SBR Utopia Season II - OPEN (Page 82)
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by Jason N With the wahoo dongle ( about $50) and a iPhone you can recalibrate it yourself. But the dongle is also cool to have for other reasons. Great diagnostic toolMarc/Rusty - thanks for the feedback. I really do need to perform the 5x backward pedaling more often. I have a bigger torque wrench that I bought for tightening down the quarq when swapping bikes but have yet to get a smaller one for the 4-8 nm range. Something on my list though. I know that Quarq recommends sending the crank in if you want to replace the chainrings but is this necessary? I suppose maybe if you're going to a different size or brand chanrings, but if you are using the exact same model is it possible to just replace and tighten down to the specified torque? Assuming I build a little more bike fitness over the next few years, I do think I'll eventually move to 52/36. Probably around the time that the current rings start to wear to the point of replacement. And a laboratory quality weight - quarq reccomends 50lbs, but really I think you can use anything so long as you accurately know the weight. We got one when we were messing around with my wife's chainrings. From what I understand with the Riken and Elsa you no longer have to re-calibrate the quarq when you swap chainrings though. on a completely different note I highly reccomend getting the wahoo dongle if you have an iphone/ipad and a garmin watch that uses ant to wirelessly transfer your workouts to your computer. Witht the wahoo dongle and their free app you can grab your data of your watch and then upload it to training peaks, Strava, garmin connect, Nike, etc, etc - you can even email the files to yourself or upload them to Dropbox - all without a computer. I am on the road a lot without a computer and I find this to be awesome. I will often even carry my 310 with me in my jersey pocket to record my rides (garmin 800 won't upload data via ant) so that I can use my phone for upload instead of computer.... I upload everything to training peaks and then import from there to BT. |
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Veteran![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by Jason N With the wahoo dongle ( about $50) and a iPhone you can recalibrate it yourself. But the dongle is also cool to have for other reasons. Great diagnostic tool Marc/Rusty - thanks for the feedback. I really do need to perform the 5x backward pedaling more often. I have a bigger torque wrench that I bought for tightening down the quarq when swapping bikes but have yet to get a smaller one for the 4-8 nm range. Something on my list though. I know that Quarq recommends sending the crank in if you want to replace the chainrings but is this necessary? I suppose maybe if you're going to a different size or brand chanrings, but if you are using the exact same model is it possible to just replace and tighten down to the specified torque? Assuming I build a little more bike fitness over the next few years, I do think I'll eventually move to 52/36. Probably around the time that the current rings start to wear to the point of replacement. You said dongle. (couldn't resist) Word from some insiders is that the first many Quarg batches had very variable quality. Some (I was lucky) were very consistently good. Other batches were nightmarish. They apparently now have their stuff together and the new product is apparently very reliable (my Riken has been very solid). Matt |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Fred D Originally posted by TankBoy For the record I like my Quarq, but I am on my 4th one in the span of 3 years. The first 3 were 975s and all acted the same as yours (even after re torquing the bolts) - the zero offset got to where it would drift all over the place. The crumby thing is two o them flaked out during IM races. The most recent one was replaced with a Rike. - their CS is a awesome! Yikes. Hopefully they are working out their issues, but my experience with Quarq was similar.... in 5 races it worked well 3x and very poorly twice. Yeah, I know a bunch of folks that ride quarq and only one other friend has had luck similar to mine. My wife's has been rock solid for 3 years with no issues. Where quarq really shines is in their customer service: you have an issue, you call them, get a real person on the phone, (usually Rob Bee) they will send you a ups next day label without giving you any run around, you ship it to them, they test it, and send you a new one. Whole process takes 4 business days or so. For the record I think a lot of their issues were with the 975, which is now discontinued. I think their aggressive customer service kept most of us from complaining (and hopefully this does not come across as a complaint either). My most recent return was technically a year out of warranty from my original purchase date, but Rob never brought that up - they just replaced it with a Riken. Chris, not sure which version you have, but if it is a 975 I might give them a call and tell them it is acting up. They may replace it? |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by mcmanusclan5 Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by Jason N With the wahoo dongle ( about $50) and a iPhone you can recalibrate it yourself. But the dongle is also cool to have for other reasons. Great diagnostic tool Marc/Rusty - thanks for the feedback. I really do need to perform the 5x backward pedaling more often. I have a bigger torque wrench that I bought for tightening down the quarq when swapping bikes but have yet to get a smaller one for the 4-8 nm range. Something on my list though. I know that Quarq recommends sending the crank in if you want to replace the chainrings but is this necessary? I suppose maybe if you're going to a different size or brand chanrings, but if you are using the exact same model is it possible to just replace and tighten down to the specified torque? Assuming I build a little more bike fitness over the next few years, I do think I'll eventually move to 52/36. Probably around the time that the current rings start to wear to the point of replacement. You said dongle. (couldn't resist) Word from some insiders is that the first many Quarg batches had very variable quality. Some (I was lucky) were very consistently good. Other batches were nightmarish. They apparently now have their stuff together and the new product is apparently very reliable (my Riken has been very solid). Matt yeah, I have heard that as well - I think they are happy to get as many 975s off the street as possible. Good customer service is good marketing is good customer service.... |
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![]() Originally posted by TankBoy Originally posted by Fred D Originally posted by TankBoy For the record I like my Quarq, but I am on my 4th one in the span of 3 years. The first 3 were 975s and all acted the same as yours (even after re torquing the bolts) - the zero offset got to where it would drift all over the place. The crumby thing is two o them flaked out during IM races. The most recent one was replaced with a Rike. - their CS is a awesome! Yikes. Hopefully they are working out their issues, but my experience with Quarq was similar.... in 5 races it worked well 3x and very poorly twice. Yeah, I know a bunch of folks that ride quarq and only one other friend has had luck similar to mine. My wife's has been rock solid for 3 years with no issues. Where quarq really shines is in their customer service: you have an issue, you call them, get a real person on the phone, (usually Rob Bee) they will send you a ups next day label without giving you any run around, you ship it to them, they test it, and send you a new one. Whole process takes 4 business days or so. For the record I think a lot of their issues were with the 975, which is now discontinued. I think their aggressive customer service kept most of us from complaining (and hopefully this does not come across as a complaint either). My most recent return was technically a year out of warranty from my original purchase date, but Rob never brought that up - they just replaced it with a Riken. Chris, not sure which version you have, but if it is a 975 I might give them a call and tell them it is acting up. They may replace it? Me Chris? PT. Does not seem to be acting up per Marc G |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() oops - sorry Chris - meant Jason - I was posting in a hurry while the flight attendant was fussing at me to turn off my iPad - had a brain fart - I think I was still thinking about your IM analysis while I was responding to Jason's quarq issue.... |
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![]() Offset was at -298 to start and -29x to finish for yesterdays ride. Still a little lower than normal but a lot closer than -240. I did make sure to do the back pedal about 4x during the ride. Power may have been a little high but not nearly as high as tuesday. Legs were notas fresh either but managed 245, 245, 250 for my 3x15' on a slightly hogher hr. Even if thos continues I'm not about to send the quarq back before kona as I don't have another gxp crank available so is there a mathematucal formula I can use to approximate how much higher or lower ny quarq will read based on the offset value? If the norm is -330 and its reading -240 is that 30 watts higher? So -298 would be like 10 watts higher? Not really going to pace kona just by power anyway. But if anything I'm glad its reading a little on the high side rather than too low. |
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![]() Got it. so I've decided on the BMC TM02. Going 105 build and will swap over my front and rear DA derailleurs and compact crank, then sell the PX with the 105 with a little riv thrown in. It will be a great intro bike for someone. arend, you mentioned swapping the brakes and shifters. Do you mean the bar end shifters? I thought Shimano bar end shifters were DA? I can also swap those from my bike. Re the brakes the rear brake is I believe proprietary as its tucked under. Front brakes, what do people know about the more aero brakes I've been reading about (magura). Any thoughts on those or something similar? |
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Elite![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ChrisM Got it. so I've decided on the BMC TM02. Going 105 build and will swap over my front and rear DA derailleurs and compact crank, then sell the PX with the 105 with a little riv thrown in. It will be a great intro bike for someone. arend, you mentioned swapping the brakes and shifters. Do you mean the bar end shifters? I thought Shimano bar end shifters were DA? I can also swap those from my bike. Re the brakes the rear brake is I believe proprietary as its tucked under. Front brakes, what do people know about the more aero brakes I've been reading about (magura). Any thoughts on those or something similar? I didn't change the shifters, just the brakes. My P3 had all DA drivetrain components but the brakes were some crappy re-branded Cervelo ones. |
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![]() I'd simply go for a front brake with reliable stopping power and feel. Hydraulic brakes or really aero brakes are going to cost you an arm and a leg and considering you're not in the market for a super bike I'm going to guess that's a little out of your price range. Or maybe you can get lucky on the ST classifieds. |
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Extreme Veteran![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Jason N Offset was at -298 to start and -29x to finish for yesterdays ride. Still a little lower than normal but a lot closer than -240. I did make sure to do the back pedal about 4x during the ride. Power may have been a little high but not nearly as high as tuesday. Legs were notas fresh either but managed 245, 245, 250 for my 3x15' on a slightly hogher hr. Even if thos continues I'm not about to send the quarq back before kona as I don't have another gxp crank available so is there a mathematucal formula I can use to approximate how much higher or lower ny quarq will read based on the offset value? If the norm is -330 and its reading -240 is that 30 watts higher? So -298 would be like 10 watts higher? Not really going to pace kona just by power anyway. But if anything I'm glad its reading a little on the high side rather than too low. Your numbers for the ride are probably fine. When you starting offset and ending offset are close, combined with having back pedalled I would trust your wattage. When I torque my bolts, sometimes the number drops and slowly drifts back to where it was after a few rides. As long as start and end are close, you are fine. If you back pedal you are double fine. What would be bad is if you started at -240, ended at -330 and had never back pedalled. It means you would have dritted 90 units or 30 watts. I suspect you will slowly drift back to -330. Mine is at around -490 when cool out, -530 when warm out. |
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![]() Originally posted by Jason N I'd simply go for a front brake with reliable stopping power and feel. Hydraulic brakes or really aero brakes are going to cost you an arm and a leg and considering you're not in the market for a super bike I'm going to guess that's a little out of your price range. Or maybe you can get lucky on the ST classifieds. |
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![]() Originally posted by Jason N I'd simply go for a front brake with reliable stopping power and feel. Hydraulic brakes or really aero brakes are going to cost you an arm and a leg and considering you're not in the market for a super bike I'm going to guess that's a little out of your price range. Or maybe you can get lucky on the ST classifieds. Thanks Jason. Tririgs are about $180, so while not cheap, not something I couldn't pull off. If it was worth it. The stock front brake is a "non series" 105 "ish" level. ETA - Already got a lead on one from ST. Is $100 reasonable for a front? one season of use. Edited by ChrisM 2013-09-13 1:37 PM |
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Extreme Veteran![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ChrisM Originally posted by Jason N I'd simply go for a front brake with reliable stopping power and feel. Hydraulic brakes or really aero brakes are going to cost you an arm and a leg and considering you're not in the market for a super bike I'm going to guess that's a little out of your price range. Or maybe you can get lucky on the ST classifieds. Thanks Jason. Tririgs are about $180, so while not cheap, not something I couldn't pull off. If it was worth it. The stock front brake is a "non series" 105 "ish" level. ETA - Already got a lead on one from ST. Is $100 reasonable for a front? one season of use. disclaimer : I know nothing about these....but...don't you have to also ad a hanger to your headset to create the equivalent of a center pull brake ? |
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![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by Jason N Offset was at -298 to start and -29x to finish for yesterdays ride. Still a little lower than normal but a lot closer than -240. I did make sure to do the back pedal about 4x during the ride. Power may have been a little high but not nearly as high as tuesday. Legs were notas fresh either but managed 245, 245, 250 for my 3x15' on a slightly hogher hr. Even if thos continues I'm not about to send the quarq back before kona as I don't have another gxp crank available so is there a mathematucal formula I can use to approximate how much higher or lower ny quarq will read based on the offset value? If the norm is -330 and its reading -240 is that 30 watts higher? So -298 would be like 10 watts higher? Not really going to pace kona just by power anyway. But if anything I'm glad its reading a little on the high side rather than too low. Your numbers for the ride are probably fine. When you starting offset and ending offset are close, combined with having back pedalled I would trust your wattage. When I torque my bolts, sometimes the number drops and slowly drifts back to where it was after a few rides. As long as start and end are close, you are fine. If you back pedal you are double fine. What would be bad is if you started at -240, ended at -330 and had never back pedalled. It means you would have dritted 90 units or 30 watts. I suspect you will slowly drift back to -330. Mine is at around -490 when cool out, -530 when warm out. Thanks for the info. And I'll make a mental note not to post from my phone 10 minutes after I wake up. Typos galore...good grief!!! |
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![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by ChrisM disclaimer : I know nothing about these....but...don't you have to also ad a hanger to your headset to create the equivalent of a center pull brake ? Originally posted by Jason N I'd simply go for a front brake with reliable stopping power and feel. Hydraulic brakes or really aero brakes are going to cost you an arm and a leg and considering you're not in the market for a super bike I'm going to guess that's a little out of your price range. Or maybe you can get lucky on the ST classifieds. Thanks Jason. Tririgs are about $180, so while not cheap, not something I couldn't pull off. If it was worth it. The stock front brake is a "non series" 105 "ish" level. ETA - Already got a lead on one from ST. Is $100 reasonable for a front? one season of use. |
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![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by ChrisM disclaimer : I know nothing about these....but...don't you have to also ad a hanger to your headset to create the equivalent of a center pull brake ? Originally posted by Jason N I'd simply go for a front brake with reliable stopping power and feel. Hydraulic brakes or really aero brakes are going to cost you an arm and a leg and considering you're not in the market for a super bike I'm going to guess that's a little out of your price range. Or maybe you can get lucky on the ST classifieds. Thanks Jason. Tririgs are about $180, so while not cheap, not something I couldn't pull off. If it was worth it. The stock front brake is a "non series" 105 "ish" level. ETA - Already got a lead on one from ST. Is $100 reasonable for a front? one season of use. Dunno, good question to ask LBS. But seems as if Rival brake would be fine Edited by ChrisM 2013-09-13 2:14 PM |
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Master![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ChrisM Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by ChrisM disclaimer : I know nothing about these....but...don't you have to also ad a hanger to your headset to create the equivalent of a center pull brake ? Originally posted by Jason N I'd simply go for a front brake with reliable stopping power and feel. Hydraulic brakes or really aero brakes are going to cost you an arm and a leg and considering you're not in the market for a super bike I'm going to guess that's a little out of your price range. Or maybe you can get lucky on the ST classifieds. Thanks Jason. Tririgs are about $180, so while not cheap, not something I couldn't pull off. If it was worth it. The stock front brake is a "non series" 105 "ish" level. ETA - Already got a lead on one from ST. Is $100 reasonable for a front? one season of use. Dunno, good question to ask LBS. But seems as if Rival brake would be fine Not that I know of. There is a hanger that works right on the brake so that the cable comes straight in. I have one, but it's not in use right now. Doesn't fit my current bike and haven't quite been able to swing for a new one I'd been looking at. TriRig has had the occasional sale on them, knocking a few bucks off. Like if one of the pros with one wins a race. |
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Elite![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Chris's talk of a new bike had me wandering over to the Trek site to look at all the cool options under the Project One banner. Now I wish I hadn't done that....but still love my bike. And if you ask my wife, I better still love it a decade from now! |
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![]() Chris, the good news is the front brake is something you can easily replace whenever you want. Use what the TM02 comes with and if you want to upgrade later, go for it. |
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![]() Originally posted by Jason N Chris, the good news is the front brake is something you can easily replace whenever you want. Use what the TM02 comes with and if you want to upgrade later, go for it. Excellent point. Thanks all for the help. Deed is done, bike ordered. Sometime next week. Edited by ChrisM 2013-09-13 4:24 PM |
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![]() | ![]() Originally posted by GoFaster Chris's talk of a new bike had me wandering over to the Trek site to look at all the cool options under the Project One banner. Now I wish I hadn't done that....but still love my bike. And if you ask my wife, I better still love it a decade from now! Yeah, I wandered over to Project One a while ago and wish I hadn't |
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Extreme Veteran![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Very cool. I forwarded it to a colleague who has a good shot to win his AG Edited by marcag 2013-09-13 5:54 PM |
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