types of speeds in a road bike anyway.


I agree.  Don't let your short term capabilities decide what gearing to get.  I've spun out 50/12 on my road bike going 38 mph on the flats with a tail wind...but I can only hold that for a few seconds...and with a strong tail wind.  That doesn't mean I should be riding a 53/11 top gear for all of my normal riding.  As a previous poster mentioned...that's what the pros ride...and I'm far from that.


2010-11-05 12:09 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
It's always good to have a few cassettes of different configurations around.  It's a lot cheaper to get the gears you need by picking up a $75 cassette vs. picking up a new double or compact. 

Changing your cassette out takes about 5 minutes and for me, most of that time is spent figuring out where I left my tools.
2010-11-05 12:11 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
GLC1968 - I would like to mention that I can spin out on a 52-12 combo on a flat on my road bike...so tucking and coasting wouldn't do anything but bring me to an eventual stop. Wink  Again, I know my case is different since I'm on 650's, but I wanted to point out that I wasn't talking about a downhill situation.  I am making the assumption that this would be even worse on a TT bike that is going to be significantly more aero.


Out of curiosity, what does spinning out mean to you and how long can you do this for?

Even with your 650's, a cadence of 100 is still over 31mph and a cadence of 120 is almost 38mph.  That is very impressive, especially if this is done at or below your LT.
2010-11-05 12:21 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
Actually, with 650's and a 90rpm (my average), that puts me at about 28.4 mph according to the calculators and yes...I can do that or faster easy enough (yes, in the drops).  I don't maintain it for more than 10-20 minutes at a time yet (except in a paceline), but I'd hate to be in a race and be limited by my bike.  You are right that if I work on my cadence, I can do better...but this is just giving me an initial guideline so that I can choose the right combination for my new bike.

A 50-11 combo gets me 5 more gear inches and a 29.8 mph speed.  The 53-12 is still only 2 gear inches better than the original combo and a 29.0 mph speed.

Frankly, I was surprized at how large a difference the 650's made compared to 700.  I should have looked at this a long time ago!
2010-11-05 12:28 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
mjengstrom - 2010-11-05 10:11 AM
GLC1968 - I would like to mention that I can spin out on a 52-12 combo on a flat on my road bike...so tucking and coasting wouldn't do anything but bring me to an eventual stop. Wink  Again, I know my case is different since I'm on 650's, but I wanted to point out that I wasn't talking about a downhill situation.  I am making the assumption that this would be even worse on a TT bike that is going to be significantly more aero.


Out of curiosity, what does spinning out mean to you and how long can you do this for?

Even with your 650's, a cadence of 100 is still over 31mph and a cadence of 120 is almost 38mph.  That is very impressive, especially if this is done at or below your LT.


When I say 'spinning out' I don't mean, omg...I can't even move my feet fast enough!  I mean that at my normal, comfortable, and efficient cadence, I'm not pushing any power anymore.  Yes, I can spin faster in those situations and yes, I can definitely work on that but my point is that if I can 'run out of gears' on a flat on my road bike when I'm not even racing...my tri bike needs to have at least the same, if not higher gearing.  Right?

It doesn't.  My tri bike has significantly LOWER gearing.  50-12 on a lighter, more aero bike is not going to cut it.
2010-11-05 12:36 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
tri808 - 2010-11-05 10:06 AM
JohnnyKay - 2010-11-05 7:03 AM
GLC1968 - 2010-11-05 12:50 PM

I would like to mention that I can spin out on a 52-12 combo on a flat on my road bike...so tucking and coasting wouldn't do anything but bring me to an eventual stop.


Not to muddle with your decision anymore, but to do so means you are likely travelling over 30mph on the flats.  That's not impossible, but it is hauling and I suspect you don't do so regularly.  Regardless of what combo of crank, wheels, cassette you are riding, I suggest you get more comfortable at a wider range of cadences.  We all, of course have our "preferred" cadence, but it is good to be able to move that around for a time when conditions warrant.

And the effect likely won't be that significant in moving to a tri bike as you'd be down in the drops at those types of speeds in a road bike anyway.


I agree.  Don't let your short term capabilities decide what gearing to get.  I've spun out 50/12 on my road bike going 38 mph on the flats with a tail wind...but I can only hold that for a few seconds...and with a strong tail wind.  That doesn't mean I should be riding a 53/11 top gear for all of my normal riding.  As a previous poster mentioned...that's what the pros ride...and I'm far from that.


The pros don't ride 650's with 165mm cranks.  I swear that I'm not doing 38mph when I run out of gears!

A 50-12 is 102 gear inches on my bike.
A 50-12 is 109 gear inches on a 700c bike.

To get me the same gearing, I need either a 53-12 (for 108) or a 50-11 (for 111).


2010-11-05 1:11 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
GLC1968 - 2010-11-05 1:21 PM Actually, with 650's and a 90rpm (my average), that puts me at about 28.4 mph according to the calculators and yes...I can do that or faster easy enough (yes, in the drops).  I don't maintain it for more than 10-20 minutes at a time yet (except in a paceline), but I'd hate to be in a race and be limited by my bike.  You are right that if I work on my cadence, I can do better...but this is just giving me an initial guideline so that I can choose the right combination for my new bike.

A 50-11 combo gets me 5 more gear inches and a 29.8 mph speed.  The 53-12 is still only 2 gear inches better than the original combo and a 29.0 mph speed.

Frankly, I was surprized at how large a difference the 650's made compared to 700.  I should have looked at this a long time ago!


Just out of curiosity, how long have you been riding and where do you race?  Those are impressive speeds.  Why do triathlon at all?
2010-11-05 1:25 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
Riding in NH (from Manchester...), a compact is a great solution to have, both on the road bike and tri bike.

I have 50/36 Q-rings on my road bikes with a 12-25 cassette and rarely do I ever need an additional gear... but I do use the 25 quite often, so I'd rather have one gear less every 10th ride, than giving up the 25, which I use every ride....

On my tri bike, I have 52/36 Q-rings, still sticking with my 12-25 cassette and that works for pretty much all situations. The big benefit I get from using compact vs. standard is that I can stay in my big ring for pretty much the entire tri. And if I ever decide to ride a super flat race, 11-23 only take a couple of minutes to change to...
2010-11-05 1:34 PM
in reply to: #3197174

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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
GLC1968 - 2010-11-05 7:21 AM Actually, with 650's and a 90rpm (my average), that puts me at about 28.4 mph according to the calculators and yes...I can do that or faster easy enough (yes, in the drops).  I don't maintain it for more than 10-20 minutes at a time yet (except in a paceline), but I'd hate to be in a race and be limited by my bike.  You are right that if I work on my cadence, I can do better...but this is just giving me an initial guideline so that I can choose the right combination for my new bike.

A 50-11 combo gets me 5 more gear inches and a 29.8 mph speed.  The 53-12 is still only 2 gear inches better than the original combo and a 29.0 mph speed.

Frankly, I was surprized at how large a difference the 650's made compared to 700.  I should have looked at this a long time ago!


I take back everything I said...carry on.
2010-11-05 1:53 PM
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Subject: RE: Running a compact crank on a tri bike
tri808 - 2010-11-05 2:34 PM
GLC1968 - 2010-11-05 7:21 AM Actually, with 650's and a 90rpm (my average), that puts me at about 28.4 mph according to the calculators and yes...I can do that or faster easy enough (yes, in the drops).  I don't maintain it for more than 10-20 minutes at a time yet (except in a paceline), but I'd hate to be in a race and be limited by my bike.  You are right that if I work on my cadence, I can do better...but this is just giving me an initial guideline so that I can choose the right combination for my new bike.

A 50-11 combo gets me 5 more gear inches and a 29.8 mph speed.  The 53-12 is still only 2 gear inches better than the original combo and a 29.0 mph speed.

Frankly, I was surprized at how large a difference the 650's made compared to 700.  I should have looked at this a long time ago!


I take back everything I said...carry on.


ONLY 10-20 minutes?  I'd be chicked in a heartbeat. 
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