SBR Utopia Season II - OPEN (Page 81)
-
No new posts
Moderators: alicefoeller | Reply |
|
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Jason N Out of all the bikes out there, the new Orbea Ordu and the BMC TM01 are the best looking bikes to me. I love the red/black paint scheme. But the 2012 Cervelo P2 red/black scheme...bleh. Probably not the fastest frames since they are UCI legal though. The Ordu has a configuration with UDI2 which is reasonably priced. Apparently it compares aerodynamically to the old P3. Greg over at ST did a good write up on it. Not sure he could make it fit at 552/444 |
|
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by axteraa Originally posted by GoFaster What about a Trek SC? Then you could go the project one route, and if I undertsand it correctly they have now expanded that program from just the 9 series down to the 7 series levels of bikes as well (maybe not the lowest versions). Pretty sure I had read that, and project one is quite cool given the amount of choices you have, of not choice paint but also how you spec the bike. 2014 new model saw some nice improvements offered in a mid-range price point. It's on "The list" I thought Neil had a SC7 with a wheel builder cover. Hey Neil, apparently it doesn't work :-) You might want to tell them otherwise. |
![]() ![]() |
![]() For the quarq users. What happens when you calibrate before each ride...normally get values between -315 and -360...then all of a sudden you get a value of -240 one day? Calibration process was the same as normal to the best of my knowledge, and the weather was a typical day. Also same time/place as my normal weekday ride. Tried the calibration again and got the same value. I did forget to calibrate at the end of the ride to see if there was a difference. Ride ended up having unusually high power. My legs did feel really good, but I was anywhere from 10-30 watts higher than normal for my 3x15' efforts. Recoveries also felt like they were 20-30 watts higher than normal. Is it possible I did something wrong, or is there something I need to fix. The only thing I did before this ride was clean my bike. Removed the chain and re-lubed, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. I did just come off a down week last week so maybe the increased power was not a fluke. 15' efforts were 240, 260, then 280. Original goal was to ride at 235-240 for all three. I'm assuming FTP is around 265 but I haven't tested in a long time. |
![]() ![]() |
Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by axteraa I thought Neil had a SC7 with a wheel builder cover. Hey Neil, apparently it doesn't work :-) You might want to tell them otherwise. Originally posted by GoFaster What about a Trek SC? Then you could go the project one route, and if I undertsand it correctly they have now expanded that program from just the 9 series down to the 7 series levels of bikes as well (maybe not the lowest versions). Pretty sure I had read that, and project one is quite cool given the amount of choices you have, of not choice paint but also how you spec the bike. 2014 new model saw some nice improvements offered in a mid-range price point. It's on "The list" Yea, I never got that. Some people said the rubber grommet on the speed/cadence sensor causes issues, but I always had plenty of clearance. I'm running a DT Swiss 465(?) with a PT Pro.
(Bike.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Bike.jpg (44KB - 9 downloads) |
![]() ![]() |
![]() My list per the fitter, and my responses BMC TM02 - It's not a TM01, which looks cool. The older TM02 were fugly, new ones *might* be better, hard to tell what paint scheme goes with what year Some of my concerns are aesthetic, but I have to be stoked about my bike. My PX is a Large and has a 510 stack so it's REALLY small on me. Don't want to repeat that mistake. Going to ask about Quintana Roo CD0.1 and Scott Plasma as well. Edited by ChrisM 2013-09-11 4:03 PM |
![]() ![]() |
Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by GoFaster Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by axteraa I thought Neil had a SC7 with a wheel builder cover. Hey Neil, apparently it doesn't work :-) You might want to tell them otherwise. Originally posted by GoFaster What about a Trek SC? Then you could go the project one route, and if I undertsand it correctly they have now expanded that program from just the 9 series down to the 7 series levels of bikes as well (maybe not the lowest versions). Pretty sure I had read that, and project one is quite cool given the amount of choices you have, of not choice paint but also how you spec the bike. 2014 new model saw some nice improvements offered in a mid-range price point. It's on "The list" Yea, I never got that. Some people said the rubber grommet on the speed/cadence sensor causes issues, but I always had plenty of clearance. I'm running a DT Swiss 465(?) with a PT Pro.
Others made it work too by taping the cover to the spokes to pull it in that much tighter. Can't remember that not working. And I can't remember if Project One has expanded to the current 7 series yet, but will for the 2014 ones. |
|
![]() ![]() |
![]() Originally posted by ligersandtions I'm off to Catalina Island for a four day backpacking trip. Hope everyone has a good rest of the week and weekend! Managed to get in a good swim and run this morning...no SBR for a few days, but lots of time on the trails. Have a good one ![]() Have fun, Love Catalina. I did a jeep tour around the interior, looks like a great place to camp |
![]() ![]() |
![]() Originally posted by axteraa I'm with Jason, if anything I would get Ultegra brakes and shifters etc at 105 would be ok with me. On both of my bikes and Tab's the cheap brakes on them seem to have given the most grief. I put Ultegra brakes on my P3 earlier this year and it's so much better to not be fighting with them when they get a tiny bit gummed up or the spring starts to go on it. On the electronic shifting, you likely won't need to shift at all in Miami outside of the start and the turn around. Well, despite the Di2 convo, the opinions of Arend and Jason may have swayed me. My LBS can get a '14 TM02 with 105 in my budget. Framewise, it's one of the ones that I really like. The paint job is OK, but it would grow on me. Plus I'd like to support my LBS rather than an etailer. |
![]() ![]() |
![]() | ![]() is it wrong that I say hi to all the bunnies I see on my run? |
![]() ![]() |
Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by bzgl40 is it wrong that I say hi to all the bunnies I see on my run? I think it's only a problem if they start talking back. |
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Jason N For the quarq users. What happens when you calibrate before each ride...normally get values between -315 and -360...then all of a sudden you get a value of -240 one day? Calibration process was the same as normal to the best of my knowledge, and the weather was a typical day. Also same time/place as my normal weekday ride. Tried the calibration again and got the same value. I did forget to calibrate at the end of the ride to see if there was a difference. Ride ended up having unusually high power. My legs did feel really good, but I was anywhere from 10-30 watts higher than normal for my 3x15' efforts. Recoveries also felt like they were 20-30 watts higher than normal. Is it possible I did something wrong, or is there something I need to fix. The only thing I did before this ride was clean my bike. Removed the chain and re-lubed, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. I did just come off a down week last week so maybe the increased power was not a fluke. 15' efforts were 240, 260, then 280. Original goal was to ride at 235-240 for all three. I'm assuming FTP is around 265 but I haven't tested in a long time. Hi Jason, This is in fact strange. It's too bad you didn't get the value at the end. If the offset should have been -330 but it was showing -240, this would be a difference of 90 which would represent a 30 watts difference. You would be generating 200watts but your Garmin would be seeing 230. When I see a drastic/crazy change, which I have seen twice, I simply retorque le bolts on the Q, ride for 30min and all comes to normal. I am curious what it is reading today. |
|
![]() ![]() |
Pro ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]() Nice to see you again! I remember there being a few races you wanted to do well at. Were you able to do them? |
![]() ![]() |
![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by Jason N Hi Jason, This is in fact strange. It's too bad you didn't get the value at the end. If the offset should have been -330 but it was showing -240, this would be a difference of 90 which would represent a 30 watts difference. You would be generating 200watts but your Garmin would be seeing 230. When I see a drastic/crazy change, which I have seen twice, I simply retorque le bolts on the Q, ride for 30min and all comes to normal. I am curious what it is reading today. For the quarq users. What happens when you calibrate before each ride...normally get values between -315 and -360...then all of a sudden you get a value of -240 one day? Calibration process was the same as normal to the best of my knowledge, and the weather was a typical day. Also same time/place as my normal weekday ride. Tried the calibration again and got the same value. I did forget to calibrate at the end of the ride to see if there was a difference. Ride ended up having unusually high power. My legs did feel really good, but I was anywhere from 10-30 watts higher than normal for my 3x15' efforts. Recoveries also felt like they were 20-30 watts higher than normal. Is it possible I did something wrong, or is there something I need to fix. The only thing I did before this ride was clean my bike. Removed the chain and re-lubed, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. I did just come off a down week last week so maybe the increased power was not a fluke. 15' efforts were 240, 260, then 280. Original goal was to ride at 235-240 for all three. I'm assuming FTP is around 265 but I haven't tested in a long time. Dang it...I thought my FTP somehow jumped 10-15 watts...thanks for being a party pooper. I'll see what the offset is today when I ride. It will be basically the same workout as well. As for torqueing the bolts...how do you know how tight you're supposed to go. And is there a certain technique/pattern you're supposed to follow when doing so? I don't have a digital torque wrench so I would be very hesitant to do this myself. |
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Jason N Dang it...I thought my FTP somehow jumped 10-15 watts...thanks for being a party pooper. I'll see what the offset is today when I ride. It will be basically the same workout as well. As for torqueing the bolts...how do you know how tight you're supposed to go. And is there a certain technique/pattern you're supposed to follow when doing so? I don't have a digital torque wrench so I would be very hesitant to do this myself. I have a small torque wrench that "clicks" when you hit a pre-set torque level. Without a torque wrench you cannot do it. These little wrenches are great for tightening "sensitive" screws such as the seatpost on a P2 The only explanation is if the Q was exposed to cold due to being worked on inside or cold water....then the offset would go in the direction it did. Another thing to try.....do the manual calibration as you have done. When you get a number, turn the pedal backwards five times while holding the bike and see if the offset changes on the screen. |
![]() ![]() |
Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]() Hi Elaine, welcome back! |
|
![]() ![]() |
Pro ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by brigby1 Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]() Nice to see you again! I remember there being a few races you wanted to do well at. Were you able to do them? Not much racing this year. I feel like I'm playing catch-up with my tri fitness. Debating if next year should be a first 140.6 or a 70.3 rematch... or the year of the Oly. So many choices! |
![]() ![]() |
![]() Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]()
Welcome back! |
![]() ![]() |
Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Originally posted by brigby1 Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]() Nice to see you again! I remember there being a few races you wanted to do well at. Were you able to do them? Not much racing this year. I feel like I'm playing catch-up with my tri fitness. Debating if next year should be a first 140.6 or a 70.3 rematch... or the year of the Oly. So many choices! If you had been back last week we would have pressured you into signing up for IMMT. |
![]() ![]() |
Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by axteraa Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Originally posted by brigby1 Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]() Nice to see you again! I remember there being a few races you wanted to do well at. Were you able to do them? Not much racing this year. I feel like I'm playing catch-up with my tri fitness. Debating if next year should be a first 140.6 or a 70.3 rematch... or the year of the Oly. So many choices! If you had been back last week we would have pressured you into signing up for IMMT. FYI: Foundation Slots are still available..... Oh, and welcome back Elaine! |
![]() ![]() |
Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by Jason N I have a small torque wrench that "clicks" when you hit a pre-set torque level. Without a torque wrench you cannot do it. These little wrenches are great for tightening "sensitive" screws such as the seatpost on a P2The only explanation is if the Q was exposed to cold due to being worked on inside or cold water....then the offset would go in the direction it did. Another thing to try.....do the manual calibration as you have done. When you get a number, turn the pedal backwards five times while holding the bike and see if the offset changes on the screen.Dang it...I thought my FTP somehow jumped 10-15 watts...thanks for being a party pooper. I'll see what the offset is today when I ride. It will be basically the same workout as well. As for torqueing the bolts...how do you know how tight you're supposed to go. And is there a certain technique/pattern you're supposed to follow when doing so? I don't have a digital torque wrench so I would be very hesitant to do this myself. yes - everyone needs a small "click" type torque wrench that measures in Nm! Jason - Marc is right - if you ride a quarq you really should get in the habit of back pedaling 5+ times occasionally while freewheeling downhill during your rides. This tells the PM to reset the zero offset (this is actually what is happening when you tell the quarq to recalibrate - it is just adjusting the zero offset - recalibrating is quite different). What happens when you backpedal with no load on the pedals is that the PM gets a cadence/rpm value but a force reading of zero. It understands this as an instruction to reset the offset value. Power taps do the same every time you freewheel, you just don't have to backpedal for obvious reasons. PMs are sensitive to temperature and moisture fluctuations, but this will be especially noticeable on a quarq if you neglect to reset the offset regularly during a ride (again, Powertap is the same - but it resets the offset automatically when you freewheel for any length of time). For the record I like my Quarq, but I am on my 4th one in the span of 3 years. The first 3 were 975s and all acted the same as yours (even after re torquing the bolts) - the zero offset got to where it would drift all over the place. The crumby thing is two o them flaked out during IM races. The most recent one was replaced with a Rike. - their CS is a awesome! |
|
![]() ![]() |
Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ratherbeswimming Did a little reading/catching up. I've missed this little group ![]() Welcome back Elaine. |
![]() ![]() |
![]() Originally posted by axteraa Originally posted by bzgl40 is it wrong that I say hi to all the bunnies I see on my run? I think it's only a problem if they start talking back. Unfortunately, on my run this morning I came across a cat that seemed to have had an unfortunate run in with the same coyote that we think got ours (and I live in an urban area, very strange), laying out on what I believe is the owner's yard. Seeing what I saw, I am now glad that we have not found our little guy. I feel sorry for the owners having to come out their front door and seeing this first off. Distressing. |
![]() ![]() |
![]() Marc/Rusty - thanks for the feedback. I really do need to perform the 5x backward pedaling more often. I have a bigger torque wrench that I bought for tightening down the quarq when swapping bikes but have yet to get a smaller one for the 4-8 nm range. Something on my list though. I know that Quarq recommends sending the crank in if you want to replace the chainrings but is this necessary? I suppose maybe if you're going to a different size or brand chanrings, but if you are using the exact same model is it possible to just replace and tighten down to the specified torque? Assuming I build a little more bike fitness over the next few years, I do think I'll eventually move to 52/36. Probably around the time that the current rings start to wear to the point of replacement. |
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Jason N Marc/Rusty - thanks for the feedback. I really do need to perform the 5x backward pedaling more often. I have a bigger torque wrench that I bought for tightening down the quarq when swapping bikes but have yet to get a smaller one for the 4-8 nm range. Something on my list though. I know that Quarq recommends sending the crank in if you want to replace the chainrings but is this necessary? I suppose maybe if you're going to a different size or brand chanrings, but if you are using the exact same model is it possible to just replace and tighten down to the specified torque? Assuming I build a little more bike fitness over the next few years, I do think I'll eventually move to 52/36. Probably around the time that the current rings start to wear to the point of replacement. With the wahoo dongle ( about $50) and a iPhone you can recalibrate it yourself. But the dongle is also cool to have for other reasons. Great diagnostic tool Edited by marcag 2013-09-12 5:34 PM |
|
![]() |
| ||||
|
| |||
| ||||
|
|