To go Compact or Not... (Page 3)
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2008-08-14 10:23 AM in reply to: #1603153 |
Pro 3903 Andover | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Aikidoman - 2008-08-14 11:16 AM Since the new bike COMES with the compact, I see no reason to spend the money up front to change it... I'd be willing to bet that the shop would swap it out, free of charge, for a standard crank as there is a big market for compact these days. (That's been my experience at least.) In fact, the shop I deal with will work with me to swap/change ANY component on a new bike. Of course, some cost may be involved if going from a lower level component to a higher level one--ex: Ultegra to Dura Ace. Edited by Cappy 2008-08-14 10:25 AM |
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2008-08-14 10:27 AM in reply to: #1603153 |
Not a Coach 11473 Media, PA | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Aikidoman - 2008-08-14 11:16 AM Or is it completely to the individual? This has my vote. Though it's probably still in a fairly narrow range (i.e., mashing at 50 rpm for 112 miles probably isn't good for just about anybody, nor is spinning at 130 rpm). I think the best advice is to try to get comfortable using a wide range of cadences and then find the tighter range that works best for you when riding steady for long periods. Then choose gearing that allows you to stay within that range as much as possible over the terrain/conditions you have to deal with. |
2008-08-14 10:27 AM in reply to: #1602881 |
Expert 606 Lakeville, MN | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... ball6135 - 2008-08-14 8:09 AM Silverman - I am switching to a compact crank this week... Living in the flat lands of minnesota and with the climbs there, I looked at the gear ranges and feel more comfortable with the higher RPM on some of the significant climbs that I will see at silverman. Do I know for sure it will help, but I do know that I am more confident.... I average 95-98 rpm on most rides around here... now, do I switch out everything (current FSA Gossamer) or just the chainrings??? $$$ Most standard cranks have a 130-135 bolt circle diameter (BCD). Most compact rings use a 110. I don't think there are any compact rings out there that use a 130 bcd, so you'll likely need to get a whole new crankarm w/ a 110 spider. Seems like a great time to upgrade that crank, and I've seen a number of deals on some FSA SL-K carbon cranksets. |
2008-08-14 10:27 AM in reply to: #1603084 |
Cycling Guru 15134 Fulton, MD | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... JohnnyKay - 2008-08-14 11:01 AM Because on some hills, if you are 'over-geared' then you are forced to use more power than you should in order to maintain any kind of reasonable cadence. So either you have to back off more on other sections of the course to recover or you fry your legs more than you should for the run. This matters for long course races on hilly terrain. If you have more gears (compacts, cogs...whatever) then you can find a reasonable cadence and maintain appropriate power while you go up the hills. Yes, you will climb slower. But you will also ride steadier throughout which should actually result in a faster overall speed. And set you up better for the run. Most of your post is true, but you're considering instantaneous speed versus speed over a whole course which is influenced by how you ride each section. If you can comfortably ride up the hills at very low cadences and not spike your power output too much or too often, then you can ride with 'bigger' gearing. If you have trouble doing so, then you are better off with 'smaller' gearing. You can get that through compacts, cogsets, blah, blah, blah... It's rider and terrain dependant. And no set-up is universally right or wrong or better or worse. 100% right and I agree with you on all of that. Adjusting your pace and effort via gearing allows you to maximize performance. No argument there. But it still goes back to, if someone is running out of gears on a hill and needs smaller gearing, then they are going to go slower, plain and simple. The implication that seems to be prevalent is that by changing to compact gearing an athlete is able to go faster on a course with the same amount of effort. That is completely wrong. All it does is to allow you to fine tune your gear ranges, which as you said can be done with a compact front, various cassettes in the rear (as Shane mentioned), or by changing your effort level and cadence with the ones you have. If someone rides a 2:45 HIM split with a 53/39 and an 11-23 they are not going to suddenly be able to ride a 2:30 by switching out to a 50/34 and an 11-21 on the same course. A 2:30 split requires an average wattage of ......... whatever. A 2:45 split requires less. It really is that simple. |
2008-08-14 10:34 AM in reply to: #1603206 |
Not a Coach 11473 Media, PA | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Daremo - 2008-08-14 11:27 AM The implication that seems to be prevalent is that by changing to compact gearing an athlete is able to go faster on a course with the same amount of effort. That is completely wrong. No, it's not completely wrong. It takes more 'effort' to spike your power to climb that hill and then ease back and recover than it does to ride at a more steady power. So it takes the same average power to ride a 2:45. But the 'steady' rider will have used less effort in getting there than the 'spiker'. Alternatively, the 'steady' rider could use the same effort as the 'spiker' and finish the course in under 2:45 (the average power would now be higher, of course). |
2008-08-14 11:14 AM in reply to: #1603234 |
Cycling Guru 15134 Fulton, MD | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... JohnnyKay - 2008-08-14 11:34 AM No, it's not completely wrong. It takes more 'effort' to spike your power to climb that hill and then ease back and recover than it does to ride at a more steady power. Yes, but that's assuming that you actually need to spike it to climb with it. Once again, we are going back to overall gearing selection and effort levels during the ride, which is NOT a compact specific thing. My ride at LP ....... 39/23 spinning at an average of around 80 - 85 going up the hills was a very easy effort for me. For others to put out that same level of effort (Z1 to Z2) may have required a different gear range to stay there, which is fine and good racing strategy. I certainly never spiked throughout the entire ride and stayed even. And I never needed an easier gear than what I had. In fact I rode conservative as hell by riding that gear, basically conversational pace. It is about effort and pacing. If you are geared out and REQUIRE extra effort and spike your power then it will come back to haunt you. If someone decides to go slower on the uphill portions, or spins more cadence, it does not mean that they will "make it up" on the flats or downhills because they saved something going up. Unless they exert more on the flat/downhill they are going to be slower overall. Edited by Daremo 2008-08-14 11:17 AM |
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2008-08-14 11:34 AM in reply to: #1603425 |
Not a Coach 11473 Media, PA | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Daremo - 2008-08-14 12:14 PM Yes, but that's assuming that you actually need to spike it to climb with it. Yes, that's my assumption on why some people can say they are faster with compacts yet ride easier. (an assertion you questioned) Once again, we are going back to overall gearing selection and effort levels during the ride, which is NOT a compact specific thing. Of course it's about gearing. That's all compacts are--different gearing possibilities. |
2008-08-14 11:40 AM in reply to: #1600588 |
Expert 934 FL | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Yall are making me wonder if I should not have just ordered a compact to replace my triple that is bent. I live in FL where it is flat but do ride some hills. On a few of them, I have been on the inner gear in the triple and the biggest gear on the rear and doing all I can to get up the hill at about 6-7mph. I thought that with my current fitness, using a standard double may present some issues on some hills and I really did not want to stay with the triple as it has not been a good experience due to loosing the chain. It also seems that doubles or compact doubles are more popular... but that may just be my perception. |
2008-08-14 11:47 AM in reply to: #1603084 |
Elite 2915 New City, New York | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... I think this got lost in the shuffle and bears repeating. Seems pretty simple (and accurate) to me.
JohnnyKay - 2008-08-14 11:01 AM It's rider and terrain dependant. And no set-up is universally right or wrong or better or worse. |
2008-08-14 12:46 PM in reply to: #1602968 |
Master 1826 | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Daremo - 2008-08-14 10:28 AM Again, going back to simple fact. If you use a compact front all you are doing is modifying your gear ranges. That's it, plain and simple. For everyone saying that they got faster and could ride easier with the compact cranks, please explain. See last paragraph of this post as to why ........ Because the one set of cranks were 170's the other 175's |
2008-08-14 12:54 PM in reply to: #1602968 |
Champion 16151 Checkin' out the podium girls | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Daremo - 2008-08-14 10:28 AM Again, going back to simple fact. If you use a compact front all you are doing is modifying your gear ranges. That's it, plain and simple. For everyone saying that they got faster and could ride easier with the compact cranks, please explain. See last paragraph of this post as to why ........ It is very simple. Whether you are pushing a 53/17 along at 100 rpms and going 24 mph or whether you are spinning a 50/15 along at 100 rpms to attain that same speed. you are STILL PRODUCING THE SAME RANGE OF POWER AND THE SAME LEVEL OF EFFORT. Aerodynamic resistance and friction do not change just because you change gear ratios. Psychological benefit? Sure, maybe. But it won't beat physics. Now, as to the bullsh-t argument that someone shouldn't run a 53/11 because they could never push it??? Those same people certainly can't push a 50/11 either. C'mon, what kind of crap is that??? The fastest pro level IM splits are still only in the 26 - 28 mph range. The fastest pro level oly. splits on a flat course are only in the 27 - 29 range. The f-cking TDF flat TT's are only in the 34 range and that would be spinning a 53/11 at around 95 rpms!!! And as an side, those guys typically run 54 or 55 up front. For those that are saying having a wider range or easier gears for climbing? Sure, that is an option and makes sense. But the reality is, if you cannot go up a hill at say 10 mph in ANY gear currently on your bike, all that changing out the gearing is going to allow you to do is spin an EASIER gear up the hill at a SLOWER speed. Changing to a smaller gear ratio is not going to allow you to climb any faster at the same level of effort, only spin an easier gear at a higher rate to go the same speed you were before. Ain't gravity grand??? It straight forward physics. You can push out "X" power. Aerodynamic resistance pushes back "Y" and friction from the road pushes back "Z." to get faster you have three choices - increase "X," decrease the affect of "Y" and reduce the amount of "Z" That's it. There's no other "magic" to it that allows you to go faster without addressing one of those 3 simple things. You had me at Hello |
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2008-08-14 2:51 PM in reply to: #1600588 |
Champion 6786 Two seat rocket plane | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not...
Here's the thing about "compact cranks"....It is the bolt circle diameter that makes a compact a compact, not the chainrings attached to it. You can run any gearing you want on the compact (110 BCD)...most of them come from the factory with 50-34, but you can put a 53/39 or whatever on the spider. The smallest inner ring you can put on a standard (130) bcd spider is a 38. That's what I like about the "compact" set-up. Additionally, with 10-speed cassettes available (from SRAM) in 11-26 and 11-28, and with an 11-25 available from Shimano (albeit at 105 level) What the compact spider offers is a much wider variety of potential set-ups, particularly on the low end of the spectrum. The ability to get near-triple low gearing without the issues associated with triples, plus no necessary loss of "big meat" makes the 130 bcd look like the odd-man out rather than the 110. |
2008-08-14 3:11 PM in reply to: #1604241 |
Expert 606 Lakeville, MN | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... ride_like_u_stole_it - 2008-08-14 1:51 PM
Here's the thing about "compact cranks"....It is the bolt circle diameter that makes a compact a compact, not the chainrings attached to it. You can run any gearing you want on the compact (110 BCD)...most of them come from the factory with 50-34, but you can put a 53/39 or whatever on the spider. Who makes a 53 ring for a 110 BCD? Seems like you'd get alot of flex under torque having that much outer metal (or even carbon) on a smaller spider. I dunno, but I've yet to see a 53 or bigger ring running on a compact spider... |
2008-08-14 4:27 PM in reply to: #1604308 |
Cycling Guru 15134 Fulton, MD | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Zipp Vumas use a proprietary spacing. I think you can get some for them. But then again, if your dropping $1,200 on cranks then you SHOULD get whatever you want on them! Oh wait ........ mine are on order (53/39 thanks) ............ |
2008-08-14 4:56 PM in reply to: #1604570 |
Expert 606 Lakeville, MN | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Daremo - 2008-08-14 3:27 PM Zipp Vumas use a proprietary spacing. I think you can get some for them. But then again, if your dropping $1,200 on cranks then you SHOULD get whatever you want on them! Shoooot, for that money, they better pedal themselves, so who cares about ring size and bolt spacing |
2008-08-14 8:02 PM in reply to: #1603203 |
Extreme Veteran 552 Minnetonka Beach, MN | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... cooutdoors - 2008-08-14 10:27 AM ball6135 - 2008-08-14 8:09 AM Most standard cranks have a 130-135 bolt circle diameter (BCD). Most compact rings use a 110. I don't think there are any compact rings out there that use a 130 bcd, so you'll likely need to get a whole new crankarm w/ a 110 spider. Seems like a great time to upgrade that crank, and I've seen a number of deals on some FSA SL-K carbon cranksets.Thanks!!!! I will take a look around and see... Cranksets are about the only thing that I haven't messed with on a bike! New challenge!!! |
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2008-08-14 8:04 PM in reply to: #1604570 |
Extreme Veteran 552 Minnetonka Beach, MN | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Daremo - 2008-08-14 4:27 PM Zipp Vumas use a proprietary spacing. I think you can get some for them. But then again, if your dropping $1,200 on cranks then you SHOULD get whatever you want on them! Oh wait ........ mine are on order (53/39 thanks) ............ We can all dream!!!! Those things look awesome!!!! unfortunately, I won't be seeing those on my bike any time soon. |
2008-08-14 8:21 PM in reply to: #1600588 |
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2008-08-14 9:27 PM in reply to: #1600588 |
Champion 9600 Fountain Hills, AZ | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... I'll wait to see any of you punks go under 5 hours on the bike and a sub 3:30 (not including the weak FL or AZ course) and then I will believe.. Edited by bryancd 2008-08-14 9:31 PM |
2008-08-15 7:40 AM in reply to: #1604308 |
Champion 6786 Two seat rocket plane | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... cooutdoors - 2008-08-14 3:11 PM ride_like_u_stole_it - 2008-08-14 1:51 PM Who makes a 53 ring for a 110 BCD? Seems like you'd get alot of flex under torque having that much outer metal (or even carbon) on a smaller spider. I dunno, but I've yet to see a 53 or bigger ring running on a compact spider...
Here's the thing about "compact cranks"....It is the bolt circle diameter that makes a compact a compact, not the chainrings attached to it. You can run any gearing you want on the compact (110 BCD)...most of them come from the factory with 50-34, but you can put a 53/39 or whatever on the spider. Here's a couple of sources for >50 tooth 110BCD rings: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings/110.html and http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CG408A06-Sugino+Standard+Chainring.aspx They are not all that hard to come by. I can't speak to the flex question, but I have to think that if you're tourqueing hard enough on the crank that you're flexing the rings, maybe you need to be using a lower gear... |
2008-08-15 8:02 AM in reply to: #1600588 |
10 | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... OK - I agree - moving gear ratios around is all you are doing with the compact set up - and this makes it easier to spin with higher cadence up a hill with less effort - but with the bike moving more slowly. But there may be other advantages to doing it this way than are at first obvious- I recently read some research about the effects of cadence on muscle type recruitment. We all have a mix of slow and fast type muscle fibres - the exact mix is mainly genetic - but can be modified a little by training. It appears that spinning a high cadence with lower effort can recruit slow twitch muscle fibres (ie long endurance but lower peak power muscle - the type most marathoners have most of). Mashing up the hills in a higher gear recruits increasingly more fast twitch fibres. These fibres are good for big power - but tire more quickly / build up lactate more rapidly (the ones sprinters have most of!). SO - by spinning up the hills (on a compact?) you may be giving yourself an advantage over the course of the whole race - you recruit a larger percentage of your power your from longer- lasting slow twitch muscle and are not tiring out the fast twitch muscle / bulding lactate. The end result might be a slightly slower bike leg - but probably a faster run - possibly faster overall race. (or - it may mean a slightly faster average bike leg - cos you didn't wear yourself out in the hills!) Well - that's my theory and (cos I am little and weak - and an ex marathon runner! ) I am sticking to it.
Triassic
Edited by triassic 2008-08-15 8:05 AM |
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2008-08-15 8:14 AM in reply to: #1604241 |
Elite 3779 Ontario | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... ride_like_u_stole_it - 2008-08-14 3:51 PM The ability to get near-triple low gearing without the issues associated with triples, plus no necessary loss of "big meat" makes the 130 bcd look like the odd-man out rather than the 110. Here's something that backs this up that I took off of SlowTwitch. ...::: 700C Wheel At 90rpm :::...
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2008-08-15 8:16 AM in reply to: #1604971 |
Elite 2915 New City, New York | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... PennState - 2008-08-14 9:21 PM You know, there is another way to get good at climbing hills.... climb more hills! As your fitness improves, you will find yourself climbing in an easier fashion... just sayin' Yup and for most those processes take years. I just prefer to enjoy as much of that time as possible... w/ my compacts |
2008-08-15 8:17 AM in reply to: #1605500 |
Cycling Guru 15134 Fulton, MD | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... Fast twitch fibers are the explosive power ones and are brought into play for hard sprints, short fast hill climbs, etc. Fast twitch A fibers are more of a "middle ground" and over time training in endurance sports many of those will morph into the same sort of function as slowtwitch fibers and make you a better and more efficient endurance athlete. But spinning versus mashing doesn't really use more fast twitch B fibers. They both use A and slowtwitch. The only place where B come into play is as I mentioned above, when you sprint and hammer hills. Think "explosive" with the B. There is little to no reason an AG triathlete in a non-drafting race should ever need to really use those on the bike. Next ...... |
2008-08-15 8:33 AM in reply to: #1605115 |
Not a Coach 11473 Media, PA | Subject: RE: To go Compact or Not... bryancd - 2008-08-14 10:27 PM I'll wait to see any of you punks go under 5 hours on the bike and a sub 3:30 (not including the weak FL or AZ course) and then I will believe.. Believe what?!?! IT'S JUST GEARING!!!!!!! I can't understand how we can go pages and pages on compact cranks. You don't see pages of debate about swapping an 11-23 cassette for a 12-27. It's the same kind of decision. Sheesh... |
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