Power Options : Garmin Vector v. Power Tap
-
No new posts
Moderators: k9car363, alicefoeller | Reply |
![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Looking to buy some Power and would appreciate BT'ers input on the following options. 1. Garmin Vector ($1500). Pricy but versatile. 2. Power Tap built into my Zip808 ($700). This option would mean I train full time using my 808s. 3. Power Tap built into training wheels ($700). If I break my wheel I can transfer Power Tap to a new wheel set, but no power come race day as I would race with my 808s. 4. Power Tap x2 ($1400). Buy a Power Tap for my training and race wheels. 5. Power Tap + better training wheels (~$1200). With this option I would race up to OD on my new (better) training wheels. I am leaning towards option 2. Any down side? Thanks. |
|
![]() ![]() |
![]() Yeah, what are you going to do when you start training with a trainer or rollers? Buy another powertap? (edit) As I posted in the other powermeter thread, I like the crank based powermeters very much. Edited by DanielG 2014-02-10 9:56 AM |
![]() ![]() |
Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Ha guess you're snowed in also, look forward to the information we both receive. I haven't really looked into hub based pm's, race wheels, trainer wheels, roadie wheels, plus I seem to be favoring crank based. I like the Garmin Vector for its ease of swapping between bikes, but don't like the idea of pedal damage at that cost, plus I think I would wait until v2 and all the kinks are ironed out. Good Luck in your research. Boom |
![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() I'm currently evaluating some options for a power meter but I also would like race wheels so it changes it a bit, as well as keeping to a tight budget. Here are my options: 1. Powertap with Zipp rear wheel from Wheelbuilder ($1,600) Pro: great powermeter and wheel Con: still need to buy expensive front wheel and would have to train with race wheel (not going to buy multiple PMs) 2. Stages with Flo wheels front and rear ($1,700) Pro: can train with power without swapping out wheel sets and will get quality race wheels front and back Con: measures left leg power only and doubles it. Back order on Flo wheels. 3. Garmin Vector ($1,700) Pro: can train with power without swapping out wheel sets and measures right and left power although it may not have any training application Con: no race wheels with it I'm trying to stay under $2,000 for a power meter and race wheels so Stages seems to be my best bet. Although I am a bit uncomfortable with the left only power it really doesn't matter. If my FTP on that power meter is 2,000 or 150 or 276 it doesn't matter as long as I train and race to the power from that meter. I can't train on a Stages meter and then go throw on Vector or Power Tap and keep the values the same without a retest. For those with other questions I suggest reading DC Rainmaker's Power Meter Buyer's Guide. http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/09/power-buyers-edition.html |
![]() ![]() |
Not a Coach ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Have you ruled out #6? 6. PowerTap built into training wheel. Buy cover for racing. Sell rear 808. Net cost maybe $200-400.
Otherwise, option 2 is fine. You just have the higher risk of riding on the expensive wheels more frequently. And still might want to buy a cover for racing. |
![]() ![]() |
New user ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() at this point, we dont have any kink with the software and the pedals. The vector have work amazingly so far in north america. In canada, out of 600 pair on the market early this year, we havent had any pedal damage. Only a few installation mistake and pod broken but that is a easy part to replace at low cost. |
|
![]() ![]() |
Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by JohnnyKay Have you ruled out #6? 6. PowerTap built into training wheel. Buy cover for racing. Sell rear 808. Net cost maybe $200-400.
Otherwise, option 2 is fine. You just have the higher risk of riding on the expensive wheels more frequently. And still might want to buy a cover for racing. #6 gets my vote and is what I do. |
![]() ![]() |
Pro ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by axteraa Originally posted by JohnnyKay Have you ruled out #6? 6. PowerTap built into training wheel. Buy cover for racing. Sell rear 808. Net cost maybe $200-400.
Otherwise, option 2 is fine. You just have the higher risk of riding on the expensive wheels more frequently. And still might want to buy a cover for racing. #6 gets my vote and is what I do. X2 - this is the setup I just introduced my son to. I'm trying to keep it simple/cheap for him as he learns about training with HR and power. (because he can break ANYTHING) |
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() X3, it's what I did too. But a training wheel doesn't necessarily mean bad. A Mavic Open Pro is a fine wheel, and the mold used to make my Planet X wheel is the same as the one used to make a wheel that rhymes with hosmick harbone, and also ain't too shabby. I'm from a different plant, I believe that when you get nice things, you should use them and enjoy their quality, so the concept of buying Zipps and only using them a few times a year makes zero sense to me. If you're worried about them breaking, well, then they aren't worth the money, are they? And if you're worried about breaking them? Er, if you break a wheel, chances are you broke yourself a bit, too, so the wheel is the least of your problems. |
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Fisherman76 - I like your logic. Option #2 looks like the best option for me since I already own the Zipp 404/808 combo. I do enjoy riding them. BT'ers - thanks for the disc cover suggestion. Had no thought of that option. Ummmmm. |
![]() ![]() |
![]() Originally posted by fisherman76 X3, it's what I did too. But a training wheel doesn't necessarily mean bad. A Mavic Open Pro is a fine wheel, and the mold used to make my Planet X wheel is the same as the one used to make a wheel that rhymes with hosmick harbone, and also ain't too shabby. I'm from a different plant, I believe that when you get nice things, you should use them and enjoy their quality, so the concept of buying Zipps and only using them a few times a year makes zero sense to me. If you're worried about them breaking, well, then they aren't worth the money, are they? And if you're worried about breaking them? Er, if you break a wheel, chances are you broke yourself a bit, too, so the wheel is the least of your problems. I enjoy racing on race wheels. I don't enjoy training on them. Makes changing a flat tire that much more of a PITA because I have to worry about valve extenders. I also put good race tires and latex tubes on my race wheels and just leave them like that. Usually, with only race miles, the tires last 2 full seasons. It becomes a HUGE PITA to constantly swap back from training and race tires and swapping out latex tubes every time I want to race.
|
|
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() | ![]() Once you cover that 808, you will trade in that nice whom whom whoosh sound for a bang clang wrattle sound. But you have power!! |
![]() ![]() |
Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Jason N Originally posted by fisherman76 X3, it's what I did too. But a training wheel doesn't necessarily mean bad. A Mavic Open Pro is a fine wheel, and the mold used to make my Planet X wheel is the same as the one used to make a wheel that rhymes with hosmick harbone, and also ain't too shabby. I'm from a different plant, I believe that when you get nice things, you should use them and enjoy their quality, so the concept of buying Zipps and only using them a few times a year makes zero sense to me. If you're worried about them breaking, well, then they aren't worth the money, are they? And if you're worried about breaking them? Er, if you break a wheel, chances are you broke yourself a bit, too, so the wheel is the least of your problems. I enjoy racing on race wheels. I don't enjoy training on them. Makes changing a flat tire that much more of a PITA because I have to worry about valve extenders. I also put good race tires and latex tubes on my race wheels and just leave them like that. Usually, with only race miles, the tires last 2 full seasons. It becomes a HUGE PITA to constantly swap back from training and race tires and swapping out latex tubes every time I want to race.
But you get good at it in case you have to do it in a race. I like training on training gear and racing on racing gear because I go faster on the same watts in a race that way. It feels good to be targeting a certain wattage and going quite a bit faster in a race than you would on a training setup. |
![]() ![]() |
Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by JohnnyKay Have you ruled out #6? 6. PowerTap built into training wheel. Buy cover for racing. Sell rear 808. Net cost maybe $200-400.
Otherwise, option 2 is fine. You just have the higher risk of riding on the expensive wheels more frequently. And still might want to buy a cover for racing. ^^^^This |
![]() ![]() |
![]() Originally posted by axteraa Originally posted by Jason N Originally posted by fisherman76 X3, it's what I did too. But a training wheel doesn't necessarily mean bad. A Mavic Open Pro is a fine wheel, and the mold used to make my Planet X wheel is the same as the one used to make a wheel that rhymes with hosmick harbone, and also ain't too shabby. I'm from a different plant, I believe that when you get nice things, you should use them and enjoy their quality, so the concept of buying Zipps and only using them a few times a year makes zero sense to me. If you're worried about them breaking, well, then they aren't worth the money, are they? And if you're worried about breaking them? Er, if you break a wheel, chances are you broke yourself a bit, too, so the wheel is the least of your problems. I enjoy racing on race wheels. I don't enjoy training on them. Makes changing a flat tire that much more of a PITA because I have to worry about valve extenders. I also put good race tires and latex tubes on my race wheels and just leave them like that. Usually, with only race miles, the tires last 2 full seasons. It becomes a HUGE PITA to constantly swap back from training and race tires and swapping out latex tubes every time I want to race.
But you get good at it in case you have to do it in a race. I like training on training gear and racing on racing gear because I go faster on the same watts in a race that way. It feels good to be targeting a certain wattage and going quite a bit faster in a race than you would on a training setup. I've flatted enough times over this winter to know how to change a tire just fine. How many times did you flat on your trainer. LOL. |
![]() ![]() |
Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by swiss tri Looking to buy some Power and would appreciate BT'ers input on the following options. 1. Garmin Vector ($1500). Pricy but versatile. 2. Power Tap built into my Zip808 ($700). This option would mean I train full time using my 808s. 3. Power Tap built into training wheels ($700). If I break my wheel I can transfer Power Tap to a new wheel set, but no power come race day as I would race with my 808s. 4. Power Tap x2 ($1400). Buy a Power Tap for my training and race wheels. 5. Power Tap + better training wheels (~$1200). With this option I would race up to OD on my new (better) training wheels. I am leaning towards option 2. Any down side? Thanks. Why not a crank based PM like Quarq or P2Max ? |
|
![]() ![]() |
Not a Coach ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by fisherman76 If you're worried about them breaking, well, then they aren't worth the money, are they? And if you're worried about breaking them? Er, if you break a wheel, chances are you broke yourself a bit, too, so the wheel is the least of your problems. Understand if you want to go ahead and train on the nice things you buy (and 'value' or 'worth' is quite relative), but the above does not have to be true at all. In particular, it is quite possible to severely damage a wheel without damaging oneself. I did it with my PT wheel (laced into a traing wheel and combined with a cover) during a race. Simply got stuck on a bad patch of road and hit a hole hard enough to cause a flat. That allowed me to also ruin the rim and a few spokes. Was able to have hub laced back into new rim at minimal cost. Had a friend in same race who hit similar patch (or maybe even the same one) with a Zipp. Cracked the wheel. His replacement cost quite a bit more than mine, but the damaged wheels were our only problem. I'm not overly worried about breaking my 808 (front wheel), but I know it could happen. The value to me in that wheel is go faster in races, so I don't see the need to ride it much in training in order to enjoy its quality and justify its cost to me. I still find it to be worth its price to me. |
![]() | |||
![]() | |||
![]() | power tap wheel options Pages: 1 2 | ||
![]() | |||
![]() |
| ||||
|
| |||
|
| |||
|
|