TOTW - Things You Ought to Do (but often don't)

I had a learning experience this weekend.  After friends dealing with the chain noise from my drive train complained to the point that it got my lazy butt motivated to do something about it.  I put the bike on the stand only to learn that it was not a simple tweak of the front derailure that was needed ... but a whole new chain.

I had switched from an 11-23 tp a 12-27 rear cassette in preparation for a race late last season (Steelhead 70.3) and neglected to focus on chain length.  As a result, the too small chain did not have the slack necessary to have the rear dereailure in proper position (it was maxed out) and created extra tension that cause the chain to rub.  This occured the closer to the top of rear gos I got and was particularly prevalent in the top rear cog (easy/granny gear) while in the big chain ring and resulted in severe cross chaining rub against the front derailure. This is what created not only noise but friction.

I changed the chain out and found that I not only had a smooth drive train (smooth like buttah!) but also additional pedaling ease and power ... not only in the "stressed gears" but all of the rear cogs.

Lesson learned:

1) Changing out your chain after 2000 miles makes a real and marked difference in drive train and therefore pedaling performance; and,
2) Pay attention to chain length.

Now that the rainy season is behind us, it is time to take stock of your drive train to inspect the chain as well as rear and front cogs for wear.  At the very least, it is time to clean and lube the drive train.

There are ridiculous prices for both chains and rear cassettes right now ... and the impact you will feel on the bike will be immediate.

Any other things out there that you should do but normally put off too long ...?