SBR Utopia Season II - OPEN (Page 98)
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by rymac Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by rymac I have a Quarq and a PT. The thing I like the most about a crank based system is the ability to swap wheels. I have a wheel with an indoor trainer tire, another with my outdoor tire and my race wheels and I just swap them around. Do you have race wheels ? Any cons to the PT? I have a dedicated trainer wheel as well and just my stock Felt TTR2 wheelset for outdoor use. I have a rear wheelcover for the Felt rear and I am planning on buying a cheap front race wheel this winter. I alternate outdoor/indoor riding through the summer as well so that is a factor. I know there are going to be some additional costs with each so I am weighing those as well. I am a bargain hunter but do not want to overly sacrifice quality to save a few nickles. I've just gotten really good at tire changes. I only get the chance to ride outside on the weekends, and any other riding is trainer based. So to get my power readings I swap from trainer tire to road tire, prior to that I was using a dedicated wheel for the trainer. At this point, there is little to no aggravation at making the constant tire changes - and like I said, I've gotten good at it. But to Marc's point - you have to factor in the extra $100 for a new wheelcover if you get the PT. |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by GoFaster Originally posted by rymac Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by rymac I have a Quarq and a PT. The thing I like the most about a crank based system is the ability to swap wheels. I have a wheel with an indoor trainer tire, another with my outdoor tire and my race wheels and I just swap them around. Do you have race wheels ? Any cons to the PT? I have a dedicated trainer wheel as well and just my stock Felt TTR2 wheelset for outdoor use. I have a rear wheelcover for the Felt rear and I am planning on buying a cheap front race wheel this winter. I alternate outdoor/indoor riding through the summer as well so that is a factor. I know there are going to be some additional costs with each so I am weighing those as well. I am a bargain hunter but do not want to overly sacrifice quality to save a few nickles. I've just gotten really good at tire changes. I only get the chance to ride outside on the weekends, and any other riding is trainer based. So to get my power readings I swap from trainer tire to road tire, prior to that I was using a dedicated wheel for the trainer. At this point, there is little to no aggravation at making the constant tire changes - and like I said, I've gotten good at it. But to Marc's point - you have to factor in the extra $100 for a new wheelcover if you get the PT. Hah, I'm so bad that I don't even like to swap my rear wheel....let alone change the tire on it! Other than for race day, I think my crappy training wheels will stay on my bike. [Also have crank-based power -- a Quarq, which after I updated firmware, I like] |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by GoFaster Originally posted by rymac Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by rymac I have a Quarq and a PT. The thing I like the most about a crank based system is the ability to swap wheels. I have a wheel with an indoor trainer tire, another with my outdoor tire and my race wheels and I just swap them around. Do you have race wheels ? Any cons to the PT? I have a dedicated trainer wheel as well and just my stock Felt TTR2 wheelset for outdoor use. I have a rear wheelcover for the Felt rear and I am planning on buying a cheap front race wheel this winter. I alternate outdoor/indoor riding through the summer as well so that is a factor. I know there are going to be some additional costs with each so I am weighing those as well. I am a bargain hunter but do not want to overly sacrifice quality to save a few nickles. I've just gotten really good at tire changes. I only get the chance to ride outside on the weekends, and any other riding is trainer based. So to get my power readings I swap from trainer tire to road tire, prior to that I was using a dedicated wheel for the trainer. At this point, there is little to no aggravation at making the constant tire changes - and like I said, I've gotten good at it. But to Marc's point - you have to factor in the extra $100 for a new wheelcover if you get the PT. I've gotten pretty good at it too as a result. I'm think I could change a flat in a race pretty quickly if I had to. |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ligersandtions Originally posted by GoFaster Originally posted by rymac Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by rymac I have a Quarq and a PT. The thing I like the most about a crank based system is the ability to swap wheels. I have a wheel with an indoor trainer tire, another with my outdoor tire and my race wheels and I just swap them around. Do you have race wheels ? Any cons to the PT? I have a dedicated trainer wheel as well and just my stock Felt TTR2 wheelset for outdoor use. I have a rear wheelcover for the Felt rear and I am planning on buying a cheap front race wheel this winter. I alternate outdoor/indoor riding through the summer as well so that is a factor. I know there are going to be some additional costs with each so I am weighing those as well. I am a bargain hunter but do not want to overly sacrifice quality to save a few nickles. I've just gotten really good at tire changes. I only get the chance to ride outside on the weekends, and any other riding is trainer based. So to get my power readings I swap from trainer tire to road tire, prior to that I was using a dedicated wheel for the trainer. At this point, there is little to no aggravation at making the constant tire changes - and like I said, I've gotten good at it. But to Marc's point - you have to factor in the extra $100 for a new wheelcover if you get the PT. Hah, I'm so bad that I don't even like to swap my rear wheel....let alone change the tire on it! Other than for race day, I think my crappy training wheels will stay on my bike. [Also have crank-based power -- a Quarq, which after I updated firmware, I like] When I got my new bike I only had experience with my current road bike/components. Want to take out the rear wheel - easy, loosen the skewer (sp?), and the wheel easily releases. Bought my new bike at the Bike show and stood in the parking lot enduring an enormous amount of embarrasment because I coouldn't get the rear wheel off the bike to put it in the car. Finally needed to get assistance from passerby's. I quickly learned I had to move the rear derailleur to release the wheel. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Hey guys, back from hiatus from the forums if you even remember me. Was perusing the old mentor group. Ryan, I have a PT and it has been reliable and consistent. It is laced to a Jet 6. Friend of mine picked up Stages a couple months ago and likes it. It gives consistent readings and the price is right. Now that PT prices have come down it is hard to argue against it. I'd throw this into your consideration process as well... I ride my road bike a lot and my roadie and my TT bike have different crank lengths so I can't have one crank power solution. I swap the wheel back and forth. Not a huge deal. When I first bought it I thought I'd only be into triathlons but then started to like getting out with the roadies after awhile so probably wouldn't have gotten it laced to a Jet 6 but it is a versatile wheel so have been happy. Just something to think about. If you forecast out a couple years you want to make sure you are getting the best use out of it in the most situations. |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Question on trainer setup. Do you shoot for a level bike or a slightly raised front wheel? I recall either Jason or Ben - not to lump the roadies into one group! - saying (I think in another thread?) that they went for level as the bike just felt like it fit poorly when the front was raised. I'm going to try lowering mine to just level and see if the bike feels any better when indoors (just gettin' ready for the "i-word" this winter as I don't think I can avoid the drainer all year). Others? Matt |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by acumenjay Hey guys, back from hiatus from the forums if you even remember me. Was perusing the old mentor group. my roadie and my TT bike have different crank lengths so I can't have one crank power solution. Welcome back !! Did you intentionally go shorter cranks on the tri bike or intentionally go longer on the roadie ? If the first, it brings up a good point of using this opportunity to go shorter on the tri bike. I did notice P2Max does have a 165 version of their low cost model. I tried shorter cranks. I did nothing for me although I will probably experiment a little more. |
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Master ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by marcag Originally posted by acumenjay Hey guys, back from hiatus from the forums if you even remember me. Was perusing the old mentor group. my roadie and my TT bike have different crank lengths so I can't have one crank power solution. Welcome back !! Did you intentionally go shorter cranks on the tri bike or intentionally go longer on the roadie ? If the first, it brings up a good point of using this opportunity to go shorter on the tri bike. I did notice P2Max does have a 165 version of their low cost model. I tried shorter cranks. I did nothing for me although I will probably experiment a little more. Thanks! No, it just happens to be what came on my bikes. I never changed the cranks. I don't think shorter cranks do anything for me. I'm a fan of lower cadence riding when time trialing so wouldn't favor going to shorter cranks to spin more. I think the benefit to me would probably be more of an ability to get a little lower since your knees aren't coming up quite as high. Like you, I'd like to experiment more, but I mostly just get on the bike and ride it. In the future, I'd like the cranks to be the same though because in my mind it makes sense that if they are the same I am getting better crossover benefit when riding my road bike if that makes any sense....like I said it may be more in my head than any real difference a 172.5 vs 175 might have. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() It sounds like the cheapest option between PT and Power2Max is the Power2max since you wouldn't have to buy the wheel portion or the cover. I really see where Fred is coming from on the "buy something that's been around and well tested". For this reason I would personally stay away from Stages. While I don't know the history of Power2max they seem very well liked and some guys over on ST that are using them I would trust their opinions. Man... I wouldn't want to be in your shoes :-) EDIT : actually I would want to be in your shoes and get a new toy. Well, keep in mind I have not told my wife yet about this purchase!!
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by acumenjay Thanks! No, it just happens to be what came on my bikes. I never changed the cranks. I don't think shorter cranks do anything for me. I'm a fan of lower cadence riding when time trialing so wouldn't favor going to shorter cranks to spin more. I think the benefit to me would probably be more of an ability to get a little lower since your knees aren't coming up quite as high. Like you, I'd like to experiment more, but I mostly just get on the bike and ride it. In the future, I'd like the cranks to be the same though because in my mind it makes sense that if they are the same I am getting better crossover benefit when riding my road bike if that makes any sense....like I said it may be more in my head than any real difference a 172.5 vs 175 might have. Funny story.... First time I installed shorter cranks, I put them on wrong. Imagine one crank arm being at 6 o'lock and the other one should be at 12. Well I put the other one at 2 O'clock. So one at 6, one at 2. I started riding. "Wow....this is much harder."...."wow, shorter cranks make quite a difference". I got off thinking "I don't like shorter cranks". Then realized my mistake :-) I fixed it and I cannot really tell the difference and we are talking 172.5 to 165. |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by acumenjay Thanks! No, it just happens to be what came on my bikes. I never changed the cranks. I don't think shorter cranks do anything for me. I'm a fan of lower cadence riding when time trialing so wouldn't favor going to shorter cranks to spin more. I think the benefit to me would probably be more of an ability to get a little lower since your knees aren't coming up quite as high. Like you, I'd like to experiment more, but I mostly just get on the bike and ride it. In the future, I'd like the cranks to be the same though because in my mind it makes sense that if they are the same I am getting better crossover benefit when riding my road bike if that makes any sense....like I said it may be more in my head than any real difference a 172.5 vs 175 might have. Funny story.... First time I installed shorter cranks, I put them on wrong. Imagine one crank arm being at 6 o'lock and the other one should be at 12. Well I put the other one at 2 O'clock. So one at 6, one at 2. I started riding. "Wow....this is much harder."...."wow, shorter cranks make quite a difference". I got off thinking "I don't like shorter cranks". Then realized my mistake :-) I fixed it and I cannot really tell the difference and we are talking 172.5 to 165. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Thanks for all the input. I am still investigating the additional costs on both options. I think the wheelcover for the rear and the hassle of changing tires on the wheel for trainer to road and vice versa are it for the PT. I am not sure if I will need different chain rings with the Power2max or if I can just use the ones off my Ultegra. The second is whether it works with my Garmin 310xt. I would assume it does since it is Ant+ but it is not listed specifically in DC Rainmakers review. I am contacting Power2max on both of those issues. The last is how much of a pain in the it is going to be to install it. I may just have my LBS do it for $50-$100. The PT is dummy proof for the most part. |
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Elite ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by rymac Thanks for all the input. I am still investigating the additional costs on both options. I think the wheelcover for the rear and the hassle of changing tires on the wheel for trainer to road and vice versa are it for the PT. FWIW, I don't change the tire everytime it goes on and off the trainer. Generally I use the same tires for training outside that I do on the trainer. At the moment i have a Michelin Pro Race that I ride indoors and out with. Once the cold weather has fully relegated me to indoor riding I will put an old crap tire on that I would never ride outside with. Outside of that the only time I change the tire is for races. |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by axteraa Originally posted by rymac Thanks for all the input. I am still investigating the additional costs on both options. I think the wheelcover for the rear and the hassle of changing tires on the wheel for trainer to road and vice versa are it for the PT. FWIW, I don't change the tire everytime it goes on and off the trainer. Generally I use the same tires for training outside that I do on the trainer. At the moment i have a Michelin Pro Race that I ride indoors and out with. Once the cold weather has fully relegated me to indoor riding I will put an old crap tire on that I would never ride outside with. Outside of that the only time I change the tire is for races. Arend - Thats what I would likely do as well. I turn into a swearing sailor when I start changing tires, primarily the dedicated trainer tire really gets me worked up haha. |
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![]() Leaving for Kona in a few hours. Right now, weather seems typical. Probably looking at a high of around 84-86 and a real feel of around 90-95. |
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![]() Originally posted by Jason N Leaving for Kona in a few hours. Right now, weather seems typical. Probably looking at a high of around 84-86 and a real feel of around 90-95. Toasty! Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by Jason N Leaving for Kona in a few hours. Right now, weather seems typical. Probably looking at a high of around 84-86 and a real feel of around 90-95. Shudder..... Hope you have a GREAT experience. Matt |
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![]() Mine came without any instructions, I just turned on the 910, changed the bike settings to recognize a PM, calibrated it, and rode. There may be more to it than that.... As for testing, no, I've never had the guts to do an hour. Trainer or outside? |
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![]() I found that my best TTs came when I built up my power. Sort of like a negative split. Usually about 2% lower than overall average the first half. Sufficient warm up is also extremely important. I'd say 30 minutes if you were doing it outdoors and it's not hot, or at least enough to get into a good sweat. |
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Elite![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() |
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Elite![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() Originally posted by ChrisM Mine came without any instructions, I just turned on the 910, changed the bike settings to recognize a PM, calibrated it, and rode. There may be more to it than that.... As for testing, no, I've never had the guts to do an hour. Trainer or outside? Ditto - on both accounts... |
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