Tell me how you train for hills when...

Originally posted by lisac957

I have to drive to the hills. A 45-min drive gets me some decent rollers, while a 2.5-hour drive gets me to some larger hills. I can't do it every weekend but try to do it at least 2-3x per season. Local tri/bike clubs and BT are great resources for "hidden" routes with hills.

Not sure how far you'd have to drive but might be worth checking into.

Originally posted by Leegoocrap

it's not about training ON hills. There are guys from Florida who come ride with us (in Knoxville, which is NOT flat at any point) and they do perfectly fine going up. It's descending they have trouble with.

Climbing is all about power/weight ratio, finding your rhythm and not killing yourself the first time it turns steep.

Ride hard, ride more, lose weight. You'll go up a lot faster.

Originally posted by dmbfan4life20

I live in an area where I can go out and ride hills anytime but I usually do not. I like riding my trainer because it fits into my schedule better and I feel I get a better workout in then being out on the road and constantly starting and stopping. I have been increasing my bike training alot over the past 3 months and this weekend I went out for a 30 mile ride and tackled a pretty long 8% grade half way into the ride and I felt fine doing it. Just make sure you keep the interval work up and increase your power on those sets.

Originally posted by colinphillips



Great progress!

Originally posted by fisherman76

Hills have two components, approached differently.
*On the way up*
1) Course homework: You should know where the hills are, how long they are, a good idea of the grade, and if all possible, scouted on the bike, at least the car. If you can't scout, go with strava reports for a better idea of what to expect. Psychologically, there should be NO surprises before you arrive at the climb on you bike come race day.
2) Momentum - simply put, have some. If you're coming off a flat, that does not mean push harder before you get there, it means maintain cadence and speed until you do.
3) Gearing - drop into your small ring up front and maintain your cadence until you begin to drop speed. Shift through to maintain your cadence constant.
4) Power - part 1 of where training makes all the difference going up. Look, no BS, this is gonna hurt. If you get down into your granny gear and your cadence starts to fall off, you're in trouble. It's going to burn. The BEST way to make it up a climb is spinning at a held cadence. If you can't you have two options - one, your cadence drops and you stay seated and mash up the hill best you can, or two, go UP to a bigger gear, stand up and start pounding. The best climbers do both - spinning and mashing - varying what's being used and how much. What helps? Not being heavy, having strong, trained legs, not rocking back and forth\maintaining posture, having a high VO2Max, and a high tolerance for lactic acid. Those things you can control and train for regardless of whether you have hills near you at home or not. If you have trained effectively with power (different subject), then the only variable of being on an actual hill that will be 'new' is the gearing.
5) Strategy - at the top of the hill as it starts to level, a novice climber will stay in the same gear, decrease cadence, breathe a sigh of relief, and let the acid burn off for a few seconds. Then, after they feel 'better', they'll re-engage, gear up, and start riding again. Not the best strategy. Start gearing up as the hill levels, so you're back in the big ring where you need to be once you crest.

*On the way down*
You might have climbed to a plateau, but eventually you're going to go down. Unfortunately this is where those that can only train on flats are going to get dusted. If you've never pushed your bike up near 50 mph in the drops or in aero, there's really nothing I can suggest. It's exhilarating, and if you're one of the lucky few, the most fun you can have with clothes on. However, most people find it to be one of the scariest things in the world.
A few obvious points:
1) A bike handles differently at high speeds. Your handlebars are of no use at high speed. Turn them and you'll fly. However, in no way am I saying to lock your body. Quite the contrary - you need to be loose and relaxed. Just don't try to steer with your arms or hands. Steering at high speeds is done leading with the head, and leaning with the body.
2) If it's straight and the pavement is good, you don't need brakes.
3) If it's straight and the pavement is bad and you are able pick a line on a rolling basis 50 yards ahead that avoids the potholes, you don't need brakes.
4) If you can't avoid potholes or can't see a line 50 yards in front you, you need brakes.
5) Braking power comes from the front brake. If this scares you or is new information, you need to practice using just the front brake. Do NOT grab the front brake full strength at full speed or you will fly. The term used is 'feathering the brakes', best described as using a light touch and feeling the brake against the track.
6) Pedal until you spin out. The goal is to go fast, and pedaling makes you go faster. Don't just tuck and go, take advantage of the descent until you can't anymore. As it levels out, start pedaling again and keep that well earned momentum.

I can't give you any pointers on fear, I personally don't experience it on the bike. Try to relax, look down the road, think of it like being in a windy car I sometimes even sing songs to myself, it's like the zen point of the ride.